Body Mounts

[NuBomb]

I know this has been asked, but I'll ask again. Within the next few months I finally get to start (Again) working on my 72 Blazer. I've heard the rubber mounts are better than the poly mounts (Due to squeeking). What do ya'll think and where did you get yours. Also, do the Manuals such as the $25 ones you can buy from vendors give instructions. Any info would be appreciated.

[bouncytruck]

I have a factory assembly manual. No instructions, part numbers, thread sizes, etc. It does have good illustrations that will help put things back together the correct way or see what a previous owner may have left off.

[NuBomb]

Thanks. I'll be ordering the factory assembly manual with my first parts order.

[vtblazer]

I just replaced my body mounts with the poly ones, I'd heard the same thing on the squeak issue. It was suggested that by coating them with anti-seize, the problem is solved, so that's what I did...we'll see if it works. The person who told me about it has had no problems to date.
One note...the set of poly's I got did not include any of the body bolts, if I ordered a set again, I'd try to find an entire kit that did include them being you'll want to replace the bolts anyway.

[Big J]

My opinion is that poly is perfect for suspension, not as much give as rubber so you get a better handling vehicle. As far as the body goes I'm using rubber. Its softer so it won't transmit as much vibration/harshness into the body. As far as poly lasting longer than rubber, rubber is going to last at least 25-30yrs. How long do you need it to last, lol. Just my 2 cents. Give Christians Classics a call 1-877-654-2287. Just got a price on a complete set front to back bolts and all. It was a pretty good price. Can't tell ya how much though, vendor-customer privilege,

[Yukon Jack]

I just went with rubber on my K5. I haven't seen any poly kits that included bolts.

[NuBomb]

Thanks.

Yukon, ya I haven't seen a poly kit that included the bolts, but I had a list of the bolt sizes given by Steve Chin over at CK5.

Big J, That is what I had heard about the poly ones, but I hadn't heard about the anti seeze. I planned on going with the rubber mounts, but just wanted some opinions. I'll give Christian's a call once I figure out what all I can get at one time.

[Gee_Emm]

I have just spent the past couple months trying to figure this out and I think I have it. There seems to be 2 qualities of rubber mounts. There is a 84 pc which includes everything for the whole truck, this one is made overseas and sells for about $150. Then there is a 70pc kit which has all the bolts and rubber for the whole body except for the rad mount, this kit is made in the USA and goes for about $200. Then there is the LMC kit which is a 84pc but sells for $99, I am not sure where in the quality chain this one fits in but I have not heard good things about the LMC rubber. So I decided I would opt for the more expensive kit with the USA rubber so I won't having to be replacing the rubber a few years down the road.

[Chris_T]

I've heard the same thing about the different grades of rubber. I managed to find a set (almost - no core support) of NOS rubber mounts that have been sitting in a beer case for years waiting to be put in my Blazer.

[71jimmy]

So, where do you find the good radiator/core support rubber mounts and bolts if you buy the good rubber kit without them? This is the next item I need to do to mine.

Big J, did you get the radiator/core support pieces in yours? How about a price range you got yours for.

[detroit72k5]

I just finished putting new Poly mounts from Chevy Duty on my 72 and have no squeak problems. They were excellent, it feels like a new ride. I'm assuming my previous mounts were original, because I could just tear them off the bolt they were so rotted, but I have seen a previous post either on here or coloradok5.com where the rubber mounts were really rough after only two years. My kit didn't come with bolts, but I used that previous post that had the bolt lengths and just picked up galvanized bolts from Home Depot and the lengths worked perfect. The biggest pain was just getting the old bolts out since mine were welded to the body, so I had to drill out the heads and knock the bolt down through the frame. The only ones that weren't welded were the radiator supports, but I had to move the radiator out of the way a bit to get them out and get the new ones in. After I had everything done I had a lot of body sag in the middle so I had to move the different thickness mounts around to straighten out the body. If you have any questions Jeremy or anyone, let me know, I just finished this project about a week ago,
Jed

[NuBomb]

Thanks. I hope to get it done within the next month or so. I'll save your name since I'm sure I'll have some questions.

[bouncytruck]

How hard is it to change the body mounts? Do you have to remove the whole body or can it be done one mount at a time? If your current mounts are bad and you've got body sag, will the new mounds fix the problem or will you just be tightening the whole thing down with the sag in place?

[vtblazer]

Do one side at a time, take out the drivers side bolts (5)...jack up the body, remove mounts, replace mounts, reinstall bolts, torque. Repeat

[Gee_Emm]

When you jack up your body put your parking brake on because the shifting of the cab may knock your truck out of gear, Also while jacking keep a close eye on the front edge of your door to end of front fender clearance, they might touch and chip your paint or bend some metal.

[LUV2XCLR8]

SPENT WEEKEND WITH TIM CHRISTIAN AND HIS FAMILY AT THE
SUPER CHEVY SHOW IN MEMPHIS, TN. HE TOLD AFEW72'S AND
I THAT POLY SQEAKED ON THE BODY MOUNTS BUT WAS GOOD
FOR ALL OTHER AREAS LIKE THE SUSPINSION STUFF. HIS $0.02

[vtblazer]

Good points, Gee_Emm. When I did mine the front clip was off
and the tranny was disconnected so I never thought to point those things out, thanks