![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 130
|
Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts
In The Ten Ring, Thanks for all the details. This does sound like an interesting but challenging project. What I am facing is that the cab may have rotated like yours, but for sure it is not sitting flat. The gap at the top of the right door is off so much that there is no way you can adjust the hinges. It is just too elongated. It looks like at least one corner will have to be shimmed quite a bit. Maybe as much as 3/8" but won't really know until we start. At least we have a lift to pick it up and move it around.
Was looking at Classic Heartbeat along with some others as a source for the bushing kit. If you are happy with what they sent you, just may go with them. Did you get Poly bushings? Interesting about the bolts. We just happen to have a grinder so that shouldn't be too bad. For the lube to loosen rusted bolts, I like PB Blaster but as you say, there are many that work. So my overall plan for the winter is to pull the front clip to do the body mounts (all of them). Align the doors to the cab, put the clip back on and align the front end starting at the doors. The cab will have to be shimmed to align with the bed. Right now it is about 1/2" low. When measuring from the frame to each side both the cab and bed about 3/4" to 1/2" too far towards the driver side. So a good amount of time just getting all the parts lined back up. The passenger door hits the fender when opening with a varying gap from about 3/4" when measured to the top of the door frame. If the frame didn't look so good, I would suspect that at one time it had been in a major wreck. Thanksgiving weekend is set aside for some front end work and swapping out the gears, so probably will do this over a couple weekends sometime before Christmas. Don't want to rush too much. Work a bit, have a cigarette break, drink a beer, work some more... ![]() I'll start a thread for these projects, trying to document as they progress. Not really good at pictures, but will try to have a few. I do appreciate your offer for advice and will take you up on that. Please forgive the dumb questions as this is my first time replacing body mounts and then just wait for the body work questions... ![]() Thanks, David
__________________
72 Chevy C10 383/465 69 Corvette convertible 454/650 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 6,427
|
Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts
I went with rubber bushings. I had been told poly bushings are too hard, you end up with a rougher ride, and they make noise.
Someone else will weigh in (hopefully) but I would think you'd have to start with the cab and then move into the front clip shimming. Your frame may have twisted at some point.....that's at least possible. Now we really need someone more knowledgeable than me! ![]() PB Blaster should work, it's the most popular. I only used Zep 45 since I have a case of it (used to sell the stuff and they stopped giving sales reps samples, I had to buy my own stock and use that for samples!.....company was going retail and laid off a bunch of us before I could find another job. It was the beginning of the Recession, just a bad time to be in sales). I'd just take my time on the nuts....I hit them with Zep 45 and Zep Twister for a couple of weeks, each time I went into my garage for something else. *Any time you get under a vehicle wear safety glasses. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|