AD cab weight

[8man]

As the title says, does anyone know what the cab weighs? I'm building a dolly and was thinking about how much weight it should handle.

Thanks.

[MARTINSR]

I don't have the number for you, but it isn't much. Here is a cart I made with a chunk of an old frame and wheels from Harbor Freight. I use the trailer dolly from Harbor Freight to roll it around. I ended up welding the jack stands to the cart. DAMN I am glad I did this. I would have never done it if I hadn't seen so many guys on this forum with carts, it makes things sooo much easier.

I was lucky to have a junk frame available to cut up. That gave me JUST what I needed, it's bolted down on the factory mounts keeping it all straight as I cut and weld it up. It will now bolt right on the stock frame without an issue.

Brian

[AZbent]

Sorry no pictures. I made my dolly out of a couple of 2x6 and some inflatible casters from HF. If I keep the tires aired up, then I can move it around by myself with no problems. I drag it out of the garage every now and then just to do a good cleaning.

[mr48chev]

I'm going to say well under 400 lbs for the bare cab. I've manhandle them into the back of my pickup or a pickup box trailer by myself before. Can't do that anymore but did it quite often when I was in my 30's and 40's.
I've got a slightly longer section of frame as a dolly with wagon wheels on one end and casters on the other. That trailer dolly trick is a great idea. My frame section came from a hacked up burb frame that someone had taken front suspension parts off with a torch.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Over on the stovebolt site, they have a DIY dolly made from an old wood pallet. Easy to come buy and usually free. Just throw some casters on it and your good to go.

[Jesse Z]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

I was lucky to have a junk frame available to cut up. That gave me JUST what I needed, it's bolted down on the factory mounts keeping it all straight as I cut and weld it up. It will now bolt right on the stock frame without an issue.

Brian

Serves not only as a dolly, but also a jig - brilliant!

[47 Fasttoys]

I would guess 315# bare cab. Not a bad idea to build your dolly at final ride height. It helps if you want to set up engine or fender ride height.
Rob

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

I don't have the number for you, but it isn't much. Here is a cart I made with a chunk of an old frame and wheels from Harbor Freight. I use the trailer dolly from Harbor Freight to roll it around. I ended up welding the jack stands to the cart. DAMN I am glad I did this. I would have never done it if I hadn't seen so many guys on this forum with carts, it makes things sooo much easier.

I was lucky to have a junk frame available to cut up. That gave me JUST what I needed, it's bolted down on the factory mounts keeping it all straight as I cut and weld it up. It will now bolt right on the stock frame without an issue.

Brian

Hehe, that cart looks like its heavier than the cab MARTINSR

I used 2x4s and four 3" castor wheels from HF. Had no problems with the weight of the cab

[8man]

I decided to build a dolly I can use on other vehicles. I have a buddy who has a 64 Impala with the front clip on it, they lifted the body complete with interior off the chassis to do work. I saw it and decided to build a dolly that will handle just about anything.

I found this design on line and with the right size steel tube, I can expand it or contract it to fit whatever vehicle I want.

IMG_1794 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then, I bought some more steel so I can flip it up on one side using some outriggers. When I get it built I'll post some pics.

[8man]

Ok, it's kind of a gorilla for a body dolly, but it should let me roll the cab onto the back, front or either side by turning the cab on the dolly. Plus, it will expand to handle any car body I want to put on it, not sure it will "lay over on the back" for other cars, but it works for the 2 AD cabs I have.

First some fabrication.
IMG_1802 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

A little more fabrication and the corners are ready
IMG_1807 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Here it is set up for the 48 cab.
IMG_1820 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Here it is under one of the cabs ready for set up.
IMG_1822 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Paint will have to wait because I want to get started on this cab.
IMG_1824 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Here it is with the cab on it.
IMG_1825 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

It rolls great, but it does take 2 people or an engine hoist or gantry crane to roll it over, but it does work as hoped.

Since it expands/contracts in all directions, I can turn the cab on it so I can lay it over in any direction. Should make working on the sheet metal easier. That rust removal starts next.

[mr48chev]

Lots of ideas that all work. If I was doing a lot of welding on the cab and especially cab floor I'd want metal rather than wood though. Wood is great for storage and being able to move the cab around the shop but I'm always afraid of fires.