57 GMC 496 Canyon Carver

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

-Lowered

55 degrees in Canada, is that typical for this time of year?
My pour is set for 9:30 AM 15.5 yards with hot water. I got a great guy doing the work, all I need to do is keep it from freezing till Saturday AM.

Got it covered

I've got lots of red pex left over, any body use pex for piping air lines?

Good / Bad or what? I'm going to do a copper moisture separator. So chime in on your guys choice.

NC

PS you may be in the great white north, I'm in Clear and Still Idaho. Clear up to your A$$ and Still snowing.

I have no info on Pex for air lines, however, is there some reason you are using copper for your separator vs black pipe? If you had it already I get that, otherwise seems like an unnecessary expense. My black pipe setup has been in use for 7 years in a very humid climate, and I would venture to say it will probably outlast me in the shop.

[rapid49]

I used pex for my air lines . It is just as easy as PVC but much safer.

[lower50's]

Average this time of year is closer to 35-40*. How did the pour go no troubles? I don't see why you can't use pex for air line.

[Nut Case]

Lowered

I have surplus copper, I have no problem "sweating" copper fittings.
The pour went well, concrete supplier did not arrive until 10 Am, all went well the last truck went home with about a 1/3 yard in the barrel. The south side of the pad is 6" from the fence, so it is shaded and took longer to set. After all the strike joints were done and a light broom, wait 2 hrs and cover with orange blankets and turn out the lights.

Next focus is membrane the exterior install windows and vinly siding tim faciA. then wireing, sheet the walls with waffer paint and rock on,

buy the way how do I move photos from a smart phone to this forum? Where do I get fittings that will mate the pex to conecting

[lower50's]

You should be able to upload pics direct to forum. Up here we have these fittings called Sharkbite. It is a push lock fitting that can be used on pex or copper, very nice product. Or you can use a sweat in pex barb.
Glad your pour went well.

[ptc]

NC - looks like your "Canyon Carver" thread is turning into a BUILDERAMA thread with all you shop builders going at it during the wrong time of the year!

Thats going to be my next project too I think... the little interior home projects are kinda done with 2 bathrooms, a laundry, a pantry, a bar and the patio all done - it will be time to start on the EXPANDED garage/shop in the spring time and our office remodel at the house now.

My 94 yr old dad - has been an architect for 75% of that time is coming to visit and draw me some plans, he still loves it so much (and he works cheap)! ---

Enjoy!!!

Post up some pics of all this stuff you are doing - you know... "It didnt happen unless there are pics of it!"

[Nut Case]

ptc

pm me your cell number and I'll happily text photo's and provide proof.

My energy is directed to the completion of my "shed" when that is far enough along. I'll take the time move photo's from phone to computer and figure how to up load to this forum.

At this stage I consider that computer time a clock sucker and will focus on the completion of the shed.

Keep on keepin on

NC

PS Lowered has photo's that I texted him on his cell. I promise not to put your phone number on the truck stop restroom wall in Emigrant Pass.

[Nut Case]

Walls framed, trusses up and squareD and sheeted and shingled. Exterior walls have been water proofed with poly plastic. Windows and man door installed. Caulking the walls where ever there is a sheeting butt joint in the sheeting, doing HU 1 truss anchors. Lots of chalking to stop drafts.

Then on to drilling for the rough electrical, pull cable make up boxes, then get C of O.

Ill try to load photos the next time I up date. hoping for better weather, but since Iam a one man show, it takes what ever time it takes.

An tips on the electrical system for what ever would be welcome.

Keep on Keepin on

Nut Case

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

Walls framed, trusses up and squareD and sheeted and shingled. Exterior walls have been water proofed with poly plastic. Windows and man door installed. Caulking the walls where ever there is a sheeting butt joint in the sheeting, doing HU 1 truss anchors. Lots of chalking to stop drafts.

Then on to drilling for the rough electrical, pull cable make up boxes, then get C of O.

Ill try to load photos the next time I up date. hoping for better weather, but since Iam a one man show, it takes what ever time it takes.

An tips on the electrical system for what ever would be welcome.

Keep on Keepin on

Nut Case

Nice Tips put way more 110V outlets than you think you need and double that number near your workbench/ work area.
All my 110V outlets are 20A and I ran a 20A breaker for each wall worked out great.

[dsraven]

how big is your shed?
my electrical system for garage-24x30-10ft ceiling-2 big doors and 1 man door-cold climate
-check home depot etc for a deal on the panel with breakers already in. possibly cheaper that way. you may need to buy some additional ones as well but it's a start. my shop breaker panel is in the shop and has as many circuits as the house has
-wire it like a kitchen so the plugs are split circuits. then you can plug in 2 power hogs and not blow the circuit
-install the plugs just a bit higher than 4 ft (then floor jacks or parts boxes can be placed anywhere around the perimeter) so they can be easily reached even if you lean a sheet of plywood against the wall. place plugs every 8 ft so you need less cords. -install a 20 amp plug on each side wall 1/2 way from front to rear for those heavy duty tools like a table saw or whatever
-wire in a thermostat, wire to where the heater will likely be, and install a box even if there is no heater yet
-install outside lights and plugs on each exterior wall. switch each ext light separately
wire in some lights in the attic if you plan to store stuff up there some day
-run a string of lights down each wall and down the center, plus across the front where the bench will be. switch them separately. if using fluorescents have a regular bulb socket somewhere near the entrance door so if you are only going in the shop for something quick you don't need to turn on all the big lights, saves on ballasts etc in the long term
-run the wire for an rv plug on the outside if applicable
-run wire and plug for a welder somewhere in the front middle so access from anywhere. try not to place it under the workbench unless you plan to extend it out nfor access
-install a receptacle somewhere near the man door with a usb plug in it for the phone charger. place backing for shelf hangers as well
-run wire for a compressor on both front corners and make it oversized for the amperage of a larger compressor in the future, if that is where your plan is to have the compressor placed, so if you change the floor plan around later you have options. also, if it is at the other end of the shop, you may need to squeeze past stuff to turn the compressor on/off. if heating the shop try to place the compressor somewhere in the blower path to warm the unit up when the heat comes on, if you turn the heat off overnight
-install attic hatches front and rear so you can store stuff up there if needed (false floor in mine at 18" above ceiling and blown in insulation. handy). if you plan to finish the cieling
-run the air inlet for the compressor into the attic with a filter on it up there. becomes a lot less noisy in the shop (assuming you finish the ceiling and insulate)
-run air lines across ceiling at the front with a couple drops for the workbench, then down each side at least 1/2 way with drops in the center of the bay(s) have an airline to the shop big door
-if you plan to finish the walls with drywall think about a strip of treated wood about a foot tall around the bottom. then if it gets wet on the floor the drywall won't leach up the water. try not to sheet the walls with plywood on the inside, it is flammable and burns hot. metal siding on the inside would be an option I would think about if building another shop
install backing for shelves or cupboards etc before sheeting the walls. think about if you ever plan on installing air hose reels or cord reels in the future as well. they would need backing