Engine Dilemas and pitfalls

[stringpickin]

Hello and good day. Any input?? Hope all is great!

My Edelbrock EFI conversion was to take place during a head gasket repair. Well, my mechanic called me today to inform me of a 3" horizontal crack in the block about 1/2" below bottom edge of the valve cover and in the middle of the engine. So,, 65K on a nice running 383 and I pretty much have to tank the engine. Looks as though it froze one time. I have always had 50/50 mix and although I go skiing and the truck has seen 15 degree weather, I cannot figure out when it froze. I think it was a bad block to begin with, and had previously been frozen and with being put in to service as a rebuild, it merely made it open up after a decade...

Anyway, next year I was going to do the 700r4 conversion. But I had always told myself if the engine had to come out of the truck than I would do the 700r4 then. So now is not a good time because I now I have to buy a Motor.. And that is a minimum of 3K for a quality local built 383, or the GM performance engine that is $4100... Yea, Chevy makes a 340 horse 383 with roller cam, 9; 1 with vortec heads. Doesn’t that sound nice??

Common sense says the that a local built motor done by a respected machinist and engine builder would be a fine fine motor.. But then to have the newest technology in the Brand New GM 383 is hard to refuse. Even though once I get the Edelbrock EFI on there, I bet I would hardly notice a difference..

If it was just the 1100 bucks more for the engine, then not to bad. But because I intend on doing the 700r4 conversion I have some throw away money by going to the GM motor.

The issues are, I need a new flywheel because the newer blocks have single piece rear main seal. The flywheels are different. I have to pay 300 bucks for this flywheel.. Now consider that I have to replace the clutch unless it was fairly new. I have to replace that. 200 bucks for plate, disc, bearing so as to make sure if a tranny conversion gets put off I have a good strong clutch in this thing.

Also, the EFI kit that I have already purchased is for the older style heads. So that would have to go back and cost me 300 more for the kit that is designed to work with vortec heads.

So, not to mention the hassle, to go to the GM motor it costs me $800 bucks plus the 1100(over a local rebuild motor). a $1900 dollar difference. The only think I get to keep out of the upgrade to the GM motor if I don't do the 700r4 now is the 300 bucks that I would have had to spend for the vortec EFI Kit.. So a net loss of 500 bucks right off the bat.

whutcha think?

[trukman1]

What plate, disc, bearing? If your going to an auto it'll use a flexplate and torque converter and no throwout/pilot bearing. The automatic stuff should be gotten with the tranny anyway. Now as to the crack, if you check the yellow pages of any large town you should be able to find a cracked block repair facility. Sometimes they can fix'em and sometimes not but I'd sure check it out. I've had friends have theirs repaired and had no problems even though I thought I'd never do it until I saw how well it worked for them. Experienced shops can tell you right away if it can be repaired...If they guarantee it I'd try it, if not then I wouldn't. My .02 cents worth. Bye!

[Kman]

I had the same type of crack on a 350 I was rebuilding, cracked in the valley at #8 cyl, this engine did not freeze but we knew that it did over heat, anyway it was not repairable so I bought a used block from the machine shop for $150 plus machine work and swaped all the good parts from the bad engine.
kman

[stringpickin]

Hey Truckman,, yes, already checked, it is not repairable.. thanks, also,, the pressure plate and disc I was talking about was what I need to buy and then throw away if I do'nt do the 700r conversion now, when I do the conversion??
Thanks Kman,, yea, she is cracked beyond repair.. I sure hate the idea of all that work and putting used pistons and rings in a difl. block and etc. when It is so costly to get back down there again in the near future. you know, when I need to rebuild the engine in what,, 65K. lots of risk involved in doing that if you are paying someone to do the labor, you agree?? thanks,

[busterwivell]

I think I like what Kman suggests. Freshen up your parts with a different block and do your 700R4 conversion and you should be good to go (on the cheap)

[Kman]

I would use the same pistons just put in a new set of rings and all new bearings and gaskets shouldn't be more than 3-400 dollars in parts , but if you have to pay someone to do the labor it will add some bucks
Kman

[stringpickin]

Well here is the scoop. When I built my engine, I did it the traditional way. I picked up a 350 block, a 400 crank and rods and flywheel, and built the 383 with a quality engine rebuild kit. Since then, it has become apparent that the slightly shorter Rod length of the 400 rod causes a tilt to occur to the pistons while in motion because of the angle caused by the to short of rod. So this now explains why my 383 readily went up to oil usage of about a quart every 3000 miles and remained there. I always wondered if I broke it in to hard or what. Well, now I know, bad geomotry.. Now they use a 5.7 inch Rod instead of the 400 rods that come in under 5.5 if I remember correctly. So, to take my crank and rods and pistons and grind another block to accept the stroker setup is not wise. Oil user fromt he get go, and not to mention half worn out as it is. So my shopping landed me at a company called Smeding Performance, which came highly recomended to me from Edelbrock Tech Support.. I opted to purchase from them instead of buying the GM 383 motor with Vortec heads. The engine from Smeding is completely brand new, new GM block, Eagle Crank and Rods, Federal Moguel Pistons, New Pro-Action Heads with Manley Valves, Meller Oil Pump, Cloye Roller chain set, timing cover, Oil pan, dampner, new flywheel, and completely blue printed and balanced for 3950.. Pricy because unexpected expense, but bang for the buck, what a motor. I am a bit excited.. with the EFI I could be producing 370 or more horses. And the bottom line is, all kinds of torque.. So, I have a good running 383 with a cranked block for sale.. let me know if interested..

[neonlarry]

Kim knows his stuff pretty well, I think you will be happy with that motor. With your old 383 about all you would have been able to reuse would have been the crank anyway. Like you said short rods cause too much cylinder wall wear so you would have had to replace block, rods, pistons plus machine work. By the time you got finished you would be close to what you paid for the engine you just bought.

[stringpickin]

Hey, thanks for letting me know you have confidence in Kim and Smeding Perf.. 4350 bucks including tax is a lot of money to lay down for anything, let along something as important as a mill for the ol chevy.. lol.. Nice to know he and they com recomended. Supposed to get it by the end of next week.. keep you updated on how it goes. I have a lot of things going on besides the EfI conversioin.. new brake lines except for rear, new vacuum assist, master cylnder, and proportioning valve. Rostra Cruise Control, New air conditioning rebuild, Conversioin to Flexalite twin electric fan, complete new wiring harness, complete rebuild of wing windows and conversion to electric windows. , So with the EfI conversion and then turning in to the need for a new engine, what a project. and extra 4.5K I didn't figure on, but I can't stop the other projects now, I have all of the stuff sitting in my living room. I certainly couldn't return it when it is so close to being put on.. could I?