Pertronix Ignitor

[Snake72]

Anyone have experience with the Ignitor series to retrofit the factory distributor? Better to go with gm HEI? Engine is fresh 383 that hasnt been fired yet. Plug wire recommendations welcome as well

[Ironhorse]

I have the Petronix ignition system in my '71 4x4. Being a 4x4 the engine sits much closer to the firewall with not much room left for the big GM HEI distributor. Used my original GM points distributor and cap for the conversion. LOOKS to be a original points distributor at first glance but I also used the Petronix Flamethower coil which shows all may be not be all as it seems. Been in there almost 2 1/2 years, no problems of any sort. Have heard of some people having problems but I have had none at all. Seems that is due mostly to not having a full 12 volts of power going to the distributor. Replaced all the plug wires with just a good set from local parts house. Just my experience, hope that helps.

[Coley]

Yep, I've run a few of them in both my SBC trucks and my 250-6cyl '66.
I've never had a problem with them and I like that I can keep my original distributor.
They are pretty straight forward to install.
As for the coil...I've run both the original coil and a pertronix coil and I don't see any real measurable difference but my engine is pretty stock.
I fully agree with Ironhorse about making sure you have at least 10-12 good volts to the coil...so check your original coil wiring.
Noting that the original system was designed to deliver less than 12 volts to the coil, probably something closer to 8-ish volts, to keep the points from burning out.
I went through this issue this past year and ended up running a new wire to the coil.

If you like the factory look, the pertronix is a great way to go.

All good
Coley

[Jcfcamaro]

I put the whole distributor and coil they make in my 67 rs/ss camaro . Works great and looks factory. I know the HEI works great too but just doesn't look right to me.

[Snake72]

Great this is what I was hoping to hear. I'd like to keep the stock look but dont really want to keep the points. I'll probably get their coil as well. If I am under 10 volts to coil, do I run a larger gauge wire from original location?

[brown7373]

Which Pertronix are you going to use, I, II or III? I have used I's on numerous older cars and my current 72 Cheyenne with no problems. Some for 15-20 years. And I have never run a 12 volt wire. I talked with Pertronix years ago and their tech department said a 12 volt was required for the III and in some instances on the II but not necessary on the I. I have used both stock and Flame Thrower coli also, and saw no difference.

I have used the Pertronix I because it looks factory and performs like brand new correctly adjusted points all day, every day for long periods of time with no wear and no adjustments.

[Snake72]

Had been planning on Pertronix I as I dont really need the features of the newer versions like rev limiters. I suppose if the voltage is way under 10 i'll run a new wire, easy enough to do while the front clip is off. Thanks for the replys!

[HO455]

The original Pertronixs I is basically bullet proof the others not so. The company changed owners after the original had become a success. The new owners designed the other models and they aren't as robust.

[Rich69shortfleet]

I have had the Ignitor I system in my Chevelle for close to 20 years, never a problem. On the wagon I used their billet distributor with the Ignitor II system, been in there for 7+ years without a problem. Both have Pertronix coils. The Ignitor I system also worked fine with my stock coil. In that car I retained the resistor wire and never ran a separate wire and never had a problem. The wagon got a new wiring harness with no resistor wire and gets 12v. The truck has an HEI and I've had trouble with it from time to time, but then it was a well used unit. Even though I rebuilt much of it when I first installed it I've lost a few ignition modules and have had to rebuild just about every aspect of it over the years but it still burns out a module often enough that I always carry a spare in the truck. It previously did not have a full 12v which may have contributed to the issues, but it now has a full 12v. No problems for the past 8 months or so and at this point everything but the distributor body is new.

[Snake72]

Rich, I clicked on your link to your 65 Chevelle...Beautiful car, great history!

Took the advice, just ordered the Ignitor I, coil, and their factory look flamethrower plug wires. Thanks all for the responses

[Rich69shortfleet]

Originally Posted by Snake72

Rich, I clicked on your link to your 65 Chevelle...Beautiful car, great history!

Took the advice, just ordered the Ignitor I, coil, and their factory look flamethrower plug wires. Thanks all for the responses

Thanks for the kind comment on the Chevelle.

As far as the Ignitor I, just be sure to follow their directions carefully when it comes to setting the gap between the ignition pulse ring and the pickup coil. If your distributor has a lot of up and down movement you do need to pull it and shim it until you limit that movement to stock specs as mentioned in the instructions. Too much up and down movement and the pickup coil will not read the ring properly and it can misfire. You of course also don't want the gap so tight that the ring can physically touch the pickup coil.

Given the long reach to the distributor in our trucks, it would be a lot easier to set up the Pertronix if you pull the distributor but you CAN do it with the distributor in the engine. Again, just make sure you check the gaps appropriately and you'll be all set. There are a few tiny little nuts and washers involved as well as running a few wires and that can be difficult to manage given the long reach to the distributor and the dark spot the distributor is in.

[Snake72]

Yep I watched a set up video on how to shim for ring and pick up clearing, seems pretty straight forward but I'll find a way to mess something up haha.

Pulling the distributor will be no problem, set the initial timing at #1 TDC and set it in but the front clip is still off, access is easy yet. Still need to finish carb rebuild and hook up all the wiring/plumbing/exhaust etc before firing but its getting closer. The truck is 2 hours away at my father in laws shop so unfortunately I cant tinker every day. I'd probably be divorced if it was at my house...

Just put the cab on this weekend, nice sight to see!

[OregonNed]

As mentioned by others, mine has worked perfectly. I recently cut new 8mm spark plug wires for my engine, and the looks is much better than odd ball lengths as before.

[Mike C]

I ran one on a 240z I had for nearly 15 years. I did have one failure after 10 years or so and replaced it with no further issues. And I think it’s a great choice where there is limited availability of new parts. And now the BUT...

Your truck distributor is anywhere from 45-50 years old if original and chances are it is not as tight as it was. This will make controlling the gap a possible concern as well as being able to control advance.

This is where the HEI excels. You can buy a complete one aftermarket for the price of the ignitor itself. And have the ability to tailor your advance cure and it is all new parts. And when the module fails (it’s even odds on electrical parts whether they fail or don’t over a decade of use/no use IME) they are available at any parts store without having to order/ship.

True on a 4x4 clearance is tight (I put an MSD ready to run in my Jimmy 20 years ago before all the small cap Chinese stuff existed) but it will fit.

I have no aversion to the Skip White/eBay/Amazon distributors and I own several. But my latest have both been MSD StreetFires because the come with the same melonized gear as the more expensive MSD stuff so they are compatible with hydraulic roller cams. It cost no more to get the MSD than buying the off brand and buying a melonized gear.

[brown7373]

Rich69, your comment about shimming the shaft is spot on! I believe it is the single most reason why some people say the Pertronix is a problem. It's not difficult to pull the distributor and remove the gear and shim it, but failure to have the gap within specs will cause the engine to sputter or shut off because it won't get any spark at higher rpms, as the shaft raises up (as it is supposed to do).