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Old 04-20-2004, 01:14 PM   #1
Lobo'74
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Move V8 to V8 location?

My 350 is mounted in the I6 location. What is required to move it forward to the "real" V8 location? I've seen this mentioned before, but can't find it.

I tried a search on the board and came up negative.

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2004, 01:47 PM   #2
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Moving isn't too bad just unbolt and slide everything forward. However, if you are running a stick, you'llneed to redo the shift (column) and clutch linkage. Automatic you'll probaly need different shift linkages. Not sure, but you may need a different throttle linkage rod. The biggie will be redoing your driveshaft for the additional length. I haven't dealt with the two piece drive shafts much, and seeing yours is a long bed I am assuming that is hat you have. You might be able to get by just swapping the front shaft.
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Old 04-20-2004, 02:14 PM   #3
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THAT SOUNDS LIKE AN AWFUL LOT OF WORK FOR ABSOLUTLEY NO GAIN. MAYBE I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND THE BENEFITS. COULD SOMEONE ENLIGHTEN ME??? I'VE BEEN INSTALLING V-8s IN THE INLINE SIX LOCATION FOR YEARS. JOHN
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:13 PM   #4
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tight fit

Its a little tight trying to work around the distributor area. It would also put my fan blades into the shroud instead of 2" away from the shroud. Also, I tend to think that if GM designed the V8 to sit 2" forward there must be a good engineering reason why. Corporation do not spend extra money for little or no benefit.

Those are the reasons I'm thinking about it. Doesn't mean I'll change it any time soon - have some steering and rust issues to try and fix first.

It may well be there is no compelling reason for me to go to the trouble of moving it forward -
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:30 PM   #5
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You may have to re-do some of your exhaust too...the tranny crosmember will be moved forward, and you may have pipes there.
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:34 PM   #6
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I agree with junkyard John on the sb in I 6 position. the dist does fit a little tight,which some guys dont like. as far as the space issues on the fan /radiator, you can opt for the waterpump, pullies, & accessories from a 73 up truck to help the problem. Also , you willl need the radiator hoses, & if you still have the curved neck in the lower radaitor, you will need to swap it to use the later hoses. good luck, crazyL
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:36 PM   #7
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Welcome back crazy longhorn.....been awhile since i've seen you around!
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:45 PM   #8
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Thanks for the welcome.....I have been off line for a while, but have had lots of time for wrenches & fab on the old chev. Im back to work in the muffler shop, so ia have beeen keeping fairly busy. Its good to see some "familiar faces"
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:54 PM   #9
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HMMMMMM ...... I KINDA LIKE THE WEIGHT TRANSFER , & THE ADDED TRACTION OF SMALL BLOCKS IN THE 6 CYL. POSITION. THE HEI DIST. IS A LITTLE TIGHT BUT NOT UNWORKABLE. AFTER WORKING ON G.M. VEHICALS MOST ALL OF MY LIFE, I CAN'T SAY THAT ALL G.M.s DESIGN OR ENGINEERING IDEAS ARE THE SMARTEST, OR DESIGNED WITH MY WELL BEING & EASE OF WRENCHING ON THESE VEHICALS BEING TOP PRIORITY. WERE ALSO TALKING ABOUT 37 YEAR OLD TECHNOLOGY.

JOHN
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Old 04-20-2004, 08:01 PM   #10
crazy longhorn
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Careful there John.....we will get some of the "resto nuts" revved up! I Like the weight transfer also, & have modified many things to get it
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Old 04-20-2004, 10:16 PM   #11
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Good Points

Always appreciate the views on this board. Always learn something or have a chance to see things from a different perspective.

I thought about the weight too. It seems to me that the V8 position creates a longer forward of CG moment arm and that the I6 position is therefore more stable, so I agree with that.

I don't fool around in the HEI distributor area much, so the tight space there hasn't been a problem - although I tried to reroute the tach wires last week. PO had them going through the "vacum gauge" hole and up the outside of the bezel. I routed 'em up under the steering column groumet area instead. I could not easily reach the green wire going to the distributor due to the tight space, so I finally cut it in the cab and soldered it back together once I had the rerouting done. That got me to thinking about putting the engine up in the V8 spot.

Since its a lot of small changes to make it work - like reworking the shifter, the accelerator linkage, and lengthening the drive shaft, I think its best to leave it alone and work at fixing all the goofy things the PO did, getting the overly sensitive power steering sorted out, getting power brakes, THEN attacking the rust I'm finding in my kick panels, floor edges, rocker panels, right inner fender, and radiator support structure (under the battery tray on those two).

Thanks for the inputs. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong leaving it there.
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Old 04-20-2004, 10:49 PM   #12
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my opinion only, it feels the space and just looks better in the v8 position. i did the i6 to v8 swap and spent the extra $ putting mine in the v8 position.
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Old 04-20-2004, 11:33 PM   #13
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Would the drive shaft be the same my 69 had a I-6 and 3 speed and I am installing a 327/TH 350 IF I kept it in the 6 cyl. posistion?
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Old 04-20-2004, 11:39 PM   #14
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Kaycee, if you have a short 350 turbo (6" tailshaft), it should be a direct bolt in. ......crazyL
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Old 04-20-2004, 11:49 PM   #15
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OK thanks alot
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Old 04-21-2004, 05:08 PM   #16
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Speaking of driveshafts, I have a 68 gmc/lwb with a v6 with the manual 3-speed in the v8 position with an upcoming 350/th350 swap? Will i need to lengthen or shorten my front driveshaft?

thanks!
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Old 04-21-2004, 05:19 PM   #17
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Remember that it's perfectly accurate to replace the phrase "inline 6 position" with "4wd V8 position."

True, GM engineered the engine to be a couple inches further forward in 2wds, but they also obviously believed (and have been proven right) that the other position was also acceptable.

Brian
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Old 04-21-2004, 05:26 PM   #18
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Personally if it were me and it's already in place with no issues I'd leave it. You'd gain no more by moving it forward than you would by moving it back if it were in the "correct" position.

Weight transfer, headers = hp gains pffft. Maybe if you're racing or doing a HP buildup. but to go to the Home Depot to get lumber or make dump runs, don't think so.

CrazyL, long time no see
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Old 04-21-2004, 07:05 PM   #19
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I just had to move my whole engine forward from the I6 position, In the past with standard heads it really wasn't an issue, using roller rockers on stock heads where you need taller valve covers creates a little issue. Also the real reason I had to move it forward was because of the aftermarket heads I am using are a raised runner and where hitting the firewall. Getting to the Fuel Injection fuel lines was also a real pain in the a$$. Otherwise if things are all working and unless there is a specific reason I wouldn't move the engine to the V8 location because there is where it was supposed to be. JMO


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Old 04-21-2004, 11:57 PM   #20
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Some one has said here in the past, that a later long water pump should put the fa into your shroud...that, or a 4X4 small block shroud would do it for sure.
Just remember if you try the long pump, you'll need new brackets for all the stuff and pullies and rewire the alt to the other side of the engine and all kinds of crap.
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by kaycee
Would the drive shaft be the same my 69 had a I-6 and 3 speed and I am installing a 327/TH 350 IF I kept it in the 6 cyl. posistion?
Kaycee, I've done this before. If you use the 6 inch tailshaft TH350, and leave the engine in the 6 cyl position, you can use the stock 6cyl/3spd driveshaft

...or...

you can use a 9 inch tailshaft TH350 (or a 700R4) and put the engine in the V8 position, AND still use the stock driveshaft.

The V8 position moves everything forward 3 inches and the longer (6 vs. 9 inch ) transmission tailshaft compensates.
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:50 AM   #22
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Re: Good Points

Quote:
Originally posted by Lobo'74
I thought about the weight too. It seems to me that the V8 position creates a longer forward of CG moment arm and that the I6 position is therefore more stable, so I agree with that.
"CG moment arm".... You're an airplane mechanic aren't you? The only people who say that are A&P mechanics.
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Old 04-22-2004, 03:33 PM   #23
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Not a mech...

No, a former naval officer (ship drivers use the same terms), retired naval aviator (10 yrs active, 12 in the reserves), and current American Airlines Captain.

I just play mechanic on the Truck
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Old 04-23-2004, 12:05 AM   #24
Longhorn Man
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I recognized the CG term from my dad...I guess pilots use the term too, all his pilot buddys are always talkin CG this stop leaning forward, you're messin up the CG... blah blah blah. I bore my dad with truck talk when ever he starts rambling on about his plane.
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