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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 715
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Re: Regearing and rebuilding my axles
Good info here. I plan on buying a master kit, but wanted to be sure all this stuff was included.
Good call on the thicker u-bolts, hadn't heard of people using bilstein shocks around here, solid spacer is good too. I'll look into the u-joint steering shaft too, my rag joint looks bad.
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1972 GMC Jimmy Custom 4.8L (L20)/6L90E/NP205 1989 Chevy Suburban V2500 350/Turbo 400/4.11 gears 1996 Chevy Suburban K1500 350/4L60E |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Carlos, Ca.
Posts: 3,048
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Re: Regearing and rebuilding my axles
Just went through my front 44. Replaced all bearings except for the pinion. Went through Yukon for the carrier bearing set. Good USA Timkens in the kit along with inner axle seals, shims, grease paint and cover gasket. I only replaced the carrier bearings (water got in and pitted them) since the pinion was fine. I used a pry bar as a spreader which worked well.
Outer bearings were a different story. I wanted Timken as well. When I picked them up, the Timkens that I received said "Hecho en Chine" on the box. No thanks. The Koyos that were in it looked great, cleaned up well and went back in. The spindles got new Torringtons. U joints are the newer sealed Spicers without a Zerk. They'll be fine for what you're doing. If you have a press, you're all set. If not, try and find one cheap. The used one I got for 80$ has been used well more than 80$ worth. +1 on the bigger U Bolts. Almost any OTR truck supply will be able to make them for you in short order if not while you wait. Just bring your old ones with you for a template. I've used Betts Spring 30 minutes from home. Upper and lower ball joints were pretty bad when I started taking it apart. What I didn't know was that the drivers side knuckle had been damaged at some point living both of the ball joint "bores" wallowed out. Luckily I found a drivers side knuckle from a 10 bolt. Used Moog joints that were USA made. If you do the upper / lower joints, don't forget the little preload chingas that go in. They should be replaced ever time a new set of ball joints go in and have a special spanner for getting them torqued / preloaded right. Ive used the front axle quite a few times since I finished it and so far it works great. Even better, it's finally done and crossed off this list! Best of luck.
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Chris '63 k15 long step Vortec 7.4 - L29 Blackbear tune, Five 0 Motorsports injectors, Chris Straub Cam, NV4500, divorced 205 ![]() 52" front and 63" rear spring swap D44 / 14bff - disc axles Milemarker 9K and 10.5K hydraulic winches 63" & B52 Spring Install http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ng+swap+thread NV4500 Reverse Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=reverse+build L29 - 7.4 Vortec Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&highlight=L29 |
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