72 C10 4X4 LWB, Put Back Together

[swamp rat]

Was thinking about this thread the other day, welcome back......

[bigsky]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Was thinking about this thread the other day, welcome back......

Really never left Been working long hours, at my paying job. Have been surprised at how time consuming rust repair is. Have used 1 2lb spool of mig wire, just on cab. Hoping to be able to spend more time on truck soon. Sure to have more questions when I start on installing wood bed.

[bigsky]

After a warmer than normal fall, finally getting some cold/snowy weather. This has allowed me to put some quality time on project,

Pics from two days ago, got front clip, hood, and cab in epoxy primer.

Yesterday bought paint for two tone. Top of cab is going to be metallic Gun Metal Silver/with pearl. Also got first coat of High build primer on.

Today spent 8+ hours block sanding Hi/build primer, and spot putting all small dings/low spots. Was going to apply second coat of hi/build tonight, but did not have enough hardner Will get more pics tomorrow.

One question: Have been using PPG DCU2021 clear coat @ close to $200 a gallon, Have been thinking of using Omni+ MC161 clear @ about $100/gal. Any opinions on the Omni+. Know that for many items you get what you pay for

Tomorrow hope to get second coat of hi/build sprayed/sanded. Then another coat of hi/build with a spot coat applied, and maybe sanded.

[bigsky]

Second coat of Hi-build on, and spot coated. Got hood sanded with #120, and two more "low spots" covered with spot putty, hopefully can get top of cab sanded tomorrow, and apply another coat of Hi-build tomorrow.

[bigsky]

After about a month of sub 0F temps. Finally warmed up to mid 20'sF, figured that was warm enough to get the 2 tone color sprayed. Really happy with how the Omni+ sprayed. Also used my new Iwata gun. Now time to start on interior of cab. Planning on using single stage paint on the inside. Color is 2014 Chev Gun Metal/Pearl. Have a few dust specks, but nothing that will not buff out.

[bigsky]

Today got inside of cab/doors/cowl, painted. Color is 2014 Chevy Bluebell Blue. Used single stage paint on the inside. Looks good, now time to start ordering parts, and getting cab put back together, someday this project will end. Hopefully can get frame dug out of about 3 ft snow bank, and get started on it in the next couple of days.

[bigsky]

Have a question about the lower doors on the 72. Should they be flat/straight across the bottom of the door. Pic #1 is of the door that I replaced the lower half door skin, I ran it straight across door. Pic #2/#3 of passenger side door, the outer edges have a downward concave to them. Which one is correct??

[bigsky]

Looks like door should have a slight concave at the edges, so will wait for final body work until they are test fitted on cab.

First day above 32F since 1st of Dec. so got frame/engine dug out of snow bank, and into shop. Time to start prepping frame, for POR-15. Supposed to get another 5" to 9" of snow next couple of days, so have time.

[bigsky]

Removed motor, exhaust, and got frame ready to prep for POR-15. Next couple of days will be dirty/messy sanding/cleaning frame. At least progress is continuing, even if slow.

[bigsky]

6 hours with wire wheel on grinder/drill. 5 hours with paint brush, and 1 quart of POR-15. Frame has one complete heavy coat, might put on a second coat tomorrow, not sure right now. Will clean both axles/xfer case in the next day or two, and get them coated with POR-15. Progress continues.

[bigsky]

Under carriage is done

Got both axles, steering gear box, xfer case. Wire wheeled, cleaned with gasoline. Truck at one time must have been owned by a asphalt co. Lots of old dried asphalt on under carriage, vary time consuming to remove.

Now waiting on cab support bushings.

Does anyone know where to order the plastic defrost covers on the dash?? Mine just crumpled when I tried to remove for paint. Have checked with LMC & Brothers, and did not see them offered.

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[bigsky]

After spending about 4 weeks, to get the CORRECT cab mounts. Can confirm that 1/2 ton two wheel drive, uses different mounts than the four wheel drive 1/2 ton. Now have cab mounted to frame, and 6 hours into door alignment. Cab had door seals removed when I got it, so not sure how fitment should look. Local Chevy dealer has a 72K mile K10 stepside in show room. Posting a few pics. of how doors are aligned on it. It is supposed to be all original, but Do Not think, Chevrolet would of used a washer, Pic 1 from the factory. Still nice to get some reference on "acceptable" gaps. Will post pics/questions ow where I am at now. Before bolting on front clip. Pic #3 both doors had rubbed through the paint on top of cab frame.

[bigsky]

My gaps are actually looking pretty good. Pic #1 shows that the door sticks out about 1/4", with door seals in door frame. Is perfect with door seals removed. Will seals eventually compress?, might also have do adjust hinges to fit fender. Which brings me to another question. Should I bolt the fender liners to the fenders before test fitting?? Pic #2 shows drivers side gap is a little wider than passengers side. Planning on adding washers to door hinge, to narrow gap, depending on how fender alignment looks.

[bigsky]

Another 7.5 hours, and the front clip/cowl are pre-fitted, and aligned. Happy with the overall gaps, not perfect, but better than many I have seen. Reading the forum helped a ton, would never of thought about shimming the new cab mounts on my own. Also learned that it is a waste of time to do body work, until it can be test fitted.

[bigsky]

Another long day, often wonder if I am slow, or if it just takes this much time to get door, to fender panel, perfectly straight. All doors/fenders/lower cab gaps look good, just need cleaned up. Ready for enamel primer, then Hi build primer/spot putty. Have not got any replies on passenger door sticking out slightly with door reals installed. So removed seals, and spot welded a bar from cab to door while doing body work. Figured I would get everything "straight" then worry about alignment with seal installed.

[GR8-68]

Your build looks like it going great, love seeing all the progress. I read about your gap with the seal installed, do you think it may eventually go away as the seals break in and begin to flatten some ? I was thinking it may be caused by the seals just being new.

[bigsky]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Your build looks like it going great, love seeing all the progress. I read about your gap with the seal installed, do you think it may eventually go away as the seals break in and begin to flatten some ? I was thinking it may be caused by the seals just being new.

Hoping that the door seal will "break in" when it warms up this summer. Gap actually closed up by about 1/3 over night.

Spent another couple of hours on doors, now down to all hand sanding, cleaning up all of the gaps, then primer etc.

[bigsky]

After many hours of sanding, applying bondo/spot putty. and 2 coats of hi-build primer. Doors/fenders are now in 3 coat of hi-build, and spot coated. After sanding this coat and checking for low spots, plan on removing front clip and sanding the door/fender gaps straight. They really looked good before I started the spot putty, using my improvised gap sanding tools.

[bigsky]

WOW, has it really been 10 months since last post!! Owner came and got the motor/tranni to have rebuilt, have not seen either for the 10 months. Have box in shop now, sanded, and all trim holes welded closed. Getting ready cut out, and replace rusted lower box panel. Owner wants to install a wood floor, and have several questions, that I have not been able to find answers by searching.

1: Should I replace the rusted out fender wells, before I fix the rust??

2: Can I replace the metal floor/braces without completely unbolting the box?

3: What is the the first step to replacing metal floor, not sure were to even begin.

Just to prove that I have not been in the shop working, here are several Pics of my $475, 1983 Mercedes 300CD turbo project that I did this summer. The black paint really showed me that I had a lot to learn, and am glad that I got more practice before attempting to paint the K10