Valve Cover seals

[Noah96]

Question for all the motor heads. This is my first truck (1969 GMC C2500 350) changed the valve cover seals on the engine with some cork felpro gaskets. Put them in and went to put the screws in with the tabs and couldn't get the tabs and screws to start threading. I tried without the tabs and the screws threaded in. Did I get to thick valve cover seals or should I find some longer screws so I can use the tabs so I don't bend the valve cover? Appericate any help

[DT1]

Are the covers stock? The screws that are used with the stock stamped steel covers are only about 1/2 inch long. My covers are stock and with the tabs I had to get a little longer screw.

[Keystone_Hate]

Get longer screws.

[Noah96]

Yes, they are stock and thanks for the info I''ll go to the parts store tomorrow and pick some longer ones up.

[Keystone_Hate]

Go to ace hardware. Cheaper and you can look at the bolts and compare to your originals before you buy them.

[jocko]

Since you mentioned it’s your first - don’t overtighten or you will very easily cause a worse leak than you may be trying to correct in the first place by splitting the cork along the head mounting surface. Also, I only put a thin bit of sealer on the valve cover, place the gasket on that, let it set, then install on the head. You do not need rtv all over the place - the gasket makes the seal, not the rtv. Just my technique, others have different methods I’m sure. Also, if you aren’t hard over on original looking, a valve cover stud kit greatly eases installation - guides the vc into place, then you just cinch down some nuts (again, not too much). But, it does slightly kill original look if that is important to you. Good luck! Oh, btw, tabs are a must - and if stock isn’t important, wider to spread the load is better. But stock is fine. Before installing your gasket - it is worth looking closely at the vc mating surface and hammer out any noticeable imperfections. They are often warped right at the 4 mounting holes because a prev owner has overtightened. A ball peen hammer lightly used on the warpage, with a solid flat metal backing to lightly hammer them onto, will fix the issue and prevent leaks.

[geezer#99]

And if you go longer bolts, put them on without the retainers/spreaders at first.
You want to be sure they aren’t too long and bottom out.

[retrax]

I believe the factory torque spec for the valve cover bolts is 4 foot pounds, which is not a lot.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Yep, in my youth I snapped some of those bolts. Real fun. Anymore, I just use a nut driver.

[Ironangel]

Manual calls out 45 inch pounds for six cylinder & small blocks, 50 inch pounds for big block. There are 12 inch pounds in every 1 foot pound...You can WAY over torque the valve covers even with a nut driver...Make sure those cover flanges are flat and not dimpled from previous over torque. (Finger Snug Tight)...Dont use silicon or any other sealants unless a damaged mating surface is evident...

[Stocker]

If you don't already have them -- and since you're getting longer bolts anyway -- install with spreader bars.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Manual calls out 45 inch pounds for six cylinder & small blocks, 50 inch pounds for big block. There are 12 inch pounds in every 1 foot pound...You can WAY over torque the valve covers even with a nut driver...Make sure those cover flanges are flat and not dimpled from previous over torque. (Finger Snug Tight)...Dont use silicon or any other sealants unless a damaged mating surface is evident...

Good info. there, IMO. I've never used a sealant. I've never torqued them either though I may get a small torque wrench for the rebuild. Nut driver has always worked for me, finger snug and done.

[Keystone_Hate]

You got about every ounce of valve cover information you could want now. LOL

[sick472]

Keystones right...a lot of great info here, but I can share a trick. I use the yellow (or black) 3M weather-strip adhesive and glue the gasket to the valve cover only. No glue on the head at all like others have said. Works great! Let the cork make the seal to the head. The slight advantage is that this adhesive hardens after a while (never had it let go and leak)and it's so much easier to scrap/wirewheel off when it's time for a new gasket (usually from over-tightening). This tip may not be worth going out and buying the tube-o-goo, but if you have some it's worth using. It's just going to go bad on the shelf.

[Noah96]

Thanks everyone I went to O'Rileys and grabbed some bolts between classes this morning that are a fuzz longer looks like they'll work. I'll get them on tomorrow when I get to work on the truck.