Center new proportioning valve

[superhondaz50]

I'm installing all new brake stuff, my new prop valve is not centered. How can I center it to bleed? I do have a bleeding tool but can't install it since the valve isn't centered. Thanks

[Keystone_Hate]

You could probably hook it up to your MC and then crack the corresponding brake lines for whichever way you need it to move, i.e. front or rear. then give the brakes a pump and see if it goes that way. Or stick a little screwdriver down in there and pry it until it's centered.

[superhondaz50]

I was thinking of trying to pry it, but it's waaaay off center, can't even see the little notch.

[geezer#99]

Does the prop valve have a black rubber cap in the front?

[superhondaz50]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Does the prop valve have a black rubber cap in the front?

Yes sir it does.

[geezer#99]

You just need something to push and hold it in.
I’ve used a big c-clamp before.
Improvise!

[superhondaz50]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You just need something to push and hold it in.
I’ve used a big c-clamp before.
Improvise!

Well that little nipple is flush, do I push it in?

[geezer#99]

Make it stay in and jump on the brakes hard. That should centre it.
Or to be sure, jump hard on the brakes so it pops out, then make it stay in.

[RichardJ]

>>Does the prop valve have a black rubber cap in the front? ,,

DO NOT screw around with the Metering Valve, without understanding what you are doing. It is not part of nor is it connected to the Pressure Differential Swich Piston.

As keystone said, just use fluid pressure to move it forward or back. When bleeding and you crack a rear valve, there will be little or no pressure in the rear lines. The pressure on the front lines will push the switch piston to the rear. By rear, I mean away from the Metering Valve and toward the Proportion Valve at the rear of the Combination Valve. You need to be observant there because sometimes the Combination Valve is mounted with the Metering Valve to the front.
Crack the caliper valves and the switch piston can be pushed to the front.

I 'm assuming you have the later type Combination Valve similar to the one in the drawing. The Metering Valve Pin needs to be pulled out and held while bleeding.

The older cast iron Combination Valves require the Metering to be pushed in and held while bleeding.

[superhondaz50]

How do you pull out that metering valve nipple?

[Domingo]

Its the PV needed could just run the front bowl to the front brakes and the rear bowl to a adjustable valve and to the rear brakes. Don't know just asking

[RichardJ]

>>How do you pull out that metering valve nipple? <<

Use a small pick or a jewelers screw driver to catch the edge of the mushroomed tip. Make a guestimate of the size of the shaft under the tip.

The tool shown above is a spring clip that holds the valve all the way open. The valve only needs to be held off its seat.

I used a strip of soft aluminum 1" x 2" x about .025" thick. Roughly.
Make a cut about a 1/2" long and use a small file to open the slot as needed.

As you're bleeding the brakes, the pressurized fluid will push the pin all the way out and a tool made from a single strip as I described, will fall away. Use tape or some other means to hold it in place until you are completely finished bleeding.