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#11 | ||
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A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Currently, Alabama
Posts: 5,934
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
Quote:
Quote:
If you think about it, moving the whole crossmember forward isn’t a whole lot different from using 1” forward tubular arms, as far as steering linkage geometry is concerned when related to the pitman and idler arm locations (someone please correct me if I’m under-thinking this). Stock type anti-sway bars can have the ends trimmed and linkage style bars might be able to absorb the difference (or have bushing locations redrilled, as you stated, thankfully, I’m starting from scratch there). All that to say, it may not be too terribly complicated to gain that extra inch. 104” wheelbase is stock, so probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 105” will look “right”. I’m pretty excited to finally get to play with one (the yellow Blazer was already converted when I bought it). Let’s find out together
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) Sporadically present, non-dues paying member of the world-famous Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC). |
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