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#10 | |
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GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,134
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Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
Thank you
Blind luck LOL Quote:
Yesterday I got the other side bar done between the middle and rear hoops. ![]() Then the part I have been dreading, those front bars along the windshield post. Sure they are pre-bent, but nowhere near close to fitting. Each end was about 6-8" too long so getting it in to try and mock up was not going to happen without cutting first. I took a bunch of measurements and did a little geometry and got the lower part of the bar cut fairly close without being too short. That gave me an idea of where the bar would mount to the floor. Then more measurements and geometry and using the magnet levels and calibrated eyeball to make an informed guess of the back end where it meets the middle hoop. At that point I could get it in and see where I was at. I was able to get the bottom end angle cut and set the tube in it's final resting spot. Then was able to mark the angle where the tube met the middle hoop. It's got a weird angle because the windshield post angles back and inward but the bar is bent through a single plain. So if the lower part is vertical along the door to the dash, then the bar is turned inward towards the back. Anyway, setting up to notch that back end of the tube was challenging for a noob like me. Eventually I realized that if I set the notch angle, which is perpendicular to the vertical front section of the bar, then I just had to rotate the tube in the notcher until the lower section was level. ![]() ![]() Holy hell it worked!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() You can really see the angle here... ![]() ![]() This pic is looking upward at the middle hoop where the front and rear tubes attach. The upper (in the pic) is the rear and the lower is the front tube. ![]() After hyperventilating a bit at my success I pulled the tube back out to use as a pattern for the other side. I just set the uncut driver side tube on the floor and set the cut one on top of it and marked it up for cutting. Just needed to reverse it in the notcher. ![]() ![]() Sweet! It fit. The cross tube wasn't too difficult, although I think I'm going to pull it out for a small adjustment. The angle for the notcher stays the same because math. LOL ![]() I think I was off a few degrees from one end to the other and I want it to fit back about a half inch from where it is now. ![]() No interference with the doors, the glove box door opens, the visors will move, though they do hit the tubes. They flex enough to work though. None of the tubes are tacked together yet. They just fit good enough to stay in place with a couple locking pliers to keep them from sliding out of place. I'll have to remove the seats and console for room to work. As it is it's a 6 point cage. There are 2 more tubes that are supposed to mount to the rear wheel tubs. I'm not going to do anything with them until I figure out the rear suspension because I'll probably be incorporating upper shock mounts, etc. I'll be adding some triangulation tubes, door area tubes, and tubes through the firewall to the front of the frame. I'll end up with at least an 10 point cage but probably more like 12-14 point when it's all said and done.
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If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy)HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 DuallyBigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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