Looking for exhaust manifold for a 250 with a fresh rebuild

[bubbasimms]

I have a couple OEM exhaust manifold, both with issues. Both have exhaust flapper issues and a broken stud or two...plus they are 50 years old and crusty. So I was looking at the replacement manifold from Summit, ATP part #101140. For 145 bucks I was wondering if it's any good. Anyone using one of these? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-101140

[harpo231]

From ATP...

Manufactured to OE design ensuring manifold will line up and flow like the original unit
High grade metallurgy resists fatigue cracking and breakage
Precision machine finished providing smooth installation and leak free performance
Upper and lower flange gaskets along with lower flange hardware are included (Heat shields and plugs are included where needed)
Industry Leading Limited Lifetime Warranty

The casting could be from any number of countries ,but if it was machined right , it should be fine ....

[bubbasimms]

I read all that. I also read some reviews that said the bolt holes weren't perfect and some said they were great. I can do a little massaging on it if need be, but I was looking for words of wisdom from the experienced here on the forum.

[harpo231]

They will come , trust me ....

[CST10]

If you buy it, let us know how it works out. I’m interested in one myself.

[Jason Banks]

I bought an ATP one from Amazon that was a 'Warehouse Deal' that was listed as " Used - Like New - Item will come in original packaging. Packaging may be damaged. " and paid $50.41 back in August 2015. At the time there were several available.

Put it on last spring. and it's perfect. Kind of wish I had bought all they had.

My old manifold needed the bushing in the shaft for the flapper replaced and had one of the bolt flanges broken off. I still have 2 other original manifolds but decided the ATP was the way to go. It's mounting surfaces are flat and I cleaned up the inside with a carbide rotary file because the casting was very rough inside. I wouldn't say I ported it...but maybe I did...because I took a bunch of material out of the inside.

edit: once I got it on an running...I discovered there was a threaded hole around the 2nd cylinder that needed to be plugged because I had a leak there. My old manifold had a 1/4-20 bolt in a similar hole so I transferred it over and all was good.

edit again: Yes the gasket that it came with was banged up ...but I didn't plan on using it anyway, because I had a Fel Pro out of a gasket kit. I found the hardware that came with it acceptable.

[bubbasimms]

Outstanding review Mr. Banks. Thanks for taking the time to write that up. Sounds like I just spent another $150.👍

[Grumpy old man]

Or you could just spend $40.00 and rebuild the one you already have .

[bubbasimms]

Well, lets explore that a bit shall we....

I haven't found anywhere to buy a new spring, flapper valve or the little pin that holds the spring. Are they available?

[Grumpy old man]

use the small block studs 3-pack drill and tap $15.00 , the spring is available about $20.00 whats wrong with the rest of it ?

[bubbasimms]

How do you get the new spring on there? Do you cut the spot welds and pull the weight off or is it possible to slip the new spring onto the shaft?

[Jason Banks]

Have you ever replaced the bushing on the shaft? Mine was a major leak point. Does someone sell the bushing?

I ordered new studs from mcmaster to bold the intake on...either that or they were included with the new manifold. Can't remember.