bundy fitting same as GM?

[kipps]

I ran across the term "bundy tube" or "bundy fitting". It appears to be the same thing as the GM quick connects. Are these actually the same?

Specifically, I'm looking for a simple fitting to go in the outlet end of the corvette filter/reg and be barbed on the other end for 3/8" nylon line. I found a "bundy tube" to barbed fitting, and wondered if it's what I want.

[Clyde65]

You should use -6 fittings for the pressure side, barbed is ok for the return side. Look at Summit racing!

[Wildkarde]

When you say nylon line are you talking about the fairly stiff black stuff that GM uses from the factory? I've never heard of Bundy fittings as a name, but everything I can find online looks to be a standard SAE quick connect, same as GM uses. If you are using the GM style nylon line Dorman makes an extensive line of replacement fittings, https://www.dormanproducts.com/c-386...aspx?pagenum=7 should be available from any decent parts store even if they have to order them in.

[kipps]

Yes, the stiff black stuff.

Plan is as follows. Using fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps in 3/8" and 5/16" sizes to go between the tank sender and the filter/reg. Mount the filter/reg on the crossmember just behind the cab. Use a 90 degree plastic fitting after the filter, and shoot the fuel line straight up over the transmission to the fuel rail. Rig up some sort of mounting tabs on the transmission, and zip-tie the fuel line to the tabs once everything's in place. Protect the nylon line with cheap hose and/or split loom. Protect the tank to reg hoses with split loom. The nylon line will be attached to a factory GM barbed quick-connect fitting at the fuel rail.

Most questionable thing I see, is I'm not sure the nylon line can make a straight shot over back of the engine and to the fuel rail. I hope to do it without any extra fittings. I'm also not sure what I'm doing for a charcoal canister/vent yet. I'll cross that bridge later.

[LeesTruk]

What Wildkarde says, check out Dorman Products. I used the stuff, from sender-to regulator-to fuel rail, on my build and its' been in use for over two years now, trouble free. However you run your lines, just use smooth flowing curves, as the tubing will kink. Also, to make your life easier, get the tool for inserting the fittings into the lines

[kipps]

LeesTruck, thanks for the pics. I was concerned about the stiffness of the nylon for the tank connections. I want something more flexible to make it easier to install the tank. What model truck was this installed on? Where did you mount the regulator? How did you plumb/locate the charcoal canister/evap line?

[LeesTruk]

Kipps, my truck is an '80 C10 swb. The filter regulator is mounted on the right frame rail, about 3 feet from the tank. The outlet line continues along the frame, then up the right side of the firewall and over to the fuel rail. Any section of fuel line I thought might be susceptible to heat, I covered in aluminized sheathing. The truck had a charcoal canister from the factory, but with many ports. I found a two port canister in the boneyard that fit the original holder. I routed my tank vent (center fitting on the sending unit as seen in the first pic) to the inlet side of the canister, leaving the outlet port open. The tank vents cleanly, and there is no gas smell

[kipps]

I'm using a driver's side tank. Since the exhaust runs down the driver's side, I'm reluctant to mount the regulator and lines in that frame rail. That's why I'm hoping to mount the regulator near the middle of the truck, and route the lines over the top of the transmission.

Do you have a link for that aluminized sheathing?

How did you fasten the vent line to the tank vent? will the nylon slip inside a piece of rubber fuel hose?

[kipps]

Leestruk, in addition to the two questions above, do you have a link for that double-ended metal QC in the outlet of your fuel pump? I've been looking for that thing, but can't find it.

Also, what tool do you recommend for installing the QC's? I was just planning on the flare-tool clamp and calk-gun method.

[Wildkarde]

I bought the $80 tool, but I'm a stickler for using the proper tools and hadn't seen that caulk gun thing until after I finished my first swap and bought it. It really works well, but probably isn't worth the money over the caulking gun method, especially if you have the gun and flare tool already.

[LeesTruk]

Kipps, first off, what year is your truck? It may explain why there are differences between yours and my trucks. Anyways, to answer some of your questions; The sheathing came from the local speed emporium, and comes in 3' sections. It is Velcro bound, meaning you simply part the seam, wrap it around your carrying line, then simply refasten the Velcro to from a protective sleeve. The vapor line in my truck is a hard line that runs the right frame rail. To join it to the tank and canister, use a fuel vapor rubber line, not just a rubber hose, as that will deteriorate quickly.

If you do a search here (250 to 5.3 swap), you'll see what I wrote about my LS conversion and what I used for fuel line construction. But, thanks to photobucket, you won't see any pic's. Being a retired auto line tech, my tool box will be MUCH larger than the average hobbyist, and incorporates such tools as hydraulic line forming/flaring stuff and the afore mentioned Dorman insertion tool.

To answer some more questions; What you see on the fuel sending unit are simply compression fittings, sections of Dorman fuel repair lines and Dorman couplings. I cut the bubble ends off of the sending unit elbows, attached one side of the compression union to the elbow, cut the repair lines to the size I wanted, then attached them to the other side of the union. Concerning the outlet side of the regulator/filter, again, I used a piece of Dorman fuel repair line, used my hydraulic tool and reformed the cut end for fuel line connection, and simply inserted it into the regulator and attached my fuel line to it. The repair line is 12" in length and you can use that, but make sure it's anchored to something so it doesn't do a lot of wiggling

Originally, my six banger's exhaust ran the driver's side of the truck, but when I did my swap, I built my own system (2 1/2" pipes from the manifolds, to a y-connector, then 3" out to a single muffler and tail pipe), that runs down the passenger side of the truck. That's why my fuel line is protected by the sheathing, So far, after two years of running, its' been rock solid, with nary a problem.

If you want to see some pic's of anything, I can repost them using this sites' capabilities

[kipps]

My truck is a '87. It's intended for two tanks, but I'm only installing one at the moment. I chose driver's side, because it's easier to fuel up. My truck is 4wd, with the driveshaft on the pass side, so I'll keep the exhaust on the driver's side to avoid interference. I have the complete exhaust out of the 2010 tahoe, which I'm hoping can be re-purposed by the exhaust shop for cheaper than all new components.

It appears you had a short(4 inch, approx) double ended quick connect tube between your filter and the female QC going to the fuel rail. I was hoping to find that piece ready made. I found where someone was selling it back in '09, but they discontinued it. I'll use the 12" piece from dorman instead.

I'm intending to use r9 fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps(not the worm type) to connect the sender to the regulator. I'll use quick connects at the regulator, but will be clamping the hose directly to the existing fuel sender nipples. My own logic says they will hold just fine. What are your thoughts?

I'll be using a AcDelco ep381 pump. It comes with the 3" piece of hose to connect it to the sender. Can I be confident that this is proper r10 submersible hose, or did they possibly cheap out?

Advance Auto sells the Vette filter/reg for $100 plus. I found a Wix on Amazon for $40. Is this cheap one sufficient?

[ls1nova71]

I can make you that 4" double sided quick connect piece of tube, just send me an address to send it to.

If you use the factory plastic quick connects, then put a piece of fuel injection rated fuel hose on them, then clamp them with fuel injection clamps, you will be alright. Once you push the hose on, it's going to be pretty difficult to remove it. I have done this in the past with no problems at all, just keep the rubber fuel hose to a minimum. Actually clamping a piece of FI hose at the sender will work, but may prove pretty hard to get over the flared part intended for the o ring, but is probably doable if you work hard enough at it.

The hose that comes with an AC Delco pump will be the right hose, a cheap Chinese one I may be leary of though.

When it comes to Corvette filter/regulators, I only ever use AC Delco or Wix. Any other brand can be a crap shoot, but had good luck with those.

[kipps]

ls1nova71, thanks for the offer. I've decided the 12" dorman piece will probably work better after all, so I'll pass this time.

I'm a little confused by your comments about the fuel sender. This '87 sender is designed for use with low pressure fuel hose and clamps. I figured r9 high pressure hose would slide on about as easily. Is it actually much harder to push onto the sender?

[ls1nova71]

Ok, no problem. If you change your mind, just hit me up.

As for the sender, that was my mistake, I forgot the '87 sender didn't have screw on fittings on it, so yes, you should be able to just put the rubber FI rated hose on it. The flare on the ends of those are actually kind of on the smaller side, so I would recommend double clamping at least the pressure side with fuel injection hose clamps, just put the screws on opposite sides of each other.