restore or buy all new panels ,build from scratch?

[CUDA8U]

Has anyone considered just finding a rolling frame and build it with all new panels? The cost to resto is staggering if you get a rusty project

[phat69]

It will be cheaper to buy a clean body.

[special-K]

The cost to start with just a rolling chassis will be very high. What cab will you start with? That's where the high cost of body restoration comes from. I think it's best to start with a complete truck. All that reusable nickle/dime stuff adds up and it's free with a complete truck. You have a properly VIN-plated truck and a reference to begin with. Take pictures before reach for tools as you dismantle. Guys take complete trucks, blow them apart, restore cab or buy an expensive one done, then go with anything from aftermarket panels, good used OEM, repair what was on it, or N.O.S. All that has nothing to do with whether you build starting with a whole truck or rolling chassis, except you won't have the option of reusing any sheet metal.

Funny thing is, I am building a truck all from parts of what started as a restored/rebuilt rolling frame with 4/6 drop I bought. But I had all the parts already. I had a '72 SWB I sold that I was going to restore. But I had everything to build what would appear as a '67 GMC along with the parts I had gathered for the '72 SWB. My logic was, I had a running driving truck that I'd have to strip down to rebuild the way I wanted and the chassis cost what just the lowering parts would have. It also had all new brakes, steering, suspension. $1k of just steering and brake parts with all labor done. I had a rust free cab and all OEM sheetmetal, rust free. I needed the money from the '72 because times were rough during the recession and divorce. None of that got to go to the truck. I wish I could have kept it and been driving it all this time. I still wish, with all the parts I have, that I had a complete parts truck sitting here for incidentals and reference. And I've done a lot of these trucks and am very familiar with how they go together.

[SeanB242]

I’m starting that way. My main concern is the cab. After that you can build repop beds and front clip, or if your able to source some rust free parts that would be cheaper. So. I’ll let you know in about 20 years when I’m done which way I ended up going.

[sick472]

It has been my experience with other make/model builds (and my 72 C10) that aftermarket sheet metal lacks good fit and will frustrate the snot out of you. Buying good used OEM panels is the way to go if you can help it ,so why not start with a full bodied truck and scrounge the damaged pieces?

[darrellyates]

Originally Posted by CUDA8U

Has anyone considered just finding a rolling frame and build it with all new panels? The cost to resto is staggering if you get a rusty project

Yes, I have. Only it's worse. I started with what I thought was a solid body, only to have to do a bunch of metal work. I then purchased a new frame, engine, body panels, etc.... So much that only a couple of dozen pieces of metal remain from the original truck.

Costs a bunch of money. Should have just purchased a completed truck.

Of course, now I have exactly what I wanted...

[volksworld]

20 or so years ago i replaced a rocker on my 70....the guys i got my aftermarket sheetmetal from had just come out with rockers....they didnt fit at all...while complaining to another 67/72 truck guy he said...you know you can still get them from chevy?...bought a real one and it fit perfectly....i think the quality of aftermarket stuff has improved but just watched a fabricator friend do a bunch of rust repair on a 70 blazer and nothing fit out of the box...rockers had to be reshaped with v notches cut in the front and pieces added in etc, accent lines didnt line up on doorskins,...he does this all the time and knows how he has to modify each piece to make it fit....so unless you actually do this for a living i cant imagine trying to build a body out of aftermarket panels...

[CUDA8U]

Being from Canada rust free parts are non existant,most vintage vehicles have been crushed.I could've bought a rolling swb with a cpp rear with exhaust cutouts for $800.It seems crazy to buy a project for $!0,000 USA or $13000 CAN .Many of these trucks look like they were drug out of the back 40 and now they want $10,000.Resto shops here are $130 or more an hour. Ebay prices are insane,fist size holes everywhere and they want big money.I agree buying a completed truck is cheaper but its hard to find the combo I like priced fairly.....blue & white,swb .

I own a 1970 dodge challenger with a 512 stroker so I know the costs involved with a vintage. Just a few yrs back the 67-72 pick ups were cheap to buy.

[Indyspecracer]

I bought a complete 69 SWB. I’m using the cab and the rest is aftermarket. The doors, fenders and rockers are done. It was a bit of work, but not terrible. I’m going with 67 sheetmetal. I find it better than fixing rust. The bed parts are supposed to be ptetty darn good.

[Robznob11]

Originally Posted by sick472

It has been my experience with other make/model builds (and my 72 C10) that aftermarket sheet metal lacks good fit and will frustrate the snot out of you. Buying good used OEM panels is the way to go if you can help it ,so why not start with a full bodied truck and scrounge the damaged pieces?

Yes, this is true. Don't think you get an easy ride with repop! I had to pie cut my hood down both sides to get it to match the fenders. Had to cut the inner support on the pass fender so the body contour matched the door. And aligning the panels takes 2 to 3 dudes and hours to perfect. You may even have to add metal or remove metal on the edges of you want nice body lines.