need pic of oil senders - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

junkyardpartseeker · 05-01-2004, 04:11 PM

I think one of the reasons why my choke is not working is when the shop installed this motor, they put in a wierd hookup for the oil pressure switch and the oil sender.

If you have the original hookups installed on your 350, can you send me pics of what they look like on the motor, I am trying to figure out where they install at.

Thanks
Tommy

ocbaud · 05-01-2004, 05:24 PM

junkyardpartseeker · 05-01-2004, 05:49 PM

Same as I have on the side of my block, but it's not working for some reason.
I went to Autozone to get the switch, but they argued with me that it doesn't have one.

I went then to Napa and got one, but it was rated for lights and I have gauges.

I have noticed the wire that comes off the plug and goes to the choke has power on it at first start up. Not sure if this is correct or not.

Thanks
Tommy

**swervin ervin** · 05-01-2004, 07:49 PM

Tommy,

the two prong one is the switch for the choke as you probably know by now. The big bell shaped one is the sender for electric gauges. A sender for lights will be shaped sort of like the two prong one except it will have one prong.

With power going to the switch, you will only have power coming out the other side if the engine is running, which is the way it's supposed to.

Have you tried running a 12 volt wire straight to the choke to see if it works this way?

KShortell · 05-03-2004, 11:51 AM

These guys have got it. I just replaced the choke sender last Thursday. It was a bit tight, but I was able to remove and replace it by taking off the distributor cap to gain clearance. It takes a 1 1/16 socket if I remember correctly. The factory used teflon tape on the threads, so I did, too...

No more erratic choke light now! Best of all, it only cost me around $9.00.

The open end of the V-shape that the tee makes points to the rear, placing the choke sender on the pass. side and the gauge sender on the driver's side. Note that this is just the opposite of what's shown in the photo above. I don't know if it varied much over the years, but this is the setup the factory used on my 1986 350 SBC.

The guy at NAPA gave me the same static, but I had already looked the part # up on the Internet (www.napaonline.com). I bought the following:

Echlin (Dana) Ignition Choke Heater Switch
Item#: ECHOP6616
Price: $ 8.49 + tax

Good luck!

05-01-2004, 04:11 PM	#1
junkyardpartseeker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mabelvale, AR Posts: 695	need pic of oil senders I think one of the reasons why my choke is not working is when the shop installed this motor, they put in a wierd hookup for the oil pressure switch and the oil sender. If you have the original hookups installed on your 350, can you send me pics of what they look like on the motor, I am trying to figure out where they install at. Thanks Tommy __________________ junkyardpartseeker@sbcglobal.net

05-01-2004, 05:49 PM	#3
junkyardpartseeker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mabelvale, AR Posts: 695	sender Same as I have on the side of my block, but it's not working for some reason. I went to Autozone to get the switch, but they argued with me that it doesn't have one. I went then to Napa and got one, but it was rated for lights and I have gauges. I have noticed the wire that comes off the plug and goes to the choke has power on it at first start up. Not sure if this is correct or not. Thanks Tommy __________________ junkyardpartseeker@sbcglobal.net

05-01-2004, 07:49 PM	#4
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	Tommy, the two prong one is the switch for the choke as you probably know by now. The big bell shaped one is the sender for electric gauges. A sender for lights will be shaped sort of like the two prong one except it will have one prong. With power going to the switch, you will only have power coming out the other side if the engine is running, which is the way it's supposed to. Have you tried running a 12 volt wire straight to the choke to see if it works this way? __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

05-03-2004, 11:51 AM	#5
KShortell Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Chesapeake, VA Posts: 734	These guys have got it. I just replaced the choke sender last Thursday. It was a bit tight, but I was able to remove and replace it by taking off the distributor cap to gain clearance. It takes a 1 1/16 socket if I remember correctly. The factory used teflon tape on the threads, so I did, too... No more erratic choke light now! Best of all, it only cost me around $9.00. The open end of the V-shape that the tee makes points to the rear, placing the choke sender on the pass. side and the gauge sender on the driver's side. Note that this is just the opposite of what's shown in the photo above. I don't know if it varied much over the years, but this is the setup the factory used on my 1986 350 SBC. The guy at NAPA gave me the same static, but I had already looked the part # up on the Internet (www.napaonline.com). I bought the following: Echlin (Dana) Ignition Choke Heater Switch Item#: ECHOP6616 Price: $ 8.49 + tax Good luck! __________________ Semper Paratus Last edited by KShortell; 05-03-2004 at 11:58 AM.

05-01-2004, 05:24 PM	#2
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129



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