Setup question with what I have

[dennislbrooks]

I know that I should have bought speakers before the amp but I awaited good deals. I presently have a Custom autosound 230 pushing a Clarion xc2410 Amp pushing 2 - 3.5 inch 4 ohm speakers in middle stock front dash grill and a right rear 10 inch Pioneer in a sealed box 300 nominal and 1200 peak - 4 ohm. It is located behind the passenger seat in the corner next to gas tank - is not sight noticeable and is open not touching with seat all the way back. A dual would probably had been better for the rear but I got these 2 new Pioneer TS-SWX2520 speakers in enclosed sealed boxes at auction for $26 a piece --- and they are new. I removed/cut the damper part of the speaker box to get it to fit. It has been resealed. The only place I can put the 10 inch cut speaker box on the driver side is under the seat --- I have not done this --to close ---- but I have left a 5.25 inch 4 ohm under the driver seat -25 watt.

The Amp is 50 watt per channel. It can be bridged but I do not have a dual rear sub woofer speaker.

The head has the bass set at 8 of 10 and loudness is about right between 38 and 44 -- less than half.

The bass amp gain is about 2/3 and the Low pass is at about 1/3.

The 10 inch subwoofer seems located in the correct place when sitting in the driver seat and hits nice.

----- Will there be any harm running a 10 inch on the right rear and a 5.25 inch on the left rear? I guess maybe with too much volume I may blow the driver rear speaker but I am not likely too turn it up that loud for cab listening.

----- Should I get a better higher wattage 5.25 inch speaker.

-----Should I port the 10 inch sealed box which is now a little bigger than the 10 inch speaker?

[BR3W CITY]

Running a sub off a single channel of a 4-channel amp means your only delivering 1/4 of the amps RMA power to the sub. That amp is only going to deliver 75w at 4ohms to the sub, which is really low for a sub. You're more likely to blow the sub by underpowering it. You also won't have any ability to adjust the crossover, so your sending the high frequencies to the sub. It'll end up functioning like an underpowered PA speaker.

[dennislbrooks]

I have a low pass crossover adjustment now I think on the xc2410. Finding a 300 watt per channel that is the approximate size of the xc2410 may be difficult. I do not want 300 watts going to my front speakers. What are my options for getting suitable power to the sub? Crutchfield says 250 to 500 watts to a 10 inch sub. There is a Clarion xc2110 mono for a sub but I do not have a sub output on the head.

Looks like I may have to change the amp and also relocate it to under the passenger seat. I have a Coustic 321QE but it looks like it is not enough also.

Or remove the sub.....

[BIGglaSS]

I'm not exactly sure I follow what you are doing. Sorry, But It's not close to properly set-up.

If you want another amp for the 10", the xc2110 has high level input. You could use the speaker leads from the head unit.

Your current amp has enough power for the speakers you already have.

EDIT:
The XC2410 does NOT have a LPF. Don't use it for the sub.. sorry. I deleted most of what I previously wrote.

However, the Coustic 321QE does have a LPF. Check the owner's manual, you can probably run it bridged and use it for the sub.

[dennislbrooks]

What if I run the 2 - 3.5 fronts off the head unit and then use a boss ar1500m monoblock one channel for the rear 10" sub? I take I would feed the amp with the L/R rear low input from the head unit. Then run no driver side rear speaker. The cab is small and I do not cut holes.

[BIGglaSS]

If you already have it, that will work. I know nothing about Boss, but they used to be bottom of the barrel. I threw one away that came in a car I bought.

I read your first post again.. Do you have one or two 5.25" speakers? 5.25s are going to sound better than the 3.5 dash speakers. Rear speakers are for rear seat passengers. You don't need them, unless you cant find a place to mount larger speakers in the front.

If you only have (1) 5.25, then forget it. Run the 3.5s from the head unit. They don't need an amp.

3.5s and a 10" sub is going to sound "incomplete". IMO, not worth the effort.

[dennislbrooks]

I do have 2 - 5.25s that would take work to put in the dash grill location. Will have to ponder. They may get partially covered by the opening. The sub 10 does enhance the bass even at the normal cab listening volume. I just want to set up for in cab at about 3-4 feet. I am not trying to rattle windows going down the road.


So for front 2 -5.25s running off the head unit --50 watt max. Then my sub running off the monoblock 1 channel amp?

[dennislbrooks]

Without cutting or going to kick or door panels. I can

parallel or series the 2 - 3.5 kickers for right front off the head -- dash grill location --- or maybe use one 5.25


Use one 5.25 for left front ---under driver seat????? --- off the head unit


Sub 10 off the monobloack amp --located same place in pic --that is the only place I have
.

[BIGglaSS]

I have to run, I can write more tonight. Meanwhile, what exactly do you have for 5.25/3.5? Give me a list of what you have, and how much you're willing to spend. And, what are your expectations.

Oh, BTW, I'm also an Oldsmo"nut". I have a 70 W30.

[dennislbrooks]

Makes your olds worth about $20K more than mine.

I have

2 pioneer TS-C1653 5.25" ---- 2 way full ranged 120 watt 4 OHM -- I do have a bracket for center grill mounting a single as long as I can keep the magnet off the head unit.

2 Kicker DSC-350 4 OHM

10" Pioneer sub 4 ohm

dunno

thanks

[BIGglaSS]

Beautiful! Mine hasn't been driven since 1987. It keeps getting pushed to the back burner...



Those components will work just fine with the clarion amp. Mount both 5.25s in the rear corners behind the seat. Run those 3.5's in the dash. Run them off the clarion 4 channel amp. I would get a mono amp for the sub, and be done. Does the head unit have RCA's? If so, use the set of RCA's for the 4 channel, and run the sub from the speaker level input.

[dennislbrooks]

Yes the head has rca's and am/will use on the Clarion. I am awaitng the mono amp to see how it wires as it only has input for 2 channels --- I take I would use the head's high inputs for left/right rear. I will have to check/ponder the mounting of the 5.25's. thanks




As far as your w30 - I take it is a 4 speed with no power brakes and has the ram air setup. Mine is an auto and now a 4 speed auto--- not a dual gate. The 455 likes/needs the OD. Mine was an air car but previous owner removed it. I will not use an aftermarket a/c as the car is pretty stock. I did put a vacuum can on it to help keep the power brakes from creeping. The stock cam has quite a bit of lope in it. They are a nice ride. No need for a chevelle. I have a few extra parts -- let me know. OPG has about everything.

Ok -- pondered --- putting the 5.25's in the rear corners is tough -- no room with tank or above. So -- I could put a dual 5.25 ( need to procure one) in the dash grill L/R front --I think--- still have to check the magnet clearance. I could put the 3.5 kickers in the corners of the seat back facing the rear window - running L/R rear-- all off the Clarion. Mono amp will be under the passenger seat regardless.

Will try first --Easy route with what I have ---- 3.5's in front grill and both 5.25's under the driver seat in their 6" pvc enclosures. Sub 10" in same location as pic above

I do have 2 - 4x10 singles and 2 - 4X6 singles in angle boxes that can go under the seat -- both low wattage.

[BIGglaSS]

That will work. The dash speakers will be over-powered, but that is OK. Turn the gain all the way down, and adjust the HU fade until the front and rear is balanced.

You mentioned low pass filter a couple times. That clarion 4-channel does not have LPF, only HPF. Set the HPF to about 100hz, and when you get the sub amp, set the LPF to about the same.

My W is TH400, dual gate, black buckets, A/C, power brakes. Yes, its real. Platinum with no vinyl top or wing spoiler. I still have all the original W parts. The engine was packed solid with mouse nest. Going to rebuild it with roller cam, rockers and TBI. Everything else is staying stock.

[dennislbrooks]

Got to ask --- does your olds have oem red front inner fenders? Did the w30 package come without the rear spoiler? But I take you have the correct air cleaner for the true ram air. Does yours have the factory aluminum intake? - valuable item.

As I understand you cannot tell options from the vin --- 344 ----does means 442.

I take the power brakes were added as I thot the w30 did not allow them because of lack of cam vacuum.

Mine is orig black interior with buckets console shifting--type O rear diff. 455 is orig , I put stock cam back in -- wicked enough. My 400th was not the orig but out of a Pontiac --orig would have been type O. So I added a 700r4 with no lockup --- we cruise in the fall. I would go 200 4r if did again. But I have no complaints on the 700.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Got to ask --- does your olds have oem red front inner fenders?
Yes
Did the w30 package come without the rear spoiler?
Yes, it was optional
But I take you have the correct air cleaner for the true ram air. Does yours have the factory aluminum intake? - valuable item.
Yes to both.

As I understand you cannot tell options from the vin --- 344 ----does means 442.
True, that's why there are fakes. All W's were built in Lansing or Canada. So if it doesn't have M in the vin, it's a fake. Canadian built are documented. Lansing are not. You have to find a build sheet or window sticker to verify options.

I take the power brakes were added as I thot the w30 did not allow them because of lack of cam vacuum.
Only on 4 speed manual. TH400 had a slightly different cam grind to allow power brakes, steering, A/C, and different rear end gear.

Mine is orig black interior with buckets console shifting--type O rear diff. 455 is orig , I put stock cam back in -- wicked enough. My 400th was not the orig but out of a Pontiac --orig would have been type O. So I added a 700r4 with no lockup --- we cruise in the fall. I would go 200 4r if did again. But I have no complaints on the 700.

It is a common misconception that the W30 was only a no power 4 speed car. There's a lot more special touches to a "W" car vs standard 442. Unfortunately many are fakes. There are more on the road today than left the factory. I don't care for the BB and TH400, but I'm not changing it on this one. This is my collector, sunday cruiser that I will never sell. The 57 truck is my restomod, thrasher.

[dennislbrooks]

Cool --- I run a quadrajet on the 455 as would have been factory. Of course it has loads of torque but it actually does not guzzle gas --OD helps.

I think all true US 1970 442's were built in Lansing---could be wrong. I thot all stated with 344 in the vin --mine has an M but I know it is not a w30. You could option one close to one even a Cutlass S as I have heard --not sure if true.

[BIGglaSS]

I'm a fan of quadrajets. They're great. 10 years ago, I called this guy:
https://cliffshighperformance.com/
He sold me exactly what jets and custom needles to run. Ran Excellent... I had problems with fuel evaporation and hard starting when cold. My dad just ditched his quadrajet on a 500 c.i. Cadillac for FiTech. Runs waaaay better, and instantly starts when cold. I will never own another carb again. Those days are over.

442s were also built in Freemont CA (Z), and Linden NJ (E). As I recall, Cutlass S were all 350. Base model were 6 cyl or 350 v8. Cutlass Supreme (notchback) could be optioned with 455 code W-32 aka SX455. By 1972, they were all Cutlass, and 442 was a trim/handling package, 350 or optional 455.

[dennislbrooks]

Looks ike about all I got right was the 344. Looks like they may have been made 1 of 7 places.


Back to the 67 ---- unless you think bad I am using RCA splitters off the L/R rear low inputs instead of using the high inputs. I have found nothing that says I have to ground the amplifier case to ground ---is it necessary as it will be setting on noncut loop pile carpet under the seat --do not want to drill holes in floor. I can put short pointed bolt feet on it to keep it from moving. This would raise it a bit (1/2") to allow air under it also. I can run a ground from the case to the amplifier ground lug which is grounded to the body which is grounded to the engine /frame/battery.. Let me know.

Thank you for the help. Until I get the monoblock in I have the sub disconnected --- bummer --- once you hear the bass.

[BIGglaSS]

No need to ground the amp case. If the RCA splitters work, then run it. I think that is better than using speaker high level inputs.

[dennislbrooks]

BIGglaSS, I ended up using the L/R rear high inputs as you suggested. Not sure if my splitters were no good or what -- got nothing. I have adjustments made as you suggested. I did adjust the gain down on the 2 --- 5.25's ( about 1/3 on the Clarion) as those have some bass on them also - both under driver seat.

For cutting no holes or adding foot panel speakers, this setup sounds pretty good and I am very satisfied with my results. Bass addition from the 10" sub is nice. I pretty well did away with any stereo effect but not sure how much it is beneficial in a small truck cab.

A head unit with sub rca's out would have been a cleaner install - maybe next time.

I thank you for sticking your neck out to help someone clean up their mess as to a better solution.