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Old 04-29-2018, 02:47 PM   #1
Fishnfill
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True Cheyenne vs Clone

Im looking at purchasing a 72 Cheyenne and since the VIN and the title dont tell me if its a Cheyenne, does anyone know how to ensure it is and not a clone?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Don
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Old 04-29-2018, 02:55 PM   #2
72 tigger
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Is the SPID (the decal inside the glovebox door) still there?
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:16 PM   #3
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

If the spid is not there
Or
The build sheet
There is no way to tell
But
It was fore sure, never a Cheyenne
It it does not have a rear cargo light
On the back exterior of the cab

That’s the first place to look
If
You want to see if any truck is a Cheyenne or Super
Because it was standard equipment on them
And an option on all other trucks
Also
All Cheyenne’s came standard with lower trim
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:20 PM   #4
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Cargo light a good thing to check for, I agree. My favorite dead giveaway (for a Cheyenne) is whether or not there is a headliner. While it can be faked, it's quite the pain to do so as the perimeter trim retainer clips need to be present. Headliners only came on Cheyennes and Cheyenne Supers - so it's NOT a dead giveaway for a Super - but it's a pretty good one to determine whether a truck was at least at the Cheyenne trim level, and since that's all the seller is claiming, that's a good one to check. All this detective work is worthless if it has a SPID or Build Sheet as has been stated, as long as the SPID VIN and cab metal VIN tag match, then you can kinda run with what the SPID says for original options. If you post pics we can also help out. When you start getting into swb vs lwb, original 4x4s etc, then there are lotsa questions to consider about the frame as well - and then the VIN CAN help out a lot - i.e. there should be a K in the 2nd digit for a 72 or the 1st digit for 67-71. That's the first thing to check for a 4x4's originality. One more thing to be aware of is wheelbase and model number. For instance, a swb truck has a wb of 115 WITH a model # of 10734, whereas a lwb has a wb of 127 with a model # of 10934 (for a 1/2 ton, 20934 for a 3/4 ton - which is always a lwb truck). If you are looking at a swb truck with a 10934/127 on the SPID, it's time to check for a shortened frame, cab/frame swap (by comparing the trailing digits with the frame VIN (top rail in vicinity of the ps pump). It's fun playing detective though

Last edited by jocko; 04-29-2018 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:30 PM   #5
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Great info...thanks all. Unfortunately theres no SPID in the glovebox or build sheet but it does have the cargo light and lower as well as upper trim!
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:32 PM   #6
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Im not sure about the headliner as I wont see it till 2 today!
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:32 PM   #7
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Is the lower trim woodgrain and does it look OLD? Keep in mind that upper/lower trim are common additions to lower trim level trucks.
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:41 PM   #8
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

If the spid isn’t there
It doesn’t mater about what options you see on the truck
If you like it, buy it
If you don’t. Pass on it.

If if is important for you to have a documented truck
That
You know is real

Buy one with a spid

If you don’t care about that
Buy one without a spid


It’s all personal preference
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:38 AM   #9
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevyland View Post
If the spid isn’t there
It doesn’t mater about what options you see on the truck
If you like it, buy it
If you don’t. Pass on it.

If if is important for you to have a documented truck
That
You know is real

Buy one with a spid

If you don’t care about that
Buy one without a spid


It’s all personal preference
Very good advice Eric.
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:31 PM   #10
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

I agree with the above posting. If you want a documented Cheyenne move on. If you want want to drive and enjoy, snatch it up and enjoy it. Personally, I have mine to enjoy. When I am finished with my truck it will be fully loaded for 72. Definitely not what is was originally, but I enjoy driving it everyday.
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Old 05-02-2018, 02:27 AM   #11
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

and dont pay for a cheyenne unless it is beyond all doubt a cheyenne.
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:17 AM   #12
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

One thing i found that i will put in all my new builds is the 1968 -72 Chevy nova's Low fuel light.My 1971 Nova has it and when i drove it home this red light came on behind the dash In where the fuel gauge was.When i checked on it camro's and nov'e where the first to have a inducater to tell you you have lass then 20 miles of fuel left.Its a cool thing to have in are trucks if you like to put one in
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:39 AM   #13
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Quote:
Originally Posted by stsalvage View Post
One thing i found that i will put in all my new builds is the 1968 -72 Chevy nova's Low fuel light.My 1971 Nova has it and when i drove it home this red light came on behind the dash In where the fuel gauge was.When i checked on it camro's and nov'e where the first to have a inducater to tell you you have lass then 20 miles of fuel left.Its a cool thing to have in are trucks if you like to put one in
A bit of a detour from the topic eh? Start up a thread about the idiot light, Im sure it would be useful. I for one would like to know whats needed to make functional,but not on this fellas thread.

To the Op, I'd like to hear if you bought it and pics please!
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:42 AM   #14
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Since you can order a brand new SPID right from dudes on this forum, I wouldn't spend a bunch of extra money on a particular motor or trim level unless I could guarantee it through other means.

Even old owner photos are a help.

Don't pay real money for assumed provenance!
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:44 AM   #15
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Smile Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

I agree...wrong thread for a 'low fuel light' discussion....but:

However, by all means post up a new thread that talks about doing this.
This would be a nice adder to have in these trucks and if you have figured out a simple way to do it....let us know.

All good
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:46 AM   #16
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

A Cheyenne is nothing more than badges, buy the truck with the least amount of rust you can find.
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:49 AM   #17
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coley View Post
I agree...wrong thread for a 'low fuel light' discussion....but:

However, by all means post up a new thread that talks about doing this.
This would be a nice adder to have in these trucks and if you have figured out a simple way to do it....let us know.

All good
Coley
My 1969 Pontiac has a "low fuel" light circuit that might do exactly what you want:

1) It uses just the factory sender wire as a source
2) Some basic circuit behind the dash

The light starts to "glow" when gas gets low and then comes on increasingly bright as the fuel goes lower and lower into reserve.

Pretty nice feature for a 1969 GM vehicle! Can't tell you how much time I spent as a teenager gauging whether the light was bright enough that I wouldn't make it home...
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:46 PM   #18
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

After taking a look at the C10 I came to the conclusion that it probably was a true Cheyenne, based on the fact that although it didn’t have the SPID, it did have the headliner and the rear cargo light. Most importantly it was a 80 footer at best and had more rust repair work needed than I was willing to take on. Having owned and restored a K10 over 20 years ago I know the importance of finding a truck with minimal rust.
I continued my hunt and found a 72 Cheyenne Super, though I wasn’t particularly looking for a Cheyenne or a C20, I couldn’t pass this one up. It’s a true (barn find) Cheyenne Super with minimal rust and all original sheet metal and drivetrain. It even has the original split rims and the Protectoplate. I purchased it from a gentleman who’s father had bought it new and it was passed down through his family. He shared many memories of the truck and although he was sad to see it go, he was happy to hand the keys to me knowing that I will continue to keep in touch with him and share in its restoration.

Chevy…”Like a Rock!”

BTW...old blue needs a new egg crate and rear chrome bumper . Anyone know of a good quality vendor other than LMC?
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:02 PM   #19
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Re: True Cheyenne vs Clone

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnfill View Post
After taking a look at the C10 I came to the conclusion that it probably was a true Cheyenne, based on the fact that although it didn’t have the SPID, it did have the headliner and the rear cargo light. Most importantly it was a 80 footer at best and had more rust repair work needed than I was willing to take on. Having owned and restored a K10 over 20 years ago I know the importance of finding a truck with minimal rust.
I continued my hunt and found a 72 Cheyenne Super, though I wasn’t particularly looking for a Cheyenne or a C20, I couldn’t pass this one up. It’s a true (barn find) Cheyenne Super with minimal rust and all original sheet metal and drivetrain. It even has the original split rims and the Protectoplate. I purchased it from a gentleman who’s father had bought it new and it was passed down through his family. He shared many memories of the truck and although he was sad to see it go, he was happy to hand the keys to me knowing that I will continue to keep in touch with him and share in its restoration.

Chevy…”Like a Rock!”

BTW...old blue needs a new egg crate and rear chrome bumper . Anyone know of a good quality vendor other than LMC?


Nice, post up some pics when you get a chance.
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