Manual air ride valves suggestion?

[Backpayne]

I already have 2600 bags on all corners and just using schrader valves. My dual Viair 444c compressors and 5 gallon tank came in (woohoo) but I am struggling with valves. I was looking and electric valves but think I may go with manual valves (prefer not having to worry about any more electrical issues than necessary).

I like the Aire Jax Foreplay but see a lot of the plastic paddle valves. Anyone have recommendations or experience with manual valves? Are 1/4" valves too slow?

Thanks#

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Backpayne

I already have 2600 bags on all corners and just using schrader valves. My dual Viair 444c compressors and 5 gallon tank came in (woohoo) but I am struggling with valves. I was looking and electric valves but think I may go with manual valves (prefer not having to worry about any more electrical issues than necessary).

I like the Aire Jax Foreplay but see a lot of the plastic paddle valves. Anyone have recommendations or experience with manual valves? Are 1/4" valves too slow?

Thanks#

Define "too slow"?

Are they slower than 3/8" or 1/2" electric valve actuation? Yep. Do they still raise/lower a vehicle? Yep

My CC dually has budget friendly 1/4" manual paddle valve control. The front drops fast enough for me w/the weight of the all iron BBC over the bags. The rear is definitely slower but I've never needed it to drop instantly.

Both ends will raise up to ride height in seconds as long as the tanks are fully charged. The front will empty the 3gal tank & kick the comp on so it usually takes longer.

[Backpayne]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Define "too slow"?

Are they slower than 3/8" or 1/2" electric valve actuation? Yep. Do they still raise/lower a vehicle? Yep

My CC dually has budget friendly 1/4" manual paddle valve control. The front drops fast enough for me w/the weight of the all iron BBC over the bags. The rear is definitely slower but I've never needed it to drop instantly.

Both ends will raise up to ride height in seconds as long as the tanks are fully charged. The front will empty the 3gal tank & kick the comp on so it usually takes longer.

Your description of the speed of your vehicle raising/lowering sounds good to me. I don't want it to go too fast where fine adjustments are impossible, but I don't want it too slow where I have to wait 30+ seconds for it to lift from full drop to ride height. I'm not going to be raising/lowering very much, though.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Backpayne

Your description of the speed of your vehicle raising/lowering sounds good to me. I don't want it to go too fast where fine adjustments are impossible, but I don't want it too slow where I have to wait 30+ seconds for it to lift from full drop to ride height. I'm not going to be raising/lowering very much, though.

It prob takes about 30ish seconds from rails on the ground to ride height. That doesn't bother me because I let the motor settle before needing to drive off anyway.

Only 'fault' w/manual paddle valves is repeating the height set-points. 90psi in the am will not always yield the same height as 90psi mid-day. It won't hurt when buzzing around the block but there can be accelerated wear on extended drives. My corners also require different pressures to achieve a level stance. I could 'tune' that issue out but I just vary the pressures & roll w/it.

I always verify my corner heights before extended drives.

[Robznob11]

FWIW, I'm running the delo manual valves and the are great! All metal and work plenty fast enough for me!

[Backpayne]

I've seen those and am looking into them.

[Robznob11]

I run 200 psi, my truck goes up quick and down med , probably 20 seconds for rear. It is nice for small precise adjustments. I like to set it and forget it. I AIR OUT for showes....and cool pictures. But that's because I can lay my belly pan on the ground! Lol dont want to RIP off my oil pan��