Run Away's '69 C10 LWB Project Log

[Run Away]

Ordered a new set of '67-68 front clip mounts from LMC truck...ouch. $60 of product plus $50 of shipping/duty and a poor Canadian dollar ends up at $155.



Even after a couple days of stewing over how to line thing up I don't have any good ideas.
The best idea I've got it a wooden brace built inside the complete cab transferred into my cab to get the distance from floor to ceiling at the front of the cab correct, but I don't that that would be very accurate. There aren't really any fixed reference points between the two that I can use.

Another possibility is distance between the dash mounting captive nuts in the A pillars and the floor, but again I'm not too sure the factory placed those very accurately.

I can't use the firewall as there is none. I can' use the bottom of the A-pillars as the one side has rusted away and the other A-pillar I replaced. I can't hang the doors yet as the cab bracing prevents that.

Maybe I'm over thinking this and the factory variation in tolerances isn't that accurate either but I'd like to get it as close to "right" as possible.

Since I like pics here's a few I snapped while staring at it and thinking.





Anyone have clever ideas?

[DD1]

Originally Posted by Run Away

Even after a couple days of stewing over how to line thing up I don't have any good ideas.
The best idea I've got it a wooden brace built inside the complete cab transferred into my cab to get the distance from floor to ceiling at the front of the cab correct, but I don't that that would be very accurate. There aren't really any fixed reference points between the two that I can use.

Another possibility is distance between the dash mounting captive nuts in the A pillars and the floor, but again I'm not too sure the factory placed those very accurately.

I can't use the firewall as there is none. I can' use the bottom of the A-pillars as the one side has rusted away and the other A-pillar I replaced. I can't hang the doors yet as the cab bracing prevents that.

Maybe I'm over thinking this and the factory variation in tolerances isn't that accurate either but I'd like to get it as close to "right" as possible.

Since I like pics here's a few I snapped while staring at it and thinking.





Anyone have clever ideas?

Is there any possibility of waiting till you replace the firewall to perfect the measurements? If you had a firewall, I would say the front of the floor does not matter, because it fits where it fits - it's not adjustable. The rear does matter because that is adjustable and will affect the height of the floor in the front and the back.

I would suggest using sheet metal screws to hold the floor in position in the rear, and not permanently attach anything in the meantime.

[yellowgtman]

Jumping on board to see how this turns out. Amazing effort so far.

[Run Away]

Slowly picking away at things...

Unbolted the bed from the frame because I have new bolts with pads to install. 6/8 snapped..



It's not looking very nice under there. I really need a better parking spot away from grass.



Cleaned all the trash and spare parts from the bed including the toolbox and swept it.



Added one stick of 1x1 to the bracing on each side, removed the one that went to the outside of the A pillar. Relocated the lower angle iron further inwards on each side.




Now I need to convince some people over to help lift the front clip off again so I can hang the doors.

Still flip flopping between making the body lines line up with the bed on the pads (adds about 1/4") or leave them out like factory and space everything up if I decide to use them.

I suppose I should probably pick up some new door hinge pins too before I get the doors on. Still not 100% on how I'm going to line things up. I'm making stuff up as I go. I like the string idea, and now being able to put the doors on will allow me to stretch or pull things in the right direction before welding.

[Run Away]

Originally Posted by DD1

Is there any possibility of waiting till you replace the firewall to perfect the measurements? If you had a firewall, I would say the front of the floor does not matter, because it fits where it fits - it's not adjustable. The rear does matter because that is adjustable and will affect the height of the floor in the front and the back.

I would suggest using sheet metal screws to hold the floor in position in the rear, and not permanently attach anything in the meantime.

I've got a firewall, but there's probably an easy 1/2" of adjustment that could happen with it. The seam between the firewall and floor is also the main source of fitment issues with the aftermarket floors from what I've seen so I don't want to rely on that. There is nothing to locate the front of the floor height wise where it fits between the A pillars. At the back the door jamb has a lip that rests on top of the floor, locating it. And then of course the rear wall of the cab will fit flush with the back of the floor so basically the cab just gets lowered onto the new floor, and pushed as far down and forward on the new floor as it can go and it's positioned correctly. If the very bottom of my A pillars were not missing it would be a snap.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by Run Away

I've got a firewall, but there's probably an easy 1/2" of adjustment that could happen with it. The seam between the firewall and floor is also the main source of fitment issues with the aftermarket floors from what I've seen so I don't want to rely on that. There is nothing to locate the front of the floor height wise where it fits between the A pillars. At the back the door jamb has a lip that rests on top of the floor, locating it. And then of course the rear wall of the cab will fit flush with the back of the floor so basically the cab just gets lowered onto the new floor, and pushed as far down and forward on the new floor as it can go and it's positioned correctly. If the very bottom of my A pillars were not missing it would be a snap.

Ok, I am confused. The front lip of the floor where it meets the lip of the firewall does not seem to be adjustable to me. You can adjust the height of the front of the floor by adjusting the height of the back of the floor. As you raise the back, the front will follow in height.

There can be a small gap between the back pillar and the floor. While I have seen some people move the floor so it touches the back pillar, I have been told that a gap is normal. Take a look at the last page (I think) of my build thread. The gap you have in your back pillar looks about the same as the gap I have. I used the markings left over from paint (or lack of it) after I removed my floor to determine the height of my floor.

What I can tell you, and this might help you line things up, is that there is a 7-1/2" distance from the center of the top hinge bolt hole to the large hole at the bottom of the A pillar. See page 2, post 36 of Dan's thread (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=503533&page=2)

I would focus on installing the front and back pillars if you have not already done so (I can't tell from your pics if you did them both), then adjust the floor height after you are done.

[68Gold/white]

My hat is off to you, for not giving up!!!
Carry on!!!

[freco]

I'm really impressed by the job you have done this far!
Will be exciting to see how this develops.

[DarkFlounder]

Frigging Photobucket!

I'm really wanting to see this build.

[Run Away]

Yeah sorry guys. The whole Photobucket thing has really taken the wind out of my sails in terms of updating the thread. Still plugging away at it though. Need to find another host,
but it's unlikely I'll go back and fix the probably over a hundred pics that are broken now.

I've recently joined Instagram, there's a little bit I've posted there. Search the hashtag #204C10.

[dmjlambert]

Why find another host? Instead, just download from photobucket to your computer and upload the pictures directly to this forum, to edit the posts and use that method going forward...

[Puscifer]

I would absolutely love to see all the pics as i'm going to be cutting my cab apart soon, and all the threads say to see this thread. I'll keep checking in here and on the instagram as well.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Puscifer

I would absolutely love to see all the pics as i'm going to be cutting my cab apart soon, and all the threads say to see this thread. I'll keep checking in here and on the instagram as well.

If ya want you can go thru my thread, kinda long and strung out being as it was my first time but I tried to document all my steps. Link in my sig.

[Puscifer]

I will definitely check it out. Thank you.

[Run Away]

Thanks for checking it out. I've been pretty inactive, didn't get much done during the summer. Truck is hibernating for the winter now.

http://s45.photobucket.com/user/Ben_Lude/library/c10

Here's a direct link to my photobucket album for the truck, all 650ish pics. Pics should work if you view them on their website. Hopefully they help!

I'll try to sum up the little I got done during the summer.
Replaced both lower A-pillar bits. From this


Fitment sucked







Also did the other side.

Bed got all new mounting hardware.

Other than that it was a lot of moving things one way, then the other, doors on, doors off, tweak, shuffle, etc. Nothing interesting to look at.

I stacked all the pieces together for the winter. Here's what it looked like before I put the tarp on it.


Pretty frustrated at myself for getting so little done, next spring I want to hit it hard again.

[t300]

Woke up from winter yet?

[VWNate1]

Looks like good progress .

? What are the things you parked over ? they appear to do a good job of preventing grass etc. from growing up, I have one oldie parked over grass and I dislike it .

[Odaroloc]

Great job man! I just picked up a 69 and its the same thing like yours, rust everywhere. Im gonna try to save it just because i dont have the space or time to get another cab. and i have all this summer and all winter to get it done! Can wait to see this ont he road looking nice!