LS 5.3 is finally sitting in the Jimmy!!!

[Thealien]

Its been a long process with getting my transfer case powder coated and installed.


Powder coated transfer case


A little more progress

Here is the adapter plates that I cut the point off, tapped a hole, and had powder coated.



Here they are installed on the engine



Here is the oil pressure sender T adapter I had made so I could use the factory mechanical gauge and can read the pressure through a scanner or HP tuners through the OBDII port if I wanted.



These are the DIY4X4 frame brackets that the cross member bolts to.



Here are a few random cross member pictures.







And the one that matters!! I brought the engine hoist and stand home making more room in the garage I am borrowing. I now have a ton of little things to do.

Install gas tank and associated hoses Done

shift linkage Done need to grind the shaft for the ste screws

Notch transmission pan for drive shaft clearance (if there is enough room inside the pan to do this???)? There is enough room and done

Fill transfer case Done

Fill transmission Done need to add more when I start it up

Fabricate a mount for the DBW pedal Done

Install intake Done

install radiator Done

install PS pump, alternator, belt, fan Done, wrong connector on alternator plug Changed plug

Install harness and make necessary connections done

exhaust Done

Heat/Ac hoses Done

Glovebox and glovebox door Done

Dash bezel Done

cruise

A few odds and ends

I hope to get a few things on the list done each week after work and a big thing or two on the weekend. I hope to hear it run in 6-8 weeks but that is not set in stone. It is running and driveable. My heater core is leaking and I have a lean bank 1 DTC I am struggling with



This thing has a lot more power than stock!!!!

[Thealien]

Just an update

There is enough room inside the transmission pan to clearance for the driveshaft. I have it at my welder getting notched/welded. I will add pics when I get it back.







A couple of gas tank pics

[glock35ipsc]

I'll be putting on min my 70 K10 in the near future. I'm liking your cross member design!

Subscribed.

[Ackattack]

Good luck with getting it all working. I know you've done a lot of research and that will make it go easier.

And it will all be worth it when you get it up and running!

[Thealien]

Had a good day







I am using trailblazer SS exhaust manifolds. I had to do NO frame trimming. It will be tight where the manifold bolts to the exhaust but it is doable!



Here you can see the exhaust and the bulkhead fitting where I ran my hardline in the frame to the bottom and AN -6 black nylon coated hose to the fuel rail.



Here is the power steering pump. I took the fitting out of the back of my original pump and replaced the one in the pump that came with my 5.3 with that one. I then bent my original hose that was on my truck to fit onto the 5.3s pump. The return line on the 5.3s pump had to be bent a little also it was hitting the frame.

[Puropedo]

Looking good! You are doing a great job! Where are you going to mount the PCM? Did you rewire the stock harness yourself?

[Thealien]

For now the PCM will sit on the drivers inner fender. I had a board member do my harness. I do plan on someday reworking a harness myself and finding a better location for the PCM. I want to eventually do hydroboost which will clean up a lot more room. I may even do a drivers side battery using the factory 5.3 battery cables. If I do I may mount the PCM to the side of it? I hope to hear it run in a couple/few weeks. Lots of little stuff to do.

[Thealien]

Just an update. I had the engine running and moved the Jimmy under its own power yesterday. There is still lots to do ie: permanently mount the DBW pedal (and cut and weld my original pedal to it). Mount the PCM, TAC, heat and AC hoses, glove box, dash, cruise. and have the exhaust installed. I still have 2 anoying leaks that I can't seem to stop???!!

My thermostat housing leaks between the pump and housing. I have removed and replaced it 3 times and it still drips . I am thinking the housing may be bad? I may just replace the whole water pump/thermostat housing eventually.

My power steering pump is dripping from the fitting on the back (I swapped my 1972 fitting with the 2005 fitting so I could use my original hoses). I will have to pull the fitting, compare with the 2005 one and find a fix or go the AN route with the 2005 pump fitting.

But it runs

[SOON2BLAZE]

Congrats!

[Thealien]

Damn, I need to update or do a complete build/swap thread. I have about 6-700 miles on it so far. I am getting it tuned soon. I have had a few issues from leaks to clogged injectors. All the leaks are fixed except where the speedometer screws onto the transfer case. It has a new oring and I even put some seler on the threads but it still drips a couple of drips a day (and probably a few while I am driving). It bothers me, I will find a fix eventually?!

Truck does run great. It got a little hot today but I have been driving it in 90-100 degree weather for a couple of weeks now.

My other issue is I can not get my cruise control to work. I have power everywhere it is needed. My brake and TCC switches work and send the correct signal on the correct wires? I really want cruise but I am not losing any sleep over it. CRUISE IS NOW WORKING!!!

Thanks to everyone that has helped me with both parts and information and for everyone contibuting here to help others enjoy the benefits of driving a cool old vehicle with a modern, eficcient, and reliable engine to power it down the road!

[djw32]

Can you fill me in on what you had to do to the power steering fittings? i would also like to use my current power steering hose on my 5.3 swap.

[Thealien]

THese worked out the best

I swapped the internall fitting but mine weepede a bit so I put the original back in the pump and used one of the fittings linked above. Worked like a charm.

[djw32]

Thanks for the link. Do you know which fitting you used?
P/N 11700 16mm to 3/8 x 45 deg. female inverted

P/N 11710 18mm to 3/8 x 45 deg. female inverted

P/N 11715 16mm & 18mm ( pair )

[Thealien]

When I called them they seemed very knowledgeable and told me what I needed. They were right. I think the pump takes 18mm?

[glock35ipsc]

What was the problem with the cruise?

[Thealien]

I was using a simple on off toggle for the off/on

I was using a simple momentary toggle on/off/on for the set/coast and resume/accel functions. While testing I noticed that while I was getting a full 12 volts to the set/coast or resume/accel depending on which direction I was pushing the on/off/on switch. Upun further testing I noticed the opposing side was also getting 3-4 volts. I guess the cheap switch was malfunctioning (rang out with an ohm meter fine?). I removed the resume/accel wire from the switch and now the set/coast functions perfectly. I either need to find a quality on/off/on switch or I am probably just going to get 2 momentary toggle or pushbutton switches, one for each function. For now having the set/coast function working proves that my VSS and TCC sw are both operational.

[glock35ipsc]

Good work on the diagnostics!

I sent you a PM too.....

[jpstaub]

"I hope to get a few things on the list done each week after work and a big thing or two on the weekend. I hope to hear it run in 6-8 weeks but that is not set in stone. It is running and driveable. My heater core is leaking and I have a lean bank 1 DTC I am struggling with"


Did you manage to figure out the lean bank 1 DTC (was it P0171 by chance?)? I'm having the same problem with my swap. I've replaced the intake manifold gaskets and tightened up the exhaust system to eliminate audible leaks to no avail. When I clear the code out it stays away for a while then eventually comes back. Bank 1 O2 sensor looks good while I'm driving down the road. The last time I checked it at idle it wasn't acting the same as Bank 2. I've swapped the Bank 1 O2 sensor out and the behavior is the same suggesting the sensor itself is good. Any input would be appreciated. Note: I put a mild cam in the engine and it looks like the computer is compensating by raising fuel trims in Bank 1 and 2. For some reason, Bank 1 is broaching the DTC threshold for trim (around 23%) forcing a P0171.

Best wishes,
Jake

[332rick]

I have a question what radiator did you use in this install.
I like to also delete the reservoir in my LS Swap.

Please let me know or advice what make or modle used in this picture.

Thanks !

[Kawabuggy]

I, too, would like to know what you are doing about the reservoir. I've already dropped a built 5.3LS into my '70 with an electric fan, and new radiator. To wrap up the cooling system, I either need to mount a reservoir, or figure out how to run without one. Since the factory used them, I thought I should too.

I've already found a 2012 Chevy Cruze coolant reservoir that is much smaller than the factory truck style. Thinking I will use that as it will generally blend in better under the hood. The truck res. is HUGE!!!!!! and ugly!!!!!!

Beautiful work on your vehicle so far! I like that you did not have to trim your frame rails to get the factory exhaust manifolds to clear. I mounted my engine a bit too far forward and ended up having to trim a little bit out of each frame rail in order to drop the motor in with the manifolds already bolted on.