front disk brake 6 lug conversion kit install question

[cknfrmr]

I bought the 6 lug front disk brake conversion kit that is sold on Ebay from POL. The kit looks very simple as it has very few parts and has installed easy so far. But I cant figure out how the caliper mounts as it does not have any instructions with it. I have tried to search the forum for pics but have failed at that as well. It has to be simple and Im sure its easy to mount. Can anyone help me out with pics of how it mounts or a link to instructions PLEASE? My brain hurts and have had a lot of bad luck on this build the last few months. Thanks for your time.

[AussieinNC]

https://www.performanceonline.com/bl...-bolt-pattern/

This link is for 5 lug...should be same for 6 lug...Bill

[franken II]

I think normal orientation on most any caliper is to the rear and make sure the bleeded screws ar pointing up.

[cknfrmr]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

https://www.performanceonline.com/bl...-bolt-pattern/

This link is for 5 lug...should be same for 6 lug...Bill

I see the problem now. I don't have the bracket. There is the problem. Thanks a million.

[oneperfectrun]

Originally Posted by cknfrmr

I bought the 6 lug front disk brake conversion kit that is sold on Ebay from POL. The kit looks very simple as it has very few parts and has installed easy so far. But I cant figure out how the caliper mounts as it does not have any instructions with it. I have tried to search the forum for pics but have failed at that as well. It has to be simple and Im sure its easy to mount. Can anyone help me out with pics of how it mounts or a link to instructions PLEASE? My brain hurts and have had a lot of bad luck on this build the last few months. Thanks for your time.

This doesn’t help with your question but just something I thought about and wanted to mention. I did the 6 lug disc conversion on my truck a few years back. I can’t remember the vendor on this kit but I did run into a problem with the conversion this past spring. I have the Chevy 8” ralley wheels and I had a flat on the left front. When I put the original wheel spare on the wheel wouldn’t roll. The rim was making contact with the caliper if I’m remembering correctly. Just wanted to throw that out there to you. Luckily I was at home when I found this out.

[demian5]

Did you get this?
https://www.performanceonline.com/60...ent-kit-6-lug/


The other link on the thread its the similar to the scarebird kit I installed.
I had to grind my calipers to make the wheels work.
The rotors rub the top big bolt I believe on full locked turns - not sure. They told me I have bent spindles...
You can never get all of the play out of the bearings because the sleeve on the outer end for the bearing isn't tight enough to do that. Looks like your dont need the sleeves...

Let me know if you experience the same thing.

[cknfrmr]

Originally Posted by demian5

Did you get this?
https://www.performanceonline.com/60...ent-kit-6-lug/


The other link on the thread its the similar to the scarebird kit I installed.
I had to grind my calipers to make the wheels work.
The rotors rub the top big bolt I believe on full locked turns - not sure. They told me I have bent spindles...
You can never get all of the play out of the bearings because the sleeve on the outer end for the bearing isn't tight enough to do that. Looks like your dont need the sleeves...

Let me know if you experience the same thing.

I just got off the phone with them. Said I have to buy new spindles that have the holes on them to mount the calipers. This is a component kit. Its made to replace a old disk brake kit or a heavy duty drum brake kit. I just don't get it. If I had disk brakes already why would I need this kit? Also said does not come with the brackets like the 5 lug kit. Its a whole different set up. Again I don't understand it.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by cknfrmr

I just got off the phone with them. Said I have to buy new spindles that have the holes on them to mount the calipers. This is a component kit. Its made to replace a old disk brake kit or a heavy duty drum brake kit. I just don't get it. If I had disk brakes already why would I need this kit? Also said does not come with the brackets like the 5 lug kit. Its a whole different set up. Again I don't understand it.

You have two different kits in these links.
One uses your original drum brake spindle to convert to disc.
The other is an upgrade to drilled and slotted rotors and red caliperfot looks.

Let’s start at the beginning.
What do you have and what do you want?
There are many threads that address swapping to disc brakes using 5-lug rotors.
There are many threads that address aftermarket 6-lug rotors.

The cheaper of the two uses your drum brake spindle.
I don’t consider this a highly used option.
Most convert to disc brake spindles be it stock height or dropped spindles.

Using conversion spindles is the easiest.
Using 71-72 or 73-87 spindles requires ball joint and tie rod changes and sometimes complete steering changes depending if you have a donor truck or not.
There are many ways to get there.
I’ve done it the easy way and the hard expensive way.
Post pics of what you have and we will get you pointed in the right direction.

And there are tons of threads that talk about stock pre-1971 6-lug 3-nub steel wheels not working with disc brake calipers.

Let’s stay on track and get your questions answered.

[cknfrmr]

ok here is what I have noticed after reading all the posts and talking to POL a few times and looking at spindles etc.
Stock spindles for 69 drum brakes that do not have anywhere to mount the calipers. I have the conversion kit that does not the red calipers. It has grey ones. After putting the disks on the spindles I have noticed they do not go all the way on and are rubbing on the top part of the spindle where there was a bolt that held some springs for the drum brakes. All signs are pointing towards me having to buy the after market drop spindles. Also I am running a set of slots on it that are aluminum. I have test fit the disk hubs with the calipers on them and they fit with no issues. So I am lucky in that area. Read about those problems. Sorry about lack of information. I am not good at express stuff in words which is why I have trouble getting help.

Looks to me from what I can see and tell gonna have to buy the drop spindles. Thanks again.

[lolife99]

I agree about buying disc brake specific spindle.
I was wondering how a disc brake rotor would have the correct size bearing to work with a drum brake spindle.
I noticed on POL’s website that their kit that uses the drum brake spindle also has a 5x4.75 car pattern rotor.
If I remember right these are Chevelle rotors.
I also think this kit uses a bearing spacer on the drum brake truck spindle.

The best option in my opinion is to buy 63-70 conversion spindles.
No ball joints to change.
No tie rods to change.

[cknfrmr]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I agree about buying disc brake specific spindle.
I was wondering how a disc brake rotor would have the correct size bearing to work with a drum brake spindle.
I noticed on POL’s website that their kit that uses the drum brake spindle also has a 5x4.75 car pattern rotor.
If I remember right these are Chevelle rotors.
I also think this kit uses a bearing spacer on the drum brake truck spindle.

The best option in my opinion is to buy 63-70 conversion spindles.
No ball joints to change.
No tie rods to change.

Im fixing to order the spindles now and quit wasting time with the front end all apart. It is what it is and its not gonna change by staring at it. lol

[68Gold/white]

As mentioned, beware of caliper clearance, not all wheels will work with disc brakes.

Before you order spindles, make sure they will work with the stuff you already have, or something better the company hopefully offers. I do NOT like the sounds of what you bought, and the excuses you are getting from the manufacturer!!!

I'd send the whole mess back you have, and get another brand kit.

71 and newer disc brake spindles take larger bearings than the 70 and earlier drum brake spindles. I would try to avoid using the old drum brake spindles, if at all possible.

Shop around, might have to pay more...but you get what you pay for, every time...

Hope all works out!!! Disc brakes are only way to go....

[AussieinNC]

Just a thought my young friend...

Make sure you get the correct master cylinder to run these new disk brakes up front...the drum master cylinders have a check valve in the line port to maintain a small amount of line pressure needed to keep the wheel cylinders working correctly.

You should also look at power booster and a brake bias valve to stop the backs locking up under increased pressure from the booster.

[cknfrmr]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Just a thought my young friend...

Make sure you get the correct master cylinder to run these new disk brakes up front...the drum master cylinders have a check valve in the line port to maintain a small amount of line pressure needed to keep the wheel cylinders working correctly.

You should also look at power booster and a brake bias valve to stop the backs locking up under increased pressure from the booster.

will do. thanks for that info. do you have any recommendations on that?

[AussieinNC]

There are plenty of threads on the forum dealing with disk brake conversions...just do a search on "disk brake booster" on the forum...

Most I have seen use 73 on parts like booster and master...and lines etc...

Also...the brake lines should be routed to the front to feed the new disks...take a look at LMC online parts manuals for brake line routing on 73 on trucks...it will give you an idea of what goes where...

I always try and source factory style parts over aftermarket to keep future costs under control...aftermarket kits are fine for some...I like to use factory stuff if at all possible.

You can always pm me if you need to...

Stay safe mate...

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Also...the brake lines should be routed to the front to feed the new disks...take a look at LMC online parts manuals for brake line routing on 73 on trucks...it will give you an idea of what goes where...
:

Why do you say this?
I have done many disk brake conversions using the stock brake lines and rubber hose locations.
ECE even makes a conversion hose to go in the stock 63-70 steel line location.
(Some say it’s just a stock second generation Camaro brake hose)

The 73-87 trucks mount the proportion valve way up in front of the crossmember. This requires either the stock 73-87 steel lines or tons of tubing bending.
This requires longer brake hoses.

The 67-72 trucks hang the prop valve directly uner the master cylinder, for a direct route to the crossmember.

[cknfrmr]

Ok here is where I'm at for now. Going to pump the brakes for lack of better words. Thought I did my homework on this what I thought was a simple swap out. Have ordered a pair of the Pro Suspension 2.5" drop spindles. Which to my best of understanding calipers mount on those. Here is where it gets cloudy to me. Have read the suggested posts. Thanks for all those. Now I need to get a master cylinder with a brake booster on it for a 71-87 year Chevy truck? That is my understanding. This is way more complex than I thought it was going to be. I think have bitten off more than I can chew, swallow and digest I believe.

I truly though it was just pop this old system off and bolt on the new. I know evey1 thinks Im a idiot that has read this post. Maybe I am. But I am learning a lot about different ways to look up how to projects.

[lolife99]

A 71-72 master cylinder and proportioning valve is a direct bolt on.
Many times you can find the factory booster mount in the classifieds section.
Here’s one:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ooster+bracket

The steel line routing down to your crossmember will be a little different unless you switch to 71-72 steel lines.
I usually just bend two new lines to connect to the 67-70 drum brake lines.

[lolife99]

This is a good thread too,...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ooster+bracket

[lolife99]

Another good thread with pics,...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ooster+bracket

[jocko]

Originally Posted by oneperfectrun

This doesn’t help with your question but just something I thought about and wanted to mention. I did the 6 lug disc conversion on my truck a few years back. I can’t remember the vendor on this kit but I did run into a problem with the conversion this past spring. I have the Chevy 8” ralley wheels and I had a flat on the left front. When I put the original wheel spare on the wheel wouldn’t roll. The rim was making contact with the caliper if I’m remembering correctly. Just wanted to throw that out there to you. Luckily I was at home when I found this out.

Whew! Glad you were at home too. You probably know all this by now, since you've experienced it - but your spare wheel, if original, is not a disk brake wheel. Rallies work, 71+ K5/K10 wheels work (which can "generally" be identified by the presence of 4 cap retaining nubs rather than the 3 on older wheels), but 70 and earlier 6 lugs wheels do not clear calipers. Mostly posting for others' awareness, you've already lived this dream. There are aftermarket steelies that clear calipers as a last resort if someone can't find a single disk brake compatible 6 lug steelie. There are getting harder and harder to find - 71+K5/K10 wheels are horded as full sets of 4 or 5 for just this reason. I've got my pc'ed K10 wheels in the closet, all 5 of em, for just that perfect opportunity some day.... Thanks for sharing - this is a good lesson learned.