350 + 700R4 tranny install tips, anyone?

[guyryan100]

The '67 will be at the body shop for a while and that leaves nothing but research for me to do. So the next step will be (hopefully and with the board's help) putting in a 350 and a 700r4 tranny. The install looks complicated to me... anyone done this and live to tell about it? I plan to do both the engine and tranny at once and get it over with. I'm not sure where to start.

Advice?

[RShaips]

I am also going to do this to my 67. I have located an 88 700R4 with torque converter from an IROC Camaro that I can buy for a $100.00, I have a 383 with powergide tranny in it now. I know that you have to move the crossmember back about 2" and shorten the driveshaft, also have an adapter on the carb for the TV cable. There is also some kind of elctric or manual switch to engage the lockup on the converter ? Otherwise I am in the dark.

[Longhorn Man]

Look in the FAQ section, lots of info.
Also try a search, this is covered every few weeks.

[ckhd]

I survived. It's not that bad. I did it in my '72 K10 'burb.

You gotta get the TV cable right.

I got my tranny (and other things) from bowtie overdrives. They have a "TV Made Easy" kit that hooked right on to my quadrajet. They also had a wiring kit for the torque converter, and a shift linkage that went in very easy.

Since I had a 4 wheel drive, I moved the engine forward 1 3/4" instead of redoing the drivelines & mount points. It was just a lot less work in my case. If I had done it in a 2wd, I probably would have cut the driveline.

[skid]

I was just wondering how you liked Bow Tie Overdrive's 700R4. They have quoted me one for my Blazer. They seem to have very good customer service. How did everything work out? Did they have good installation instructions? How's the quality of their work? How'd the adaptor work?

(I'm not trying to hijack this thread)

[chevyhouse]

I was very impressed with BTO, great customer service, great tranny. Best I found and I did alot of research.

[guyryan100]

The tech artical on the board that discusses switching to an automatic (doesn't specify which automatic) suggests that the crossmember should just be removed rather than moving it back 2". also, is there an advantage in setting the engine forward to avoid having to adjust the crossmember or drive shaft?

[guyryan100]

Here's the FAQ thread that has a lot of info on the conversion:
700r4 converstion

[Bowtie67]

Originally Posted by guyryan100

The tech artical on the board that discusses switching to an automatic (doesn't specify which automatic) suggests that the crossmember should just be removed rather than moving it back 2". also, is there an advantage in setting the engine forward to avoid having to adjust the crossmember or drive shaft?

This crossmember they are refering to is the original that came with the standard transmission and bolts to the Bell Housing. If you are running this current setup like I was go to the junkyard and pull a crossmember from an automatic setup. I think the hardest parts are running the Trans lines and gettng the TV cable properly adjusted. I gained at least 6mpg switching.

[ckhd]

Originally Posted by skid

I was just wondering how you liked Bow Tie Overdrive's 700R4. They have quoted me one for my Blazer. They seem to have very good customer service. How did everything work out? Did they have good installation instructions? How's the quality of their work? How'd the adaptor work?

(I'm not trying to hijack this thread)

I got the level 3 transmission. I'm not pumping out 600hp, but my theory in life is to get it stronger than you'll ever need, and it will last longer.

Anyway, there are a few things to consider with BO.

1) The level 3 tranny shifts VERY firm. It's OK, but it would be nice if it was a little less firm - just my taste. I wanted the level 3 because of the really strong aftermarket parts they put in.
2) You absolutely MUST have a plate-style tranny cooler for them to warranty the transmission. I was having overheating issues, and I even bought a new radiator, and they said it was because of the 'pipe' style. Nobody makes a radiator with the plate style tranny cooler anymore. I bought a Modine 4-core, and before I even took it out of the box, I had a tranny shop put in a 7-plate cooler in the side.

They have pretty detailed instructions on basic installation procedures. The torque converter installation instructions are probably 3 pages worth. It is a critical thing to get right, and if you don't get it right, it will destroy the tranny in no time. The instructions don't give specific installation instructions (like... for a '72 swb two wheel drive, do this...). It's more along the lines of: "Call your driveline shop and ask them how they measure driveshaft lengths. Typically, it's this way. Measure the length, then take your driveshaft to them to cut it down." They were always willing to answer my questions if I called them (I did call them a few times).

The adapter I think you are talking about is the custom output shaft so that it will mate to a NP205 that is currently on your TH-350? It was perfect. Fit like a NP205 was the only t-case the transmission was designed for.

The tranny has been good. I haven't had any problems with it (once I got it cooled down).

You'll need a strong engine. A targetmaster 350 probably won't give you the results you are looking for.

The advantages of moving the engine forward is that you don't have to change transmission/transfer case mounting, or driveshaft lenght. The disadvantage is that you make the nose even heavier. Not a huge deal in a suburban that has all that weight in the rear anyway, but in a 2wd short bed, it could make a noticeable difference in handling.