Disc brake setup Question

[Patch]

I'm looking at a 1972 C10 disc brake set-up(5 lug) rotor to rotor and everything in between (cross-member) for $200. That seems like a pretty decent deal doesn't it? Looking to drop in into my 69.

[jocko]

Yes but don’t forget the hidden cost of the rear being 6 lug still. Can either carry 2 spares, or roll the dice on not getting the wrong flat tire, or do a 5 lug rear axle conversion. This is why some folks just opt for an aftermarket 6 lug front disk kit. But the 71-72 factory setup is sure nice to have and there are some inexpensive 5 lug axle conversion kits out there.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Patch

I'm looking at a 1972 C10 disc brake set-up(5 lug) rotor to rotor and everything in between (cross-member) for $200. That seems like a pretty decent deal doesn't it? Looking to drop in into my 69.

What do you plan to re-use of this $200 purchase?
In my opinion the only item that don’t need replaced are the spindles, dust shields and the center link.
Everything else is wore out.
You need all new brake components and steering linkage.
Also what about the a-arm bushings and ball joints?

Buy some 63-70 conversion spindles for your 69,... and buy the rest new.
Reuse your 69 a-arms, centerlink, etc.
you will still need to switch the master cylinder and proportioning valve out for the disc brake version.

Just my 2 cents,... but I think crossmember swaps are over unless the donor parts are in good condition.

[Patch]

Looking at the donor truck, i just realized it has manual disc brakes. Should I still grab the prop valve? My 69 has power drums, but I believe the MC is different from drum to disc(bore size?) While I would agree with you Keith, changing everything over at one time, even if I have to go back and rebuild one side at a time has it's advantages for me time wise. If I do the cross-member swap, I'll need to pull the engine or use a steel engine support bar correct?

[lolife99]

Just remember that tie rods and ball joints are different between the 67-70 trucks and the 71-72 trucks. So is the center link and tie rod sleeves.
Engine frame stands are the same. You will need the disc brake prop valve since your 69 is just a distribution block.
M/c will need to be swapped to the disc brake version. I suggest a 71-72 model or aftermarket.
Personally I wouldn’t change the crossmember itself unless you plan to use 71-72!steel brake lines. They route differently to the front side.
But there are ways to address that without swapping the crossmember itself.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Just remember that tie rods and ball joints are different between the 67-70 trucks and the 71-72 trucks. So is the center link and tie rod sleeves.
Engine frame stands are the same. You will need the disc brake prop valve since your 69 is just a distribution block.
M/c will need to be swapped to the disc brake version. I suggest a 71-72 model or aftermarket.
Personally I wouldn’t change the crossmember itself unless you plan to use 71-72!steel brake lines. They route differently to the front side.
But there are ways to address that without swapping the crossmember itself.

Yes, X2!!!

Get all the steering components, center link, tie rod parts, steering gear box if possible. Unbolt everything from the frame.

As Keith mentioned the cross member is not needed, but 6 or 8 bolts will allow you to drop everything except the steering parts.

I have a couple of manual disc m/cyls from salvage yards for my 67 and 68, when that day comes. I cut the steel brake lines below the m/cyl and take m/cyl and prop valve all together. May not hurt the get the push rod that's attached to the brake pedal.

Keith, is the push rod different? I was wondering, was reading a thread here. I did not get them off parts vehicles that I robbed manual disc m/cyl's from....

[Patch]

The truck is manual steering as well....I think there is 2 items on the SPID for this truck....lol. But if I get it, I'll grab all I can from the steering arm down, the prop valve and as many lines as I can.

[randy500]

I have done the switch a couple of times, I always change the complete crossmember with brake lines intact.
Drum brake crossmember had the metal tab for the brake hose in a different location and I think it is generally just different.
Yes you need the proportioning valve and the lines to the master cylinder. Get both front and rear lines and unhook the rear line at the connection just behind the crossmember on the passenger side. It should screw right into your existing rear line.

If your considering drop spindles then maybe its not such a good deal, then you just need dust shields and center link then all new tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves. If 73 and up stuff is cheaper then use it, the outer tie rod is different as well as the upper ball joint.

[custom10nut]

Scare bird has a kit for about the same price, and it’s all new. The only thing the kit doesn’t have in it is the brake hoses