Brake indicator - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

atcavage · 05-10-2004, 11:29 PM

My brake light indicator is stuck on! It has to be electrical because nothing is wrong with the brakes because I just took it into the brake shop. Unless they broke something... Ideas would be great because I'd rather not disable the light.

jhow66 · 05-10-2004, 11:35 PM

Disconnect the wire under your master cylinder that hooks to the metering value. If it goes out the metering valve needs to be centered. Your brake shop failed to do this if they workrd on your brakes. (was it on when you took it to them?)

Longhorn Man · 05-10-2004, 11:39 PM

Unplug the wire on the parking brake.
If the light goes out, then adjust/replace switch, or fix your parking brake.

If the light stays on, then unplug the wire from the proportioning valve.
If the light goes out, then you need to bleed, fill, or reset the valve. (stom on pedal like in a panic stop)
If the light stays on, with both plugs disconected, then you have an electrical problem, follow the wires that you unplugged and see if it is melted/cut/mutilated at one point and grounding out on some metal.
Still lit? Unplug the light...You'll know when you have a brake problem.

(for the record...I do not recomend that last step...even though I have done it on my own junk in the past)

Johnny Outdoors · 05-11-2004, 10:16 PM

new style brake switches have springs to center the spool valve when the brakes are bled
older style must be bled while watching the light go out
that is if the above checks point to the electrical system as being ok
the switch works when there is a pressure difference in the system such as a blown line or wheel cylinder it turns the light on the spool travels to one end of the switch and makes contact with the light sensor
when you repair the leak the spool part of the switch must be manually balanced again
this is done by bleeding system unti light is off
hope this helps

atcavage · 05-12-2004, 05:01 PM

The panic stop thing worked great. Thanks a lot. Would the valve/light be any indication as to why my NEW brakes squeak so damn much?

Longhorn Man · 05-12-2004, 05:13 PM

Nope. None at all.
Are your front drums rivited to the hub?
I just replaced my front drums with brand new ones and there is no way I was going to rivit them onto the hub, but now they squeal like crazy...probably related.

05-10-2004, 11:29 PM	#1
atcavage Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Camarillo, Ca Posts: 79	Brake indicator My brake light indicator is stuck on! It has to be electrical because nothing is wrong with the brakes because I just took it into the brake shop. Unless they broke something... Ideas would be great because I'd rather not disable the light. __________________ 1972 1/2 ton Chevy C10 V-8 350, crate engine, with Flomaster dual exhaust. She's Old Blue the Truckinator (no relation to Arnold )

05-10-2004, 11:35 PM	#2
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Disconnect the wire under your master cylinder that hooks to the metering value. If it goes out the metering valve needs to be centered. Your brake shop failed to do this if they workrd on your brakes. (was it on when you took it to them?) __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

05-11-2004, 10:16 PM	#4
Johnny Outdoors SOON TO BE A STEP SIDE Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Little Valley, N.Y. Posts: 169	new style brake switches have springs to center the spool valve when the brakes are bled older style must be bled while watching the light go out that is if the above checks point to the electrical system as being ok the switch works when there is a pressure difference in the system such as a blown line or wheel cylinder it turns the light on the spool travels to one end of the switch and makes contact with the light sensor when you repair the leak the spool part of the switch must be manually balanced again this is done by bleeding system unti light is off hope this helps __________________ 67 CHEVY LONGBED----- BEST 51 DOLLARS EVER SPENT ON EBAY! 4.3 LITER INJECTED MOTOR WITH 5 SPEED GOING IN SOON

05-12-2004, 05:01 PM	#5
atcavage Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Camarillo, Ca Posts: 79	The panic stop thing worked great. Thanks a lot. Would the valve/light be any indication as to why my NEW brakes squeak so damn much? __________________ 1972 1/2 ton Chevy C10 V-8 350, crate engine, with Flomaster dual exhaust. She's Old Blue the Truckinator (no relation to Arnold )

05-10-2004, 11:39 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Unplug the wire on the parking brake. If the light goes out, then adjust/replace switch, or fix your parking brake. If the light stays on, then unplug the wire from the proportioning valve. If the light goes out, then you need to bleed, fill, or reset the valve. (stom on pedal like in a panic stop) If the light stays on, with both plugs disconected, then you have an electrical problem, follow the wires that you unplugged and see if it is melted/cut/mutilated at one point and grounding out on some metal. Still lit? Unplug the light...You'll know when you have a brake problem. (for the record...I do not recomend that last step...even though I have done it on my own junk in the past)

05-12-2004, 05:13 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Nope. None at all. Are your front drums rivited to the hub? I just replaced my front drums with brand new ones and there is no way I was going to rivit them onto the hub, but now they squeal like crazy...probably related.



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