Spring Swap Thread - 1963 K15

[Brad54]

Looks great!
On the tubing for the notch, it's got some pretty sharp corners at the ends.

The guy I learned to fabricate from, told me he never, ever puts a sharp corner on any of his parts, especially under the vehicle, because you always end up catching your head or hands on the corner.

All my stuff has rounded corners for that reason... still hurts like hell when you whack one with your head, but doesn't plow a trough through your dome, and I never open my hand on the back of one when I'm working near it.

-Brad

[jeffahart]

Nice work, you keep busy! I was wondering, why so many leafs. I thought the new 7.4s are about the same weight as the old (all iron everything) SBC. So all you got extra is the winch. I'm running 120 lbs of winch and am running crapjacker softrides. The're not too bad now that the winch has compressed them! Now that I've opened my mouth I'll probably break a leaf. I better run out there and take a look if one ain't already cracked!

Also, I've been meaning to ask. On your hydraulic winch install, how is the Power Steering pump flow control valve mod working. How is your steering on highway at speed. Did you get a stock replacement pump for your year or is it later model with more pressure? I thought about posting the question on the winch post, but since you are active on this thread I decided to do some hijacking. I'm in the middle of a hydroboost install and I really had a disaster(I am ashamed, long story) and now need to pull my pump(a filthy job on my truck) and I'm just going to replace it while it's out. I am thinking of doing the mod(2 1/4" spring stretch, 5/16" ream and remove any washers).

Thanks!

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work! I'm having some issues finding used 63" 3/4 ton springs around here for some reason.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by Brad54

Looks great!
On the tubing for the notch, it's got some pretty sharp corners at the ends.

The guy I learned to fabricate from, told me he never, ever puts a sharp corner on any of his parts, especially under the vehicle, because you always end up catching your head or hands on the corner.

All my stuff has rounded corners for that reason... still hurts like hell when you whack one with your head, but doesn't plow a trough through your dome, and I never open my hand on the back of one when I'm working near it.

-Brad

I knew someone would catch the sharp edges! I had burned up my last grinder disc and the wife was on my butt to get it finished for the trip. Those corners are on the punch list and will probably get ground down as soon as I lay open my forehead the first time

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Nice work, you keep busy! I was wondering, why so many leafs. I thought the new 7.4s are about the same weight as the old (all iron everything) SBC. So all you got extra is the winch. I'm running 120 lbs of winch and am running crapjacker softrides. The're not too bad now that the winch has compressed them! Now that I've opened my mouth I'll probably break a leaf. I better run out there and take a look if one ain't already cracked!

Yeah the cracked front springs have me continually looking at the front suspension. I think I've got it right now. Would be nice to have a military wrap on the front springs although many have said it's not needed. I guess it's an OCD I have about front suspension after losing a kingpin on the freeway doing 70.

Also, I've been meaning to ask. On your hydraulic winch install, how is the Power Steering pump flow control valve mod working. How is your steering on highway at speed. Did you get a stock replacement pump for your year or is it later model with more pressure? I thought about posting the question on the winch post, but since you are active on this thread I decided to do some hijacking. I'm in the middle of a hydroboost install and I really had a disaster(I am ashamed, long story) and now need to pull my pump(a filthy job on my truck) and I'm just going to replace it while it's out. I am thinking of doing the mod(2 1/4" spring stretch, 5/16" ream and remove any washers).

Thanks!

Funny you ask Jeff. That darned pump has been flawless since installed. I like the response and power at low speed but not sure what you mean about highway speed though? Seems normal to me.

I bought one for a '97 3500 truck. It has the extra hydroboost return port that I have capped. Well..... this morning, while picking up the boat trailer to pull the boat out of the lake, I noticed that something was leaking. It was that damn cap! It had cracked. With minimal tools, a small piece of 3/8 PCV hose that I cut off of the boat and in the 101 deg sun in the boat trailer parking lot I thought I had it fixed.

Got home from the 4 hour tow and noticed that the driver's wheel well, new front axle and most of the drivers side of the boat are now rust proof

Guess I may go the hydroboost route as well so I don't have to mess with that darned plug again! As far as the mods, I think that the pressure MIGHT have been boosted a little by the spring but the drilling of the valve was solely for flow to the winch. Pretty sure that I had to snag the valve off of the old pump to make the hoses work. Good thing is that the hose connections may be metric but the valve to pump body threads are all the same as far as I can tell.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work! I'm having some issues finding used 63" 3/4 ton springs around here for some reason.

I really don't see them that often either but I'd bet you can call a wrecker for a set. I think the rock crawler guys are mostly looking for the 1/2 ton springs for the articulation so it doesn't seem that the 3/4s are advertised much.

I do like the springs BUT, as soon as the boat was put onto the tongue, it hit the overloads which made for a less than expected ride on anything other than a perfectly paved road. I really don't want to bag this thing but don't like towing with it the way it rides.

[jeffahart]

Was just wondering if the steering became sensitive to the touch at cruising RPM. Sound like it's OK. I'm keeping my old flow control valve to modify. I'm going to run the new pump for a while, then I will test the modified valve when I flush the system after a few hundred miles.

thanks,
j

[dinobody]

I have a 62 suburban 4x4. And i was planning to do a spring swap using a 6in lift for a square body chevy. I know the mounts and the shackles will have to be relocated. Just wonder how high a 6in kit will raise my Suburban? I am thinking 4in. Thanks for the input. Doug

[Benjamin]

subscribing

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by dinobody

I have a 62 suburban 4x4. And i was planning to do a spring swap using a 6in lift for a square body chevy. I know the mounts and the shackles will have to be relocated. Just wonder how high a 6in kit will raise my Suburban? I am thinking 4in. Thanks for the input. Doug

Couldn't honestly tell you. The rear 63" we're from a 2500 truck. I didn't gain but maybe 1/2" over what my stock height was.

The fronts ended up being a hybrid of the original 1963 and the 1974 1/2t rear leaf packs and again MAYBE 1/2" over what the original factory height of the truck was.

Lots of trial and error. Just gotta try it I guess.

[dinobody]

Thanks. Love your truck.

['63GENIII]

Thanks Dino. You know, I was in a bit of a rush when I replied the first time but Ive been thinking a little more about it. You're asking about a set of 6" x 52" springs in the front right?

We are only talking front spring swap here.

My front springs are (somewhat) stock 1/2 ton rear springs. They are a combination of the '74 main spring with the eyes and a few of the original 1963 K15 leafs peppered in for ride quality and BC I had broken a couple of the others.

Currently, my truck currently sits 1/2" to 3/4" higher than it did when it was stock (pre spring shackle swap). The "kit" I used came with 6" shackles for the rear of the front leafs. The front spring mount is in exactly the same location as before.

Its pretty widely known that the '60-'66 K trucks sat a little higher from the factory.

IMO, the front swap doesn't give a lot of lift in and of itself with stock springs. Lets say an inch or so just for S&G.

I would think that if you used a 6" spring lift on the front of the Burb, you might end up at 6+ (maybe 7") when all is said and done.

There may be a benefit hidden in this though. IIRC, most lift springs tend to be a little shorter from eye to eye than their stock counterparts. If you are running something similar to the B52s, you will have the ability to locate your axle a little better and also tailor shackle angle to suit your need / wants.

I keep imagining 6 more inches of lift on my truck... maybe if i was 20 years younger.

[dinobody]

Thanks for the input. I was thinking that the square body trucks had 52 in front springs this whole time. Well i got a tape out and measured one and found out 47in on front and 52in rear. I have some more planning to do. I really wanted to buy springs that are designed to work together. The way you did the front and rear brackets is awsome. I am planning on doing the same. I just need to figure out what springs. I want to get about 4in front and rear lift. I plan on running 37in tires. ORU does some pretty flexy springs and thats what I am looking for.Now i am wondering if you did two sets of rear if they would work well together. I have a set of one ton axles and a 12valve cummins all this will happen at the same time. I am just trying to get all my ducks lined up. Thanks for your thoughts. Doug

['63GENIII]

12v Cummins? Hmmm. Those things are pretty heavy yeah? How do they compare to a BBC weight wise?

Im guessing being that its a '62 Suburban, that many of the tweaks that I did to the '63 may work for you. If you want, I could get some measurements - frame to axles, radiator support and rear (front axle) shackle numbers.

It should be close to the same Im thinking.

Do the 62 Burbs have a different frame than the 63 up Burbs? Ive heard that the pickup frames changed from 62 to 63.

[dinobody]

The 12v is about 1000lb so alot more than a bbc. Ord dose custom springs for diesel conversions on there reg front 47in springs. I was planning on talking to them about how there rear spring rate compairs to a diesel custom front spring. I don't know if my frame is different from yours. It looks pretty much the same. The 1ton axles are a perfect match. or at least the perchs are. my guess is the rear perchs might have to be changed to get the correct drive shaft angle.

[dinobody]

What year blazer is your fuel tank out of?

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by dinobody

The 12v is about 1000lb so alot more than a bbc. Ord dose custom springs for diesel conversions on there reg front 47in springs. I was planning on talking to them about how there rear spring rate compairs to a diesel custom front spring. I don't know if my frame is different from yours. It looks pretty much the same. The 1ton axles are a perfect match. or at least the perchs are. my guess is the rear perchs might have to be changed to get the correct drive shaft angle.

Man, that is gonna be pretty impressive when done!

Originally Posted by dinobody

What year blazer is your fuel tank out of?

IIRC it was out of an '89.

[Brad54]

Dino: one thing to factor in with your Suburban is there is a lot more weight on the rear springs than there is with a pick-up. More sheet metal, seats, and a lot more glass.

I don't know what it'd be comparable to with 4x4 leaf springs, but I know this: On my '61 2x4, I bought lowering coil springs for a pick-up truck, and it dropped the back of the Suburban too far. I installed stock-spec (but new) pick-up truck coils, and it dropped the back of my truck several inches--which is the look I was going for.

Our Suburbans carry a lot more weight in the ass than pickup trucks, and the springs were different than pick-ups from the factory.

-Brad

[Captainfab]

The '60-'66 K series frames are basically the same. Just some minor differences.

[dinobody]

Originally Posted by Brad54

Dino: one thing to factor in with your Suburban is there is a lot more weight on the rear springs than there is with a pick-up. More sheet metal, seats, and a lot more glass.

I don't know what it'd be comparable to with 4x4 leaf springs, but I know this: On my '61 2x4, I bought lowering coil springs for a pick-up truck, and it dropped the back of the Suburban too far. I installed stock-spec (but new) pick-up truck coils, and it dropped the back of my truck several inches--which is the look I was going for.

Our Suburbans carry a lot more weight in the ass than pickup trucks, and the springs were different than pick-ups from the factory.

-Brad

I am gonna have ORD custom make the front and rear springs. With the cummins and the extra weight of the Sub in the rear. 63 in the rear is gonna be a ton of extra work. The body mounts are in a bad spot front and rear. hope it is worth it.

[RDrancher]

Hey Chris, just came across your thread while searching for info on taking my '64 from 2WD to 4WD. I was debating either a later model frame swap, or making mods to the original frame to get long, soft springs like I had on my springover FJ40. It's been 15 years or so since I've been up on all the aftermarket goodies and I learned a bunch from this thread. Thanks for all the great info and links!