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Old 10-02-2018, 12:46 AM   #1
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
Does the drum of the rotor cover the brake shoe? On my setup the flange of the axle is just barely outside of the metal of the shoe. The flange actually fits inside the shoe to get the c-clips on in the diff.
Yup, it’s as deep in there as it will go without contacting anything. I actually moved the backing plate out another 1/16th after taking this picture with no interference. It is as close as I’m comfortable with at the back of the studs/lever mechanism area. The contact surface of the shoe is fully within the drum, but just barely. Thankfully, it’s just a parking brake and (knock on wood) will never see any real braking action, else I’d like to see the shoe better centered in the drum.

When I put it together for the last time, I will have to slide the axles in, install the c-clips, then final assemble the parking brake setup to the axle housing. Using car pattern axles is definitely the way to go to make this easy. Maybe when I get ready to buy wheels I’ll swap to 5x4.75. For some reason, I feel like a set of 315/35-20s would fill out the rear nicely
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

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Old 10-08-2018, 11:51 PM   #2
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Welp, I got the brakes all final assembled and working, but it turns out my 40-something year old axles’ flanges are bent. Allowable runout is around .003 when running discs and mine are visibly wobbling, which causes the rotors to knock the pads back in the calipers, resulting in soft pedal. No thanks. Add to that the very slight rub of the parking shoes inside the drums once per revolution, and the subsequent noise that would drive me crazy and I ended up buying new axles...

While I wait for Summit to deliver, I thought I’d take care of some things that have been bothering me for a while. Since I have the interior torn down, now is a good time to go about fixing my cut for DIN dash. I used some measurements I found here in the forum (sure hope they were right). I had it all bodyworked and primed, then my spot putty had a reaction with the primer, so I’m starting over on it tomorrow. Color and clear, soon.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:56 PM   #3
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Since I had some paint mixed up, hoping to shoot the dash, I went ahead and primed and base-coated the A/C vents, ashtray, and radio delete plate (might run it ‘til I find a radio). Much better than the chrome look, I think. They still need cleared, but look pretty good and the color is a good match to the dash
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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