Intake manifold recommendations

[Auroch]

Hey people, need some help deciding what intake manifold to get for a 350 5.7L engine. I'd like to get better performance than the stock. So far I was leaning towards an edelbrock 2101. I'm using an edelbrock carb (1406 600cfm). Seemed to make sense getting the same brand manifold, but just want to hear some opinions if possible. Cheers!

[Stocker]

Many years ago my stock cast-iron intake cracked and I replaced it with an Edelbrock 2101 (kept my stock Q-jet). No problems at all, but I honestly could not notice any difference in power or driveability. It worked just fine, but it felt the same to me.

[Auroch]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Many years ago my stock cast-iron intake cracked and I replaced it with an Edelbrock 2101 (kept my stock Q-jet). No problems at all, but I honestly could not notice any difference in power or driveability. It worked just fine, but it felt the same to me.

I see, yeah I've heard some people say they get slightly better fuel economy, who knows. I like the price and it's not full of gunk like my current one ha. I don't know much about intake manifolds. Maybe it's not worth paying a premium there...

[82C10step]

Edelbrock 2701 works a little better.

[68Gold/white]

Stock intake works very well on a 350, even a 400. 2101 will gain nothing.

One of the biggest bangs for the buck is a more performance oriented torque converter. You can't go crazy, having essentially a stock engine...but it will help!!!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Stock intake works very well on a 350, even a 400. 2101 will gain nothing.

One of the biggest bangs for the buck is a more performance oriented torque converter. You can't go crazy, having essentially a stock engine...but it will help!!!

Didn't know that. I'm ready to have my transmission run through, including a new converter. Perhaps an upgrade is in order. Slips right in I suppose, no other mods? 402/400TH

[Auroch]

Originally Posted by 82C10step

Edelbrock 2701 works a little better.

Dude yeah, I just read about this model, looks like you get a 5hp gain with the same carb I have! Many thanks.

[Stocker]

Chasing fuel economy seems to be a lost cause with these trucks....

Chasing performance is more fun, with the potential to empty your wallet often. Change something, then to use that to its full advantage you'll need to change something else....

A different cam can make a noticeable difference too. But you might need different heads to work with the cam for better breathing. And on & on, down that rabbit hole.

[sick472]

A lot of good advice already.

Check into the airgap style mani's like the 7501. I have had good luck with that style on a couple other builds (not Chevy builds). They allow you to push past the 5500 rpm if you want and still see gains. They are more expensive though.

I always consider port matching the intake and heads along with the exhaust too. This should yield good gains even if the port matching is what I call "poor-mans" porting. Don't worry about the polishing part, just open up the intake, exhaust, and heads to match the largest gasket openings you can get. Obviously, there is more to it than that, but you get the idea. I have always thought of port matching as "free" power so long as you have hours to spend with a good compressor, die grinding tools, safety glasses, and hearing protection.

To be quite frank about it...If I was not going to build the motor to go past 5500 rpm, I would save my money. The gains of throwing a couple hundred dollars worth of parts at it will not be a noticeable power increase. You will get a bit of a weight savings by going to aluminum and not much else. Now, if your intake needs to be replaced, by all means, go for the $150 edelbrock. There is nothing wrong with that!

A noticeable increase in HP, say 50 to 100 hp, will require higher performance parts including the intake and headers. Port-matching should not be ignored. Bumping compression to require 91 octane would be necessary to hit the 100 hp added mark. These opinions are assuming that the heads you have are middle of the road stock heads and not some small valved econo versions. Throw a street/strip cam in and your starting to get pulled back in the seat, given you have the traction available. I digress...into that rabbit hole!

Back to your real concern...bottom line is...if you are just replacing the intake and not adding a few more of the things I rambled about earlier, almost any name brand - affordable intake whether it's aluminum or iron will work just fine. You might even be able to save yourself some money if you took your original to the shop and had them hot-tank it and then shot it with some engine enamel.

[Auroch]

Originally Posted by sick472

A lot of good advice already.

Check into the airgap style mani's like the 7501. I have had good luck with that style on a couple other builds (not Chevy builds). They allow you to push past the 5500 rpm if you want and still see gains. They are more expensive though.

I always consider port matching the intake and heads along with the exhaust too. This should yield good gains even if the port matching is what I call "poor-mans" porting. Don't worry about the polishing part, just open up the intake, exhaust, and heads to match the largest gasket openings you can get. Obviously, there is more to it than that, but you get the idea. I have always thought of port matching as "free" power so long as you have hours to spend with a good compressor, die grinding tools, safety glasses, and hearing protection.

To be quite frank about it...If I was not going to build the motor to go past 5500 rpm, I would save my money. The gains of throwing a couple hundred dollars worth of parts at it will not be a noticeable power increase. You will get a bit of a weight savings by going to aluminum and not much else. Now, if your intake needs to be replaced, by all means, go for the $150 edelbrock. There is nothing wrong with that!

A noticeable increase in HP, say 50 to 100 hp, will require higher performance parts including the intake and headers. Port-matching should not be ignored. Bumping compression to require 91 octane would be necessary to hit the 100 hp added mark. These opinions are assuming that the heads you have are middle of the road stock heads and not some small valved econo versions. Throw a street/strip cam in and your starting to get pulled back in the seat, given you have the traction available. I digress...into that rabbit hole!

Back to your real concern...bottom line is...if you are just replacing the intake and not adding a few more of the things I rambled about earlier, almost any name brand - affordable intake whether it's aluminum or iron will work just fine. You might even be able to save yourself some money if you took your original to the shop and had them hot-tank it and then shot it with some engine enamel.

Man, reading all these comments do make me want to spend more. Very dangerous thread this is turning out to be. So to give you an idea, I'm about to replace my engine tomorrow, I don't have the luxury of spending too much, but I managed to get a higher performing crate reman by jasper. It comes with a better camshaft, can't remember the part number. It's the class 1, rated at 305hp, which is honestly great for what I intend to use the truck for. But.. I've been giving some thought at upgrading the transmission to a 700r4, maybe replacing the ram horns with headers. We'll see... step by step. And avoid being murdered by my wife.

[68 P.O.S.]

I recommend the Performer EPS (2701) or the Performer RPM (7101). The Edelbrock carbs are known for carb boil/percolation and flooding. For either intake, you're gonna need the 9266 heat insulator gasket to cure carb boiling. You'll also need to restrict fuel pressure to 5 or 5.5 psi to prevent flooding with a pressure regulator or the Edelbrock Performer RPM fuel pump (1721).

[LH Lead-Foot]

While reducing weight helps with fuel economy and lowers track ET, I used an aluminum OEM intake for spread bore carb, It's clean and flat, checked with Blue-Point straight edge and have one to part with cheap. I can get photos if needed.
Send me a "PM" if interested, we can use PayPal & you decide on shipping.
I don't know why, but listed on eBay as corvette intake, it's just dual plane and has external ribs, But works fine on SBC's to 400 cu. in. I am a Rochester guy with all of the tools. I understand the Holley thing as you can change the jets or power valve or accelerator pump diaphragm but once set, you usually don't mess with it every day.
The Q-jet gets a bad rap from many, but it is the only true variable venturi carb unless you want to count the Ford 7200 & 7300 VVC. Yes, I fix those as well. Can you saw "Water-Manometer" gauge?
You get performance with the secondaries open only when enough air volume pulls it open against spring tension once adjusted to book specs.
Yes, I have the book also, it's 7" thick. Say, lets set up a 4BBL carb for 1968 Corvette, it tells you the jet size, needle size, all adjustments & specs over OEM 12 pages for just that carb.
But who am I? A an old guy that has 2 large tubes of ACDelco points grease & SnapOn flex points adjustor tool, it's in the drawer with 6 distributor wrench's next to chrome Tach-Dwell meter & King-Pin adjustable reamer tool.

[Auroch]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

I recommend the Performer EPS (2701) or the Performer RPM (7101). The Edelbrock carbs are known for carb boil/percolation and flooding. For either intake, you're gonna need the 9266 heat insulator gasket to cure carb boiling. You'll also need to restrict fuel pressure to 5 or 5.5 psi to prevent flooding with a pressure regulator or the Edelbrock Performer RPM fuel pump (1721).

These are key tips man, definitely getting the gasket. So, I replaced the fuel pump with an oem spec AcDelco, I haven't had a flooding issue with it, at least during the year that I've been using it.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Didn't know that. I'm ready to have my transmission run through, including a new converter. Perhaps an upgrade is in order. Slips right in I suppose, no other mods? 402/400TH

Converter swap generally needs no other mods. Sometimes larger bolts are required to bolt converter to the flex plate, beware of that.

Not all converters are created equal, be VERY aware of that. I'd contact Cliff at www.cliffshighperfromance.com he is a converter dealer for a brand I do not remember. He will get you the converter you need, specifically tailored to your vehicle and driving needs. Buying one from one of the big performance warehouses can be a mistake....

[Mike C]

If it were mine, I would do the 2101 Edelbrock. Everyone else is correct in that you get no real gain by itself. I would then get the common 204/214 @ .050 cam which is what the Edelbrock Performer cam is. I think the Elgin line is a good value and you can get it from Competition Products or you can get the Summit branded one from Summit. Add a double roller chain while you are in there. I'd then install a 2 1/4" exhaust with some Dynomax turbo mufflers. That combined with a converter in the 1700-2000 rpm range should really wake up a 350.

$500 should get all of the above except exhaust install.

Intake, $150. Cam & Lifters $100, Timing chain, $30, Converter, $150. Mufflers $70. Just round numbers but awful close.

Edit: and a $50 HEI off Amazon or eBay if you haven't done electronic ignition yet.

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by Auroch

These are key tips man, definitely getting the gasket. So, I replaced the fuel pump with an oem spec AcDelco, I haven't had a flooding issue with it, at least during the year that I've been using it.

Glad I could help. This info, with part #'s, is in the carb literature, but Edelbrock doesn't make it stand out so much so a lot of people don't notice it or know about it. The flooding is hit or miss. Some people have issues with it right of the bat and normally install a regulator. Others have stock fuel pumps (which put out too much pressure) and never have a problem with it.

[Auroch]

Originally Posted by Mike C

If it were mine, I would do the 2101 Edelbrock. Everyone else is correct in that you get no real gain by itself. I would then get the common 204/214 @ .050 cam which is what the Edelbrock Performer cam is. I think the Elgin line is a good value and you can get it from Competition Products or you can get the Summit branded one from Summit. Add a double roller chain while you are in there. I'd then install a 2 1/4" exhaust with some Dynomax turbo mufflers. That combined with a converter in the 1700-2000 rpm range should really wake up a 350.

$500 should get all of the above except exhaust install.

Intake, $150. Cam & Lifters $100, Timing chain, $30, Converter, $150. Mufflers $70. Just round numbers but awful close.

Edit: and a $50 HEI off Amazon or eBay if you haven't done electronic ignition yet.

Thanks Mike, I'm gonna have to do some homework now. Definitely need to upgrade to EI.

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by Mike C

If it were mine, I would do the 2101 Edelbrock. Everyone else is correct in that you get no real gain by itself. I would then get the common 204/214 @ .050 cam which is what the Edelbrock Performer cam is. I think the Elgin line is a good value and you can get it from Competition Products or you can get the Summit branded one from Summit. Add a double roller chain while you are in there. I'd then install a 2 1/4" exhaust with some Dynomax turbo mufflers. That combined with a converter in the 1700-2000 rpm range should really wake up a 350.

$500 should get all of the above except exhaust install.

Intake, $150. Cam & Lifters $100, Timing chain, $30, Converter, $150. Mufflers $70. Just round numbers but awful close.

Edit: and a $50 HEI off Amazon or eBay if you haven't done electronic ignition yet.

Good call

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Converter swap generally needs no other mods. Sometimes larger bolts are required to bolt converter to the flex plate, beware of that.

Not all converters are created equal, be VERY aware of that. I'd contact Cliff at www.cliffshighperfromance.com he is a converter dealer for a brand I do not remember. He will get you the converter you need, specifically tailored to your vehicle and driving needs. Buying one from one of the big performance warehouses can be a mistake....

Good to know and THANKS. I'll order one.