removing cab?

[greasemonkey]

How exactly does a person pull a cab using an engine hoist? I know it can be done, but don't know how.
Also, does anyone have dimensions for making a cab dolly, or would I be better off making one from scratch? I am probably making it really long so I would be able to tilt the cab onto its back to work on the underside.
Thanks,
John

[Longhorn Man]

if it is a junk cab, just rin a chain through the doors or door openings, and hook it to the lift.
But that can/probably will damage the cab.

Get a 4X4 piece of lumber about 7 foot long, and put some eye hooks in the ends...not on the actual end, but towards the edge on the top surface. Then put that through the door openings (remove the doors if you intend on keeping the cab...gut the cab of all weight that you can BEFORE lifting) run the chain from one side to the other so the chain is sitting on the roof, and lift by that chain.

[greasemonkey]

Thanks Longhorn Man. That's what I was looking for.

[kevin from oc]

I pull the windshield and back glass, run a strap thru the windshield and out the back glass next i loop another strap thru the doors and hook the 4 ends together on the hook you can lift it that way and not damage anything...

[whitesswj]

i actually just took all the stuff out and off and raised the drivers side and just let it rest against the fence. it was a junk cab.

[68w/sbc406]

i just took a cab off using a cherry picker and i just ran a nylon tow strap through the cab with the windows down and picked it off. the nylon strap put two small dents on both doors, nothing that cant be fixed but there was still damage. all interior was out except the dash.

[Longhorn Man]

Those doors add quite a bit of weight. I have one beside my desk here in the basement without glass in it and I was kinda suprised how heavy it bacame on the way down here.
A strap may have kept the dents from happening by spreading the load over a couple inches of area for the force rather than a 1/2 inch area, but the piece of wood not only helps with area, but it doesn't wrap around the metal, which places force at another angle.

[jostrans68]

this is how I found out how to do it not sure whos truck but I haved moved 5-6 cabs w/o damage

[lock]

Thats similar to how I moved mine. I used a chain and bolts in the floor support holes and lifted it with an engine hoist!

[greasemonkey]

Hey that looks cool too-might work better for me. Did you just run some strong bolts through the holes with a bunch of washers?
Thanks guys,
John

[Longhorn Man]

Hmmm, make sure your seatbelt anchors are not rusting out...how would you keep the cab from flipping forward though? I can't see just drilling a hole for a 3rd chain, that would seem like too much weight for an unreenforced area.

[Robo_bot]

i built an a-frame for mine

[68w/sbc406]

the nylon strap i used was about 3 inches wide. i had never done it before. i like the multi-purpose swing set. thats bad a$$

[Clancy68]

you were also asking about a dolly for once you got it pulled? if so there are several ways to go about doing it the idea is the same regardless. heres what i did, my goal was to spend under 10 bucks... get a stong wood pallet. find an abandoned shopping cart a few block from the grocery store( i rationalize this becuase the bum stole it first ) take you shopping cart carefully cut the wheels off with a cutting torch, or sawzall. and attatch them to the bottom of the pallet. its best to counter sink a hole in the pallet and leave a little extra pipe on the shopping cart caster to feed it in to the hole, make it stronger, and in my case i ran a long bolt through the pallet for some added strength. the pallet (4x4) is a very nice size, throw an old pice of carpet on it and it works really good.

--Scott

[A few 72's]

Could not find the post, but I have seen where a brace was made and bolted in the door opening for replacing rockers. One side bolted to the latch position and the other to the top door hinge location to keep the opening the same. If you did both sides and then added at least two cross braces to have four attaching points for chain to run to the engine hoist it should balance the load. With this set up you would have the lifting point for the hoist at about the same location as you would for motor and should have plenty of travel for lifting the cab. Could also leave in place for support, if floor or rocker work is to be done.

Have seen about the same thing done when lifting a bed from a truck with a engine hoist, and having a H brace where center brace runs down the center of the bed with ataching points and the 4 ends go under the lip of the bed.

Also found this link started by Solver when looking for the door brace photo, that would work about the same way.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=96368

[A few 72's]

Found the pic I was looking for it was from the blazer section by orageuavlol. Would just need to add cross braces to attach the hoist to.

From post
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=95929

[Johnny Outdoors]

i used a 4x4 with cut outs for the weatherstrip seams at the top of the doors and a 3 inch strap

[Stepsides 4Ever]

I didn't plan on doing this, but the wife asked me, "Why not?", and I didn't have a good answer...

This is a section of warehouse racking inherited from a former employer that closed down. Overkill, but two 7' 4x4s through the doors, a 5/8" trucker's rope with a 2x4 deck-screwed to the 4x4s to keep the rope off the roof and drip rail. I've since bought another chain hoist (and strap, for lifting cab and clip ala Robo_bot). Once you see how quick and easy this is, you will see the advantages of being able to take the whole shootin' match off in an afternoon and still have time for a barbeque...

[68C10]

I did mine with eye bolts fish plated through the cab mounting holes. I did have a problem with the cab wanting to lean forward but I was able to make it work with my son guiding the front. I used 2 sections of chain through the eye bolts and picked them with an engine hoist. It worked pretty well.
When I put it back on I will rig it better to minimize the tilting. :p

[Duallie]

Jostrans68: That is my cab sitting on the engine crane. The beam is just a "T" of 2x6's with a central hole on the bottom that meshes with a bolt "spike" on the top of the crane boom.
Thanks for the acknowledgement!

[jostrans68]

No problem I have had that pic a long time and didnt remember whos it was, I do alot of work myself andthis has worked great as a one person tool. I also made a lift piece for the bed. thanks for the help Jack

[68C15]

another part of his question was how to support it on a dolly once off frame. I am curios about this myself as I am going to get spare cab to repair in a couple weeks. at that time I will need to position it so as to be able to replace cab floor supports. therfor a pallet wouldn't work, I think. also need to do rockers, floor pans, 'A' pillar bottoms, & cab corners. was thinking of making some form of frame work around whole cab attaching to the hinge bolt holes & strikers. then also have to make it moveable in & out of shop at work. (no garage at home) may even use it for lifting cab somehow.
any feedback on this?
thanks-Todd