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05-16-2004, 11:45 PM | #1 |
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Location: Houston, TX
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anyone switched to a 4 spd?
has anyone on here switched their truck from an auto to a manual? its not something i would be doing anytime soon. but it is just something i was thinking about doing down the road. i'd like to go to put like a close ratio muncie in it, i even have a buddy that has what i think is one sitting on a shelf in his garage.
i don't know much (anything is more like it) about setting up manuals. so what all is involved in switching over? how hard is it to set up the clutch/pedel in a truck that was an auto? what else do i need to think about?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
05-16-2004, 11:57 PM | #2 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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i would get a stage 3 turbo clutch pack and heavy duty thruster pivots to compensate for the low abridged force caused by the disengaging of the stage3 clutch.
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05-17-2004, 12:05 AM | #3 |
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Location: Elkhart, IN
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Eric, STFU.
im switching to a hydraulic clutch setup in my 86. the main reason for going hydraulic in my case, is that the manual linkage likes to bind when the truck is flexed out. since your truck wont ever be flexed out, you should be fine with a mechanical setup. i just removed a mechanical setup from my K30 today. from the way it appears, bolt in the clutch/brake pedal assembly, cut one hole in the floor for the linkage to go through, and install the Z bar. and of course, a hole in the center hump for the shifter. dont see any reason why it would be a bolt in, considering these trucks came with manuals as well as autos, so stuff should pretty much be bolt in. |
05-17-2004, 01:47 AM | #4 |
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so the clutch pedal and break pedal are part of the same assembly in manual trucks? i probly sound like an idiot but i have never worked with any manual trannies so i don't know how anything hooks up. its sounds easier than i was originaly thinking.
if i got a the clutch and break pedal assembly along with the mechanical linkage, would all that stuff hook up to a muncie trans?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
05-17-2004, 01:58 AM | #5 |
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Does the clutch and brake pedal simply unbolt? Didn't appear to be the case in my 76... Looked welded to the dash support.
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
05-17-2004, 02:23 AM | #6 |
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The whole pedal assembly unbolts. I switched to a 4 speed/205 transfercase and it was a near bolt in deal. Had to cut a hole for the clutch rod thats about it. Go to the junkyard and mangle a parts truck for the things you need. Then when you go to work on your ride, you know the in and outs.
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Are we there yet? |
05-17-2004, 11:51 AM | #7 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
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You will need EVERYTHING from the donor truck. Don't forget to get one of these:
It is the mechanical Z-link locator for the frame. Pedals will remove, you just need to take the nuts off the outside of the firewall (with the brake master cylinder). Brake/clutch comes out together. A bellhousing from a 3 speed will work also.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
05-17-2004, 03:30 PM | #8 |
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cool, thanks guys. i was thinking it was gonna be alot harder than that but it looks pretty straight forward. now i just need to get the #'s off the tranny my buddy has to see which muncie it is
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
05-17-2004, 05:25 PM | #9 |
I'm back with 2nd truck!
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Ryan I've got an exploded view in my 79 Gm shop manual of the linkage etc. if you need it.
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1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson |
05-17-2004, 11:41 PM | #10 |
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If you have 2.73 gears, you will not like the Muncie 4-speed. It will be a PITA trying to get it to move from a standing start. You'll be slipping the clutch so much it won't last long at all. This would be an exercise in frustration in a 3200lb Nova with 26" tires & a 350 (mine had 3.08's & was fairly bad), much more so in a truck with taller tires, more weight, & a 305. The close-ratio Muncie would be worse than the wide-ratio, but neither would be pleasant to drive.
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05-17-2004, 11:52 PM | #11 |
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his truck has 26" tires, and there's no 305 anywhere near it. if im not mistaken, the 3.08s are temporary too.
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05-18-2004, 11:59 AM | #12 |
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His sig is rather old
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05-18-2004, 03:58 PM | #13 |
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the sig is pretty new, i just made all of it up
5/4 race cams.............
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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