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Old 11-26-2018, 06:30 PM   #1
Grumpy old man
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Re: Build front suspension before or after mounting the engine?

I just dropped the upper and lower control arms in today and I'll be dropping in the engine before the front springs and suspension is tightened up . I need the weight to compress the front springs .
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school
'71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX
Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus
Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15
Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction
Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:23 PM   #2
71CHEVYSHORTBED402
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Re: Build front suspension before or after mounting the engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy old man View Post
I just dropped the upper and lower control arms in today and I'll be dropping in the engine before the front springs and suspension is tightened up . I need the weight to compress the front springs .
Pics Grumps pics......... You're always a step ahead of me. I just got the last of the rear brake parts today. One piece at a time it seems, no such thing as a kit with everything on the backing plate, springs here, clips there. And I give, why do you need the weight?

The welds, if any are VERY small. I didn't know they were there until I realized the grease nuts weren't coming off
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71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C.

I developed an assembly guide (kit) for restoring this truck from the ground up, complete with details including full hardware descriptions. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM. My build thread, with some info. about the assembly kit https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025

Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 11-26-2018 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:58 PM   #3
HO455
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Re: Build front suspension before or after mounting the engine?

No preference engine in or out, with the exception of it is easier to clean stuff without the engine in the way. My experience says to check the lower shaft locating rivets for damage. (See photo) One of mine was sheared preventing positive indexing of the shaft for caster settings.
I may be mistaken but I think the factory manual says to do the final torque of the shaft bushings at ride height.
I can see why they may have welded them. There is a lot of torque on the bushings and not much in the way of threads in the control arm.
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1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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