Control arm assembly - threading the caps “cups” properly.

[Slowguy]

I’m trying to install the lower control arm cups at the moment and can’t find a specific procedure on it. Most of what I find just says, “screw the caps on and insert the grease fittings.”

It seems necessary to insert or screw the caps on (front to rear) in a specific way. So I assume the caps need seated all the way into the control arm even though they are SUPER tight? Then the rod should have some play inside the caps so it can move the control arm up and down. With the caps screwed all the way in, will the threads on the rod equal out from front to rear? I hope I’m describing this so it makes sense.

[weq92f]

.
Tighten them evenly and very tight. The torque spec is LARGE. Have a look at this thread for more info...but in general, you have it right...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=762825

-klb

[jonmc56]

The link above is broken for me, but here is the page I think weq92f was pointing to:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=762825


Also, post #17 in my build thread shows how I did it:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560841

Hope this helps.

Jon

[weq92f]

Thanks jonmc56, that's the one!

-klb

[Slowguy]

Wow. What a great description. Thank you. I’ll be using your method for sure. A couple of questions;

Did you grease the cup out threads that thread into the serrated part of the control arm? When I disassembled the old ones it almost looked like they used pipe dope of some sort. Maybe it was just old greas.

The bars are mounted to the cross member as seen in my pics. I assumed this may help keep it all stationary as I tightened. I thought I’d actaully mount it all up to the frame before final tightentening to help even more. Since you done it already, is there something I’m missing that makes this not possible?

I was going to use a dremel with a stainless brush to clean out the serrated hole on the control arm. I did the exact same thing and got por 15, top Cote primer, and chassis black In there.

Originally Posted by jonmc56

The link above is broken for me, but here is the page I think weq92f was pointing to:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=762825


Also, post #17 in my build thread shows how I did it:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560841

Hope this helps.

Jon

[jonmc56]

I didn't grease the serrations on the outside of the cups, I didn't want them to have any more reason to want to back off, although this is probably just being paranoid.

Regarding cleaning out the old paint.... I thought about using a wire brush on a dremel, but was cautious about not wanting to increase the diameter of that opening at all. Again, probably paranoia.

Never thought about doing this with the bars mounted to the cross member. My only concern would be, will the bar stay exactly centered in the lower control arm? If it isn't centered, one of your cups will come up tight too soon, the other will have a gap. The other thing is just ensuring you have enough working room to get good leverage and still hold everything still. The bench vise worked well for me for that reason.

Jon

Originally Posted by Slowguy

Wow. What a great description. Thank you. I’ll be using your method for sure. A couple of questions;

Did you grease the cup out threads that thread into the serrated part of the control arm? When I disassembled the old ones it almost looked like they used pipe dope of some sort. Maybe it was just old greas.

The bars are mounted to the cross member as seen in my pics. I assumed this may help keep it all stationary as I tightened. I thought I’d actaully mount it all up to the frame before final tightentening to help even more. Since you done it already, is there something I’m missing that makes this not possible?

I was going to use a dremel with a stainless brush to clean out the serrated hole on the control arm. I did the exact same thing and got por 15, top Cote primer, and chassis black In there.

[Slowguy]

Jon- thanks again. I used your procedure and it worked great. I have the front crossmember off the truck and turned upside down like in my pics. I was able to tightened the cups almost all the way in. Screwed in fairly easy with a 24” pipe wrench. Need a second person to hold the cross member while it give it the last quarter turn to seat in all the way to the control arm but this leads me a second question;

Some people say just seat it all the way until it stops against the control arm. The other stuff says 120 ftlbs. I’m wondering if 120 would be before it seats and any suggestions how I’d get a torque wrench on it without a 44mm socket. Otherwise I’m going to need to go buy that big socket.

[weq92f]

Save the $$ and just use a big pipe wrench and a cheater bar. IMHO the torque specs for these are not really useful. Just tighten them down super tight!

-klb

[saxart]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Save the $$ and just use a big pipe wrench and a cheater bar. IMHO the torque specs for these are not really useful. Just tighten them down super tight!

-klb

What he said. I happened to already have the big socket that fit (and 1" drive ratchet) but there is no reason a pipe wrench (borrow one from a neighbor) wouldn't work. You want them very tight.

For what it's worth, I found it easier to apply LARGE torque to them by chucking the cross shaft into my bench vice. It was nice to do this work at chest height rather than attached to the truck down on the floor.