What do I coat my frame with?

[my67c20]

Got all my materials from Eastwood. Give em a call, they are very helpful and deliver.

[WestButteTruck]

Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) black epoxy is what I'll be using.

[1970ChevyChamp]

Has anyone else used the KBS coatings product?

[ItsRandy]

I used Rustoleum on mine. Preped the frame real good, primed, then sprayed a few coats of paint. The reason I went with Rustoleum is it is pretty durable and if it does chip it is easy to fix.

[etindoll]

Originally Posted by 1970ChevyChamp

Has anyone else used the KBS coatings product?

I have used the gas tank liner and it worked great. I am going to be using KBS coating on my frame. Love their products and especially the black gloves they sell.

[csvette88]

How well has that powdercoating held up?

[zicc1835]

blast ,epoxy, slick sand took out the pitting ,more epoxy and eastwoods chassis satin black its all in my Doc & Kim build thread ...good luck ,

[chevydog66]

The powder coat has held up great. No regrets here.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

It's somewhat a myth powder coat is expensive, but it's sure a lot more $ than a six pack of spray bombs.

I had my frame, cross members, axle and another dozen parts PCd for $1100. They blast and prep everything just right with awesome results. As others have said before me, I wouldn't PC a driver, because paint can be touched up to match or close.

I think it also depends on the condition of the frame. If it's rusted I'd bypass any thought of powder coat and run with Master Series. I doubt anything is more durable, their primer is TOUGH.

For what it's worth, I did spray bomb my frame with Rustoleum with nice results. Lasted 20 years plus, but it's dry here and the truck sat in the garage. IMO, if you've gone to the trouble of stripping the truck down, I'd forget about spray bombs.

[chewychevy67]

Originally Posted by chevydog66

The powder coat has held up great. No regrets here.

That's a good 6 years! Did you powder the rad support and Inner fenders as well?

[Mantruck]

Check out the Eastwood 2K spray paint in cans. You press a button on the bottom of can to release the catalyst, shake and spray. I like the way it sprays, but be advised there isn't a lot of paint in those cans.

[GIZZ]

I brushed/rolled 3-4 coats of rustbullet on mine. I was in a rush to get all the coats on while still tacky so I ended up finishing at 2am. My prep was spot on, the frame was perfect. My regret was not spraying it. Next time I'll spray or maybe just send it out to be powder coated.

[Mr_Rich]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

It's somewhat a myth powder coat is expensive, but it's sure a lot more $ than a six pack of spray bombs.

I had my frame, cross members, axle and another dozen parts PCd for $1100. They blast and prep everything just right with awesome results. As others have said before me, I wouldn't PC a driver, because paint can be touched up to match or close.

I think it also depends on the condition of the frame. If it's rusted I'd bypass any thought of powder coat and run with Master Series. I doubt anything is more durable, their primer is TOUGH.

For what it's worth, I did spray bomb my frame with Rustoleum with nice results. Lasted 20 years plus, but it's dry here and the truck sat in the garage. IMO, if you've gone to the trouble of stripping the truck down, I'd forget about spray bombs.

I've used both methods. Time and money! I can get similar results by cleaning, prepping, and painting my parts with POR15. The thing is that I would take three times longer to finish my parts vs. taking them to the local powdercoating company and having them done. I decide which parts are better powdercoated and which parts I can paint with POR-15 and get a happy balance of time and money in my project. And any way you choose, make sure you have some nitrile gloves to protect your hands in case you're using POR-15. Harbor Freight sells some nitrile (blue) medium weight gloves that hold up really well. I buy POR-15 and similar generic paint products at my local automotive paint store.

[my67c20]

Its all about how well you prep, prep and prep some more. Also temperature and methods you have available to apply. Just did a bunch of blasted parts with EGC epoxy primer and some eurethane topcoat. Came out great, but cost me about $200 ($100 gallon primer and $100 pint of black) in materials bought from a local automotive paint supply house. To do a whole frame like this, ouch and better have good ventilation. I previously pressure washed, wire wheeled, scraped the frame and applied Eastwoods paint over rust products. Looked good at the time, but 5 years later needs to be redone and this was on a weekend, fair weather driver. Personally, if you are going down to the bare frame, powdercoat it, or epoxy and a topcoat. Long term goal for me, find another frame and go powdercoat.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Agree w/previous comments, it's all about prep.
I'm a POR-15 fan, it hasn't let me down. Media blasted + painted assembled frame about 15 years ago. Frame even sat out on Oregon farm under a single thin blue tarp cover. It's a little dull (satin) from the weather/elements) today but still sold, no peeling, chipping, resists all kinds of chemicals. Still beat on it during suspension overhaul. Stuff is tough as nails!
Look--->
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1534989364

[Slowguy]

To do por15 correctly expect to spend some TIME. I did all the reading I could. I had used por15 in the past but it didn’t hold up that well. It’s all in the prep.

This time I did (as was recommended):

1. Sand blast. Not required but makes life easier.
2. Degreaser. Unnecessary but came with the prep kit so I used.
3. Etch and prep. It’s phosphoric acid that converts the rust and etches the metal to promote the por to adhere. There are many other phosphoric acid products you can buy from the local hardware store. Krud Kutter is one.
4. Must be completely dry before then the first coat of por15 applied. Light coat is best.
5. Wait until the first coat is “finger drag” dry. Usually and hour or two. Then applied 2nd coat. It’s important to not let it dry fully or nothing really sticks to a fully cured por15
6. After finger drag dry 2nd coat apply a dusting of por15 tie or bond coat primer.
7. Now you can wait as long as you want to apply the 2nd coat of primer. Let that primer dry and you can finish it off with whatever top coat you want because now anything pretty much will adhere to the primer coat.
8. I used Eastwood chassis black. It was tricky for me to get the correct coverage. A little to heavy and you get shiny spots. A little too light and it’s really dull.

It was the most time consuming paint I’ve ever done but I can say it’s probably the most durable too. I didn’t know all this going into it and probably wouldn’t have gone this route because of the time involved. Most important things to remember: you must not let the por15 dry completely if you are going on top of it with something. Almost everything put on top of it will scratch off with a fingernail and that’s VERY disappointing. You can always scuff sand the cured por 15 to help but who wants to do that? Por15 left open to exposure will get a chalky finish. It won’t keep that super high gloss shine. Exposed to sun only increases that effect.

First pic is after blasting then etching. Bare metal but looks white.

Second pic is por15

Third is bond coat primer.