47-55.1 What's going wrong inside my 350?

[burnin oil]

Surprised no one mentioned this. Make sure that the valves arnt set to tight. It is really easy to do on a hyd cam. End result is a valve that doesn’t seat completely, if at all, and vacuum issues. I almost bet that one or two are tight and that is why you think the carb and dizzy need tuned more.

For the knowledgeable gear drive guys. Isn’t there a possibility of block interference with gear drive on some blocks? I could of swore I read that somewhere. I always just ran double rollers and never gave it much thought.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Surprised no one mentioned this. Make sure that the valves arnt set to tight. It is really easy to do on a hyd cam. End result is a valve that doesn’t seat completely, if at all, and vacuum issues. I almost bet that one or two are tight and that is why you think the carb and dizzy need tuned more.

For the knowledgeable gear drive guys. Isn’t there a possibility of block interference with gear drive on some blocks? I could of swore I read that somewhere. I always just ran double rollers and never gave it much thought.

Both of these are good points. I'm remembering the way the engine ran in the one video, and that "chugging" sure could be caused by tight valves.

[whitedog76]

I was looking at Edeldbrock's gear drive instructions. Seems as though there is quite a bit of clearance issues associated with installing a gear drive unit. Given the same guy that installed the gear drive also didn't install the flex plate bolts... I watched all your videos again, your engine sounds fairly healthy with the exception of the high pitch squeal. I think it's safe to say that the front cover needs to come off and the gear drive needs to go.

Here's the Edelbrock instuctions. http://www.catalograck.com/imgvd/EDE/7890.pdf

I did the liberty of looking at NAPA for timing gears. $36.39 and up. Single roller, double roller, true roller, shouldn't matter. They'll all get the job done.

https://www.napacanada.com/en/search...=nol-veh-conds

While your at it, here's some new Camshafts. The Torker cam is a little much for a street engine, unless you plan on going to the drag strip and doing a shot of nitrous. I've used the Edelbrock Performer before. It's good on the street, torquey down low, but still good power in the 4000+ RPM range. https://www.napacanada.com/en/search...RefSearch=true

Once you get the gear drive off, you'll be able to tell quite a bit about the engine. Especially if there's a spun bearing, etc...

Hope this helps.

Chris

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

I was looking at Edeldbrock's gear drive instructions. Seems as though there is quite a bit of clearance issues associated with installing a gear drive unit. Given the same guy that installed the gear drive also didn't install the flex plate bolts... I watched all your videos again, your engine sounds fairly healthy with the exception of the high pitch squeal. I think it's safe to say that the front cover needs to come off and the gear drive needs to go.

Here's the Edelbrock instuctions. http://www.catalograck.com/imgvd/EDE/7890.pdf

I did the liberty of looking at NAPA for timing gears. $36.39 and up. Single roller, double roller, true roller, shouldn't matter. They'll all get the job done.

https://www.napacanada.com/en/search...&jobId=1104100

While your at it, here's some new Camshafts. The Torker cam is a little much for a street engine, unless you plan on going to the drag strip and doing a shot of nitrous. I've used the Edelbrock Performer before. It's good on the street, torquey down low, but still good power in the 4000+ RPM range. https://www.napacanada.com/en/search...RefSearch=true

Once you get the gear drive off, you'll be able to tell quite a bit about the engine. Especially if there's a spun bearing, etc...

Hope this helps.

Chris

whitedog76,

Thank you for all the information. Do you think I will need to do the lifters are well? or should they run with what I would think are the stock lifters still in the engine.

One of your Napa links does not work. I did a search and there are 14 different timing kits to choose from. And for the camshaft it shows one part number SEP CS274

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

whitedog76,

Thank you for all the information. Do you think I will need to do the lifters are well? or should they run with what I would think are the stock lifters still in the engine.

One of your Napa links does not work. I did a search and there are 14 different timing kits to choose from. And for the camshaft it shows one part number SEP CS274

New cams don't like old lifters -- even ones that have only been run an hour. Replace the lifters.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

New cams don't like old lifters -- even ones that have only been run an hour. Replace the lifters.

I will consider swapping out the cam and lifters if I dont have good vacuum.

I think I need to get the timing/carb setup first to get it idling properly then check for good vacuum. If I dont have good vacuum then ill change the timing chain for a double roller and swap the cam & lifters.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I will consider swapping out the cam and lifters if I dont have good vacuum.

I think I need to get the timing/carb setup first to get it idling properly then check for good vacuum. If I dont have good vacuum then ill change the timing chain for a double roller and swap the cam & lifters.

Sounds like a plan. Before you remove the Jackson gear drive, make sure it was installed so that the cam timing was correct. If it was a tooth off it would explain the poor performance. Then check/set the valve lash before you set the timing and mess with the carb. Let us know if either the cam timing or the valve lash was messed up. (I know you're getting a lot of advice, but these two checks are easy, important, and will let you know if you have fixed something.) So, here's the entire sequence:

1) Check the static (non-running) cam timing by looking at the gear drive.
2) Install double roller chain & gears.
3) Check/set valve lash (Static, NOT running).
4) Get engine to run.
5) Set timing.
6) Set up the carb.

Oops. It's late at night, and no, I haven't had any adult beverages, but I just realized my plan doesn't let you execute your plan. I'd do my plan, but you do what you want. We'll still help you.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Both of these are good points. I'm remembering the way the engine ran in the one video, and that "chugging" sure could be caused by tight valves.

I will check this as well. Thanks for the tips.

Please remember that the timing has not been set either then TDC on #1 and the distributor dropped in. The carb and distributor are plugged off and the carb is a fresh rebuild i did and I'm not sure the step up springs/metering rods are good or the idle speed screw needs adjusting and the air fuel mixture screws are set correctly.