Flooding issue. This set up ok?

[Mack B]

This is long and pointless but I want to give as much info/back ground as possible.

>283
>rebuilt 500 cfm edelbrock carburetor
>flooding after engine is turned off
>has spacer under carb
>has mechanical pump
>has regulator set to 5.5

My trouble started last year here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=752317&page=2

I rectified this by temporarily installing a fuel tank in the bed, complete new fuel lines, cleaned the new pump, new filter cleaned/rebuilt carburetor.

Had ongoing issues with the carburetor. Engine dying under load and just poor drivability I decided in the interest of my sanity and possibly better performance and economy I would buy a rebuilt 500 cfm edelbrock to replace the 600 (this is on a 283).

Carb is supposedly dyno tested before being sent out and for warranty purposes has dabs of paint to tell on me if I open it up or make external adjustments. Right out the box the truck smoked horribly and barely ran. I had to adjust the mixture screws, the idle screw and the choke wouldn't engage the fast idle cam. I really have my doubts it was tested.

I make a few small trips uneventful, then comes the fateful day I have to push the truck through the car rider line at school. Both embarrassing and taxing. F@krs heavy. It had flooded as I pulled in, gas was pouring out of the throttle shafts. I assumed a float stuck, tapped it with my purse and eventually got it started. Drove it around uneventful for a while after that (all short trips).

Yesterday in traffic I notice the idle is getting rougher than normal like it's loading up, I tap the trottle to clear it and all seems fine. I get where I'm going no more issues till I start to leave. It's flooded. Hold the throttle to the floor and it cranks up, I get it home and park it. Come back later find it flooded again. After the truck sits a while it floods otherwise it starts fine.

Likely I need to open up my new to me carburetor of questionable rebuiltness, but first I need to ask if the fuel cell in the bed is contributing to this. The top of the tank itself is probably right at level with the carburetor base but the loop of rubber hose is likely as high as or higher than the carburetor (upon this realization I lowered it as much as possible in this current configuration) could this be pushing gas into the carb after the motor stops? Or would the bottom of the tank have to be higher than the carb for that to be a concern? This is all suppose to be temporary so I could enjoy the truck before pulling the bed for suspension/ fuel tank work.

Pics of tank and of carb setup:
One of those lines is a vent line.
System is not rubber line the whole way despite what these pictures would have you believe. Short section at tank, at pump and at fuel filter is all. (Unrelated but I know someone was gonna tell me it's dangerous)

Thanks for reading!

[PGSigns]

First thing is to set the fuel pressure to 4 psi and see if that helps. The edelbrock I was running did not like anything over 5 psi. Couple of things that also may give you is the tank one being black and two being in the sun. Fuel now is formulated for sealed tanks and efi. What that means for us is low vapor pressure and vapor lock. So keeping fuel cool is important. That tank will get hot in the sun.
Jimmy

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

First thing is to set the fuel pressure to 4 psi and see if that helps. The edelbrock I was running did not like anything over 5 psi. Couple of things that also may give you is the tank one being black and two being in the sun. Fuel now is formulated for sealed tanks and efi. What that means for us is low vapor pressure and vapor lock. So keeping fuel cool is important. That tank will get hot in the sun.
Jimmy

I'll try lowering the pressure, I'm also going to open it up and check the floats. So you don't think the loop would cause any issues?

I never even considered the tank getting hot from the sun. If there is any saving grace there it's that I keep it garaged and it is rarely parked outside for any length of time.

I appreciate the input!

[geezer#99]

Are you sure your regulator is working?
Or set up right.
Usually the inlet is where your gauge is and the return line to the tank is where your fuel inlet is.

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Are you sure your regulator is working?

According to the gauge yes. Is the gauge accurate? Who knows.

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Or set up right.
Usually the inlet is where your gauge is and the return line to the tank is where your fuel inlet is.

According to the instructions yes. Are the instructions right? Who knows.

[maydaymike]

The "re manufactured" Edelbrock carb I bought did the same thing. Both of the needle/seat assemblies were garbage, obviously not replaced. The float levels were also way out of spec. Mine also came with mismatched jets and rods, as in different from side to side. For the extra parts I had to buy to make it run, I could have just bought a new one to start with. And I could have had the new one in two days, instead of 4 weeks. The one I had came from National Carburetor, and sold on E-bay. I believe they did test it though. It smelled strongly of gas straight out of the box.

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by maydaymike

The "re manufactured" Edelbrock carb I bought did the same thing. Both of the needle/seat assemblies were garbage, obviously not replaced. The float levels were also way out of spec. Mine also came with mismatched jets and rods, as in different from side to side. For the extra parts I had to buy to make it run, I could have just bought a new one to start with. And I could have had the new one in two days, instead of 4 weeks. The one I had came from National Carburetor, and sold on E-bay. I believe they did test it though. It smelled strongly of gas straight out of the box.

Ha! I guess should have checked the jet sizes while I had it open today . One of the springs that hold the rod in place was broken, but other than that everything appeared new. Even the floats....one of which was wedged in there so tight it wouldn't move lol.

It appears I may be ok with my tank set up for the time being. Thanks for all of yall's input!

[geezer#99]

Did you adjust the float drop on the closest float in your pic?
Looks quite excessive.

[maydaymike]

Originally Posted by Mack B

Ha! I guess should have checked the jet sizes while I had it open today . One of the springs that hold the rod in place was broken, but other than that everything appeared new. Even the floats....one of which was wedged in there so tight it wouldn't move lol.

It appears I may be ok with my tank set up for the time being. Thanks for all of yall's input!

Yup... That photo looks awful familiar. I'll stick with brand new from now on, unless I intend to rebuild it myself before use.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you adjust the float drop on the closest float in your pic?
Looks quite excessive.

Ya, that float is way out of spec.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by maydaymike

Yup... That photo looks awful familiar. I'll stick with brand new from now on, unless I intend to rebuild it myself before use.

Times two. Always purchase brand new if you can.

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you adjust the float drop on the closest float in your pic?
Looks quite excessive.

If that was full drop in that pic (not sure didn't check as it was completely stuck in that position) it was closer than the other one at full drop.

Originally Posted by maydaymike

Yup... That photo looks awful familiar. I'll stick with brand new from now on, unless I intend to rebuild it myself before use.

Your truck looks perfect sir! Any good parts stashes in north Alabama that's worth a drive?

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Ya, that float is way out of spec.

Referring to that as a float is insulting to bouyant objects everywhere.

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Times two. Always purchase brand new if you can.

Thinking like that would have kept me out of this 56 year old turd.