Rear diff and front sway bar in a 60

[demian5]

Hi -

Im helping a friend with a 60 that has trailing arms and a chevelle rear diff that was modified to fit in the truck. Needless to say it is too wide and we need to put a narrow truck rear back in.

Would a 64-70 diff bolt right into the stock 1960 suspension?

I plan on getting the long CPP track bar and mounts. We will be running bolt on spacers and transit wheels.

Also, it appears a 64-86 front sway bar would work in the truck with 1" spacers at the mounts on the frame. Is this true?

[Captainfab]

The only diff that will be a direct bolt is, is a Eaton HO32/33 from a '60-'62 truck. The '60-'62's have the trailing arms farther apart than the '63-'72 trucks. The '63-'70 12 bolt is the same width as the '60-'62 Eaton HO32/33, but the trailing arm mounts will need to be moved. If you need a set, those are one of the many products that I make and sell here on the forum.

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The only diff that will be a direct bolt is, is a Eaton HO32/33 from a '60-'62 truck. The '60-'62's have the trailing arms farther apart than the '63-'72 trucks. The '63-'70 12 bolt is the same width as the '60-'62 Eaton HO32/33, but the trailing arm mounts will need to be moved. If you need a set, those are one of the many products that I make and sell here on the forum.

There was also a Dana 44 option for the Chevy truck trailing arm rear suspension. My '62 Suburban came with one, and I've found a second for spare parts.

HD Chevy rear suspension for those years was leaf spring.
Standard GMC rear suspension was leaf spring, with a Dana 44.
HD GMC rear suspension was coil spring with trailing arms. The trailing arm GMCs also came with a Dana 44. That's what my second one came out of.

The OP could find a GMC Dana 44, from the common leaf sprung applications, and weld new mounting pads on it in the right place. He'd have six lug, the correct width, and since the Dana 44 is still in production today, a full range of gear choices, bearing kits are affordable, and Posi units are everywhere.

-Brad

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The only diff that will be a direct bolt is, is a Eaton HO32/33 from a '60-'62 truck. The '60-'62's have the trailing arms farther apart than the '63-'72 trucks. The '63-'70 12 bolt is the same width as the '60-'62 Eaton HO32/33, but the trailing arm mounts will need to be moved. If you need a set, those are one of the many products that I make and sell here on the forum.

Great to know. Ill be getting the long panhard bar that bolts to the pass trailing arm. But that may not work either will it?

[Captainfab]

It should if you get one made specifically for a '60-'62 Chevy.

Originally Posted by demian5

Great to know. Ill be getting the long panhard bar that bolts to the pass trailing arm. But that may not work either will it?

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you need a set, those are one of the many products that I make and sell here on the forum.

Send me links. Will the narrow rear end work with the 60 frame width? I plan on running transits.

[Captainfab]

The '63-'70 12 bolt is 62" wide just as the '60-'62 Eaton HO32/33 is 62" wide also. I will send you a PM with links to all of my for sale threads.

Originally Posted by demian5

Send me links. Will the narrow rear end work with the 60 frame width? I plan on running transits.

[LostMy65]

This may help for the rear :

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Got Captainfab's axle perches/saddles mocked up today.
I approached it very similar to how I did the 14-bolt on my 3/4 ton service box truck.
I propped up the back end - bracing the trailing arms with 2x6 wood members. Removed the Ho32, and then made a template out of plywood (wafer board) - marking the existing axle perch holes. Then I lined my template up under the 12-Bolt. I was hoping I wasn't going to have to remove the existing perches from the 12-Bolt.
As you can see from the pics; I pretty much have Captainfab's axle perches slapped up against the existing 12-Bolt perches. I'll tac them on and then test fit it before welding them on permanently.
The pinion angle will remain the same.
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Originally Posted by LostMy65

Tacked on Captainfab's axle perches.
Bolted them up, tightly, then tacked them permanently.
I'll pull it back out tomorrow to weld them up completely.
The axle is out of a 65, so it looks like I'll be able to use the track bar too.


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[demian5]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

This may help for the rear :

This is so solid! Thank you.

[demian5]

So I ordered the rear end conversion kit from CPP for putting the 65 rear diff kin. Comes with the pads, U-bolts and the long pan hard bar that mounts to the bottom of the opposite trailing arm. Should be fairly simple.

I ordered the sway bars from POL for 60-63 as they came with additional parts to make them work that didn't come with CPP kit. The rear links actually mount differently.

Take a look at this picture. Check out the shock locations. Is this factory? (never mind the Chevelle rear diff, this is being replaced).

[Captainfab]

Yes that is the stock shock location for a '60-'62.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yes that is the stock shock location for a '60-'62.

Thanks man. Sorry I didn't order your stuff. I just bought it all at CPP and was able to pick it up today ($3k in stuff including complete disc brake swap and power steering kit - no PS today).

Guess the only thing now is does the existing driveshaft work with the diff i'm swapping in??

[demian5]

So the diff I got is a 1965 that has the tall track bar stand that is welded to the axle. Do I need to cut that off so it doesn't hit the bed when I lower it?

[Captainfab]

If your 12 bolt has the panhard bar mount welded onto the passenger side axle tube, it is either a '63 or a '64. The '63 12 bolt has the backing plates pressed onto the axle tubes. 1965 was the first year that the panhard bar mount was a stud bolted to an ear that was a part of the center section casting. Whether it will hit your bed or not depends on just how low you are going. If it is not being used, I would remove it.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If it is not being used, I would remove it.

Ok, more new info for me. Thanks.

Looking at the pictures it may hit the frame rail. I got the track bar that goes to the trailing arm, so ill cut it off.

[demian5]

Will running the rear brakes without ebrake cables be ok? The diff I have doesn't have them. And if I were to adapt the 1965 (or later if they work) ebrake cables to a 60, which ones would I use and where would I get them?