Front disk and drop question

[Rdwagoner]

1967 C10, I need some input please.
I’d like to drop the front and back a few inches, any advise?
Currently 6 lug and drums all around. I’d like to convert front to disk. Can I get parts I need from a junk yard without changing steering etc? I’m going to buy drop spindles as well. Probably will keep 6 lug unless I find a 5 lug front then I’ll have to drill out the rear shafts to 5 lug since I’m unable to remove shafts. Any advice on direct bolt on stuff year models etc? Carrier pin is locked in since bolt broke off in the pin and I cannot remove it. Last resort is swap entire rear axle if needed. Thanks for any input

[Mike C]

Does your truck have a 12 bolt or a Dana 60?

I would do an Early Classics Enterprises (ECE) conversion disc kit. It uses the drum ball joints and tie rods. I would do the 2 1/2" drop spindle kit.

If you have the 12 bolt in the rear, I would definitely do the 5 lug. There are so many more options on wheels. You will need to buy conversion axle shafts and drums or find a donor axle from a newer truck.

Your choices can depend on your skill set. I HIGHLY recommend using the search button at the top of the page as this board is 20 years old now and there are TONS of solutions to this question.

Pics of your truck please!

[Rdwagoner]

Yes sir it is a 12 bolt rear. I have no way of getting g the shafts our as I cannot get the pin out of the carrier. I’m either stuck with my 6 lug rear or could have my current shafts drilled for 5 lug? I will definitely do the drop and disk kit you recommend . I did hear it’s possible to use the front end out of a mid 70-80 model Chevy for the disk brakes etc. is that possible?posting pics below...

[Rdwagoner]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1549757645

[Rdwagoner]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1549757782

[Rdwagoner]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1549757917

[Mike C]

Nice truck.

Yes, you can use a donor newer truck setup. You will need all of the brake and steering parts. The disc brake trucks ball joints and tie rod ends are different than the drum brake parts. You might save a few bucks. Or not. You will do much more work and it will take a lot longer.

I did the ECE converison on my 69 short step. I did the 2 1/2" drop spindles along with a 2" drop spring.

It is possible to get the pin out of the differential but it is a pain in the butt. It really needs to be fixed IMO regardless of what you do. And there is no way to correctly redrill the axles without removing them from the truck.

If it was mine, I would buy the ECE conversion setup and I would find a used 5 lug axle assembly. And actually, that is exactly what I did on my truck. Mine is a leaf spring truck and I found a 5 lug leaf setup on Craigslist that I swapped my original limited slip into.

[Rdwagoner]

Thank you, it’s a work in progress. It would save some headache I’m sure to just buy the kit which I’ll most likely do. I don’t think it’ll be too hard to find a 5 lug rear from a junk yard. Depending on the year it comes from I’ll have to swap over all the brackets etc correct? Mine is coil spring front and rear so it may be more difficult.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I took the entire front suspension off a 1971 GMC, but that was like 15 years ago, little harder to do now-a-days. You can use an entire set up off a square body, but stuff like ball joints and tie rod ends are different sizes. Not a huge deal, but when ordering drop spindles, etc. you need to match everything up. I believe you can just install 71/72 upper and lower ball joints in 73+ upper and lower control arms and order a kit for a 1971/72 C10.


I'd recommend to just go all out and do an ECE 4/6 drop.
If you're keeping 15's, I'd recommend not using the 2.5 " spindles and stick with the 2" spindle and 2" spring if you plan on keeping 15's. With 15's there will be a little bit of grinding on the brake caliper, maybe a tiny bit where the tie rod bolts up, but with the 2.5" spindle and 15's I had to trim a good bit on my lower A-arm. The 2" spindle will reduce that.


I stuck with 6 lug and rallies as well. While a lot of 17/18/20 wheels styles have come and gone, I've been rolling the same wheels for 15+ years.


Top pick is from around 2006, 2nd pic is recent.

[Rdwagoner]

Wow that is sharp! Very nice looking truck! Few questions for you, if I stick with 15” wheels I’ll do what you said for dropping. If I go with a 17” vision torque wheel I could do the 2.5 spindle? What coil springs would you recommend as far as drop? Front/rear? I’m stuck between keeping rally’s vs buying new wheels and tires...

Side note, I see you have a 700r4, I do as well. How difficult was it for you to set the line pressure for correct shift points? I’m shifting into second about 10-12mph. I can’t adjust much more, I have no slack in line at idle and it’s tight at full throttle. Thanks for your input!

[Rdwagoner]

17” wheels I was thinking about. Opinion??

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1549799343

[Rdwagoner]

I think I’m going to stick with the rally wheel look. Your truck looks awesome like that. I like the baby moons vs just a hub cap. Here’s my wheels now, I don’t have many options for center caps, I may go with your style. I’m open to ideas with my current wheels....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1549809259

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Rdwagoner

Wow that is sharp! Very nice looking truck! Few questions for you, if I stick with 15” wheels I’ll do what you said for dropping. If I go with a 17” vision torque wheel I could do the 2.5 spindle? What coil springs would you recommend as far as drop? Front/rear? I’m stuck between keeping rally’s vs buying new wheels and tires...

Side note, I see you have a 700r4, I do as well. How difficult was it for you to set the line pressure for correct shift points? I’m shifting into second about 10-12mph. I can’t adjust much more, I have no slack in line at idle and it’s tight at full throttle. Thanks for your input!

On the 700R4 I bought the Bowtie Overdrives TVmadeEZ throttle cable kit and their Torque Converter lock-up kit. Not cheap but worth it. The lock up kit has a brake safety switch that unlocks the TC when you apply the brakes. I set it up with a pressure gauge with the stock pressures I found online. My 700R has been in the truck since 2006 and has maybe +/-70K miles on it now. I do burn outs all the time, I should have killed it by now, but it still shifts great. I can't help it, the exhaust sounds too good and the backend is just too light.


Anything over 15" wheels and you can use the 2.5" spindle.

This is the problem I ran into and you can see I had to trim my A-Arm a bit. I wasn't happy about it. As far as springs, I installed whatever was in the ECE kit.

[Rdwagoner]

Oh I see. Ok so when you say stick with 2” spindle and 2” spring that is the drop you’re referring to? Not what’s on there stock right now correct?

[67ChevyRedneck]

I initially did a 4.5/6 drop (2.5 spindle/2" spring and 6" in the rear) and I didn't like it. The nose just sat too low. I installed a 1/4" spacer which brought the nose back up almost 1/2", so I'm back to what would have been a 4/6.


I also never liked those super deep trim rings. The next time you go to a decent sized swap meet that has a bunch of wheel vendors, take a look at beauty rings for a 6 or 7" wheel. I think they're only 1.5 or 2" deep. They look a lot better on rallys (I think) because you can see more of the wheel.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=368243

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Rdwagoner

Oh I see. Ok so when you say stick with 2” spindle and 2” spring that is the drop you’re referring to? Not what’s on there stock right now correct?

Yea, my truck started with a 2.5 spindle with a 2" drop spring. I raised the nose back up 1/2" with a spacer because I thought it was too low.

If I could do it over again, I would go with a 2" drop spindle with a 2" drop spring.

[Rdwagoner]

Understood, would you mind give it me your wheel specs? Also the type of baby moons you have? Do they just snap in those wheels? Thanks

[Rdwagoner]

Do you think it’s absolutely needed to install a adjustable prop valve or can I get by for a while without it?

[Mike C]

I have the Vision Legend 5 lug wheels on mine. 17x8 front 4.5" bs and 17x9 5" bs. On a stepside you need the wider later axle for that to work with big tires.

I have 235 55 17 on front and 275 55 17 rear.

My truck is 4.5" drop front with 2.5" spindle and 2" spring and leaf spring flip in the back that dropped it 7 1/4". I ran the ECE conversioni brake setup with their master, metering block, T fitting and hoses.

If I were to do it all over again: I would do exactly the same thing.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I bought my wheels back in like 2004, I don't remember much other than the back is 15x8 and fronts are 15x7. I think they both have 4.5" BS. My tires are 235/70 rear and 215/75 front.

The caps are something I picked up at a swap meet, saw 'em and thought they looked cool. I painted the bowties red.

I'm not much help on the brakes... I redid everything stock on mine with the factory disc proportioning valve.