any secrets to removing a arm shaft bolts

[dondb]

Have my upper and lower a arms out for a front suspension rebuild. Everything is out and a part, except I can't get the lower a arm shaft bolts out. I have a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar with the shaft in a vice....and the breaker bar bends to a uncomfortable amount. I had to get a 1 5/8" 3/4" socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer. That alone set me back 30 bucks! Maybe a cheater bar???? Probably snap the 1/2" breaker bar?

[weq92f]

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Dang! Righty Tighty.... LOL jk

Use some penetrating oil and an impact. Mine came loose using a large pipe wrench and a BFH.


-klb

[dondb]

LOL.....Thanks for those instructions...I will not forget them:
Got them off.....found my 22 year old son and a cheater bar off my jack handle. Still almost pulled my vise out of the bench

[bmxbang]

Ha ha, I know the pain! Glad you got them out when I did mine I ended up bolting them back on with the U bolts on to the truck and getting them loose that way.

[68 P.O.S.]

While you have it torn apart, upgrade to the 9/16" lower control arm u-bolts for safety. The original ones liked to snap when reversing with the wheel cranked all the way in either direction. Dorman 13503 are the ones you want. Other vendors have them as well.

[bean]

Doing dame thing to my 72. Wound up cutting old bolts off and as previously mentioned upgraded to the 9/16 . summit has them for 12$.

[dondb]

What are the torque specs for the upper and lower a arm shafts? I have seen different numbers for new vs original?

[Grumpy old man]

The secret is to loosen them BEFORE you take them off the frame , Once you have the ball joints loose and remove the spring use the weight of the frame to your advantage and loosen the shaft bushings . I used a 20" Cresent wrench and a cheater bar to remove the shaft bushings ,Then once they are loose enough that you don't have to wrestle with them in a vice remove the A arms from the frame . Easy Peasy , When installing them mount the new shafts to the frame first and locate the pin and torque the lower new 9/16 Ubolts , the upper shaft can just be slid into place and then install the A arms and the new bushing caps again using the frame instead of assembling them with a bench vice . I used all new Moog parts and cleaned /primed and painted so the last thing I wanted to do was clamp them in a bench vice . It was easy and fast and no scratches or marred up parts . once assembled use some Dykem torque seal to mark the installed position and it gives you a good quick check to make sure they haven't moved / loosened up on you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5fXwNzPEso

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...iABEgIOwPD_BwE

( Orielly's $9.49 for the Dorman 13503)

[72ironmike]

Originally Posted by dondb

What are the torque specs for the upper and lower a arm shafts? I have seen different numbers for new vs original?

Good luck with this question ! Finding the correct torque is tough. Service manual is misprinted. New vs original makes sense since the original would already be splayed out in the a arm collar. Using the original a arm may accept less torque ? I called the "Moog Experts" & they were about as much help as a wet paper bag. "Gee I dunno" they said. One friend suggested torqueing till still movable and tacking the heads so they don't back out ? Is it half ton or three quarter ? A1Auto sells 3/4 pairs with ball joint for about $100 pre torqued. Again, Good Luck.

[72ironmike]

"once assembled use some Dykem torque seal to mark the installed position and it gives you a good quick check to make sure they haven't moved / loosened up on you"

Great advice ! Thanks Grumps.

[dondb]

Thanks for the heads up on finding correct torque specs!

And Thanks for the installation procedure to the arms Grumpy...I noticed in your pics your lower a arm has what looks like a sway bar bushing? Asking because my 69 1/2 ton does not??

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by dondb

Thanks for the heads up on finding correct torque specs!

And Thanks for the installation procedure to the arms Grumpy...I noticed in your pics your lower a arm has what looks like a sway bar bushing? Asking because my 69 1/2 ton does not??

Factory sway bar , they are 1 1/16" and later 1 1/4" the mounting holes are already in your factory A arms and frame . You can find them on the parts board . The frame brackets are available aftermarket for stock stance and they make a set of brackets for a lowered truck using a factory sway bar also . I used Energy suspension bushing on this truck build .

[dondb]

Thanks for the explanation I see the 2 holes for the bushing in my lowers...I bought a 1 1/4" from CPP and they mount differently then yours. Wish I would of known this particular way before i bought mine.I like your set up more.

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Factory sway bar , they are 1 1/16" and later 1 1/4" the mounting holes are already in your factory A arms and frame . You can find them on the parts board . The frame brackets are available aftermarket for stock stance and they make a set of brackets for a lowered truck using a factory sway bar also . I used Energy suspension bushing on this truck build .

[Grumpy old man]

These are the specs I use . I always use the Dykem just to be sure on suspension/ steering .

[72ironmike]

Grumpy, Where does it show the steel bushing C10 torques ?

[Grumpy old man]

I found these in another thread from the factory manual

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=471554

[dondb]

Originally Posted by 72ironmike

Grumpy, Where does it show the steel bushing C10 torques ?

I believe the specs supplied above states 115 ft-lbs for a arm bushing bolts.

[dondb]

[QUOTE=dondb;8470388]I believe the specs supplied above states 115 ft-lbs for a arm bushing bolts.[/QUOTE

Grumps....you snuck in another spec sheet in there before my post...so 115 is for previous sheet. Also i believe the one above should say upper control arm bushing, instead of 2 lowers?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Do the holes have to be drilled out for the larger u-bolts?
George

[Grumpy old man]

Yes , Minor , Just run a 9/16 drill up thru the holes from the bottom .

[68 P.O.S.]

Possibly. Some trucks do, some don't. Mine did. Use a 9/16" drill bit, you won't have to do much an it's not hard