I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

It's a square plug, ~5/8'', on the left shoulder [drivers side] [...]
Consult Owner's Manual for proper fill levels.

As for the video, it'd be a lot quieter with the hump cover back on. Does not sound abnormal.
I like that modification. You can jettison your spent beercans without having to roll the window down.

Oh, because it's muddy still haven't crawled under, but very good to know which side to be! Could not see from above. Good info on oil too, thank you.

LOL You need to catch up with the times, that's a roach ash tray.

[89AKurt]

Because the weather forecast is for rain all day tomorrow, I worked on KLUGE.
(Old term in computer programming....sort of a 'hack' or shortcut..usually badly done)

Replaced the ignition key cylinder. I got a tip from the thread posted above, had to drill out because it would not go left.


The nirvana moment.


The key (pun intended) was removing the flat tab, then it would rotate counter clockwise with effort. Used a punch instead of a paper clip. I messed up the main part a little, but it still works.


Wanted to explore the steering wheel hub. Think that part is shot, previous owner wrapped the horn button with electrical tape, it fell on my lap the other day.


I made the puller for the '69, needed to grind a little smaller to fit this wheel.


The turn signal switch looks ok, but does not cancel. I can live with that. Cleaned the steering wheel before installing. Horn isn't working, I put a screw driver from shaft to steering wheel to test (accidentally found that out on the '69).


Put the transmission hump back on. Since the floor is rusted, and the back edge of the cover is badly rusted too, I didn't care how sloppy I was gluing the cork gasket onto the floor. I also resisted painting the boot retainer ring, left it rusty.


Now it can rain, we need it!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Looks like you need a new Horn Cap Retainer, p/n 60-06414, $5.00 from
www.truckandcarshop.com
They also have the Turn Signal Switch Cancelling Springs, p/n 67-06707, $3.00 a pair.
I replaced my '68's OEM ignition switch years ago. It now goes to ACC, but I'm not sure there's anything there. I remember having a hard time with the ignition sw on the '67 Sub. The bezel is different. I used a chisel and small ball pien hammer and gave light taps at each 120* notch until it came to finger tight and spun off. The 67's notches are smaller, so harder to grip.

I'm also having horn gripes. Currently doesn't work. The OEM '68 horn, I drilled out the rivets holding it together, cleaned out the interior, de-rusted the vibrator coil, re-assembled it with screws and nuts -- and it wotked again. Then I painted it satin black and it won't work. Most likely it's paint interfering with grounding.
Another part of the problem is the short, either in the column or under dash. Have inspected it all, but for under the Fuse Panel/Bulkhead Connector, and see no obvious faults. Tried 3 different Horn Relays, OEM, one fron '67 Sub, and a new one from Auto Zone. All bench test OK. But when energized stay on.
Right now horn button does not click relay. I put a piece of E-tape under the steel plate on the bottom of the T/S Sw. Maybe that is supposed to flow thru to ground?
I also got fancy and tried adding a second High A 440 hz, Bosch horn off a vintage Mercedes [where did I get that?] along with the stock Delco-Remy Mid C-note horn. Sounded like some angry Late-Fifties progressive jazz -- Monk on a rant, too cool -- but I can't get it to work out yet.
I don't think the 2 horns make so much current that the relay sticks On. Most V8s had dual horns without special horn relays. [Horn Relay Relay?]
I have pix, but I wanted to post a Horn Gripe on the Electrical subforum, where the Experts will see it, so I'll save pix for now.