Lock right locker

[mbzaungst]

Anyone used a lock Right locker on a 12 bolt street truck ? Any issues with them on cornering?

[BlouDon]

I don't know what a lock right locker is but I do know what a Detroit locker is.

Three comments from me:
1) Do NOT use on a 2wd vehicle unless you very much intend having the rear break loose;
2) if fitted to a 4wd, replace diff oil EVERY time you have driven through deep water, otherwise you WILL break side shafts. How would I know that??
3) only use EPX90 or EPX75 - NOT EP90.

[B. W.]

The Lock Right is very similar in construction to the Detroit. It is a true locker. Lockers are designed to allow the non-driven wheel to "over run" the driven wheel (turn faster) when turning but, the locker will NOT allow the non-driven wheel to turn slower. That's the ratcheting sound you hear when turning with a Detroit.

In theory, turns are seamless. In reality, it's not uncommon for the rear to lock & try to push the vehicle through the intersection, especially if the road is slick. The solution is driver input - when this happens you goose then back pedal on the gas to unlock the locker.

when you get used to it, it's no big deal. the first time it shoves you through an intersection you will "white knuckle" it.

Many guys run lockers on the road, I have for years.

[BlouDon]

Originally Posted by B. W.

when this happens you goose then back pedal on the gas to unlock the locker.

Goosing it (with a DL in the rear) while in a turn is a sure recipe to loose the rear is it not?

Eg, as you turn to the right, power will be routed to the RH inside wheel. Vehicle weight is being transferred to the left side while turning to the right and lessens the weight on the RH wheel , making it easier for that wheel to break loose mid turn being goosed. As it breaks loose (now effectively spinning) the locker locks and SUDDENLY power is applied to the outside (LH) wheel in a "shock load" fashion making it easier for the outside wheel to ALSO break loose, and thar she goes!!

I believe a "TRUE TRAC" locker would be better suited for 2wd applications. Only thing is, it sometimes also acts like an open diff if conditions are right (eg one wheel on ice (both wheels MUST have SOME traction).

[B. W.]

I agree that a tru trac is a better option, I run one in the front diff. (lock right in the rear)

You only need to "goose" then back pedal if the locker inadvertently locks. The goose helps unload the rear diff so that it can unlock. Kinda sorta like matching engine rpm to trans rpm when shifting a non-synchronized trans.

If you run a locker, try it, it works.

[Mike C]

The main selling point for a street vehicle is you can install yourself with very few tools. I wouldn't do it myself. I would look at a clutch type limited slip or the TrueTrac.

I have not run a LockRight in a true street vehicle. I currently have several of them or clones. My K30 has a Yukon in the front Dana 60 and a LockRight in the rear Dana 70. It's a dually, and the locked rear is not at ALL asphalt friendly.

I have one in the back of my '52 M38A1 and the '44 MB which are almost exclusively driven off-road and they are fairly unobtrusive. The front of the MB is unlocked and the A1 has a TrueTrac. I HIGHLY recommend the TrueTrac as it is virtually unnoticeable until you need the extra traction.

My 79 CJ-5 has PowerTrax NoSLips front and rear. They are a LockRight that has been engineered to be more road friendly, and I agree that they are that. But I would NOT have bought them new for what they cost but I scored them used for 50 cents on the dollar.

Did I mention I highly recommend the TrueTrac?

[rennat_2006]

I would not recomend a lockrite or similar type "lunchbox locker" for the street. Anytime your under power it is locked, so youll be scuffing tires around every corner. They have weird locking/unlocking characteristics also that will cause the truck to jump and dart around.

I would highly recomend a clutch style posi, yes takes more time or money to setup being a carrier swap but it is absolutely worth it. Ive got a yukon duragrip for my 71 nova and will probably be doing the same for the wifes 72 c10.

Ive ran a locrite in the past in a dana 44 front and had nothing but problems with it. I ended up rebuilding it and double checking all setup clearances and specs and it still never worked like it should. Last straw was it leaving me stuck out in the sand dunes with no power making it to the front wheels and it just clunking and banging.

[Ironangel]

The Powertrax Lock-Right's for GM 12T's are kinda flakey units. They are the lowest costing and easiest units to install and will work without to much hassle once you figure out what spring combination gives you the release you want in turns and still lock up "reliably" for a good burn out or launch. They tend to be "iffy" on the lock up and turn great or don't want to disengage and push you through a wet or slippery turn. You get what you pay for. I agree on the Detroit Truetrac's but they're pricey in my opinion. My pick and what I run in my street/strip truck as well as my daily driver is what the factory installed in 72 C/10's with 12-bolts is the old school Eaton Positrac units like this one, Eaton Posi # 19556-010 They require some knowledge and tools since they are a complete carrier engineered stronger than the factory carriers. The part shown is for 3:73 up numerically like 4:11 and 4:56. The 3:42 and lower numerically is, 19587-010

[Tiger Joe]

I have a lunchbox locker in the rear of my 67. my truck isnt a daily driver, just a toy, so it really doesnt bother me. I only drive the truck in nice weather, so not concerned with rain.

my truck is a stick, so if my locker is giving me issues is a parking lot, i just hit the clutch pedal and it usually unlocks. but it definitely will clank and bang around under the truck in tight turns sometimes. One time I had it not lock on me when i tried to light up the rear tires.

if I was doing it over, I would spend the extra coin for a true posi

[steelhorse]

I put one of the kits that replace the spider gears in my Dodge truck and broke the pinion gear a year later(street driving) I found that it would bind and pop A LOT.