![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#5 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Montana
Posts: 3,696
|
Re: K1500 CV axle replacement
Quote:
I've never done the bottom ball joints, just the top one on one side which was really easy once I borrowed the right size metric box end wrench. With all the stuff in there you can only turn the nut about 1/8 turn at a time. The bottom joints are more involved they say ... My front differential leaks on both ends but since it's just a "ranch truck" I just add some oil once in a while. But the front axles were clanking whenever I tried to turn even just a little in 4wd, which was making it virtually useless for my purposes. About $150 for both axles plus my labor. I think my worn out axle was stiffer than the new one and just didn't want to thread the needle to get it out of there. The new one practically fell in. I'm no expert mechanic but since I just did the axle change I will try to answer any question you might have. The only thing I can suggest at this point is that if your 89 is a "road truck" that you want to keep in top notch shape, then replace just about every part you touch while you have it apart.
__________________
Current/past Chevy/GMC trucks: 1958 Chevy C-60; 1965 GMC C-50; 1965 Chevy C-10; 1971 Chevy K-10; 1973 Chevy K-20; 1976 GMC C-20; 1977 Chevy C-10 Suburban; 1980 Chevy K-10; 1989 Chevy K1500; 1991 GMC V1500 Suburban; 2016 Chevy K2500 HD Other vehicles: 1988 Jeep XJ; 2011 Toyota 4Runner |
|
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
|
|