Cab Repair - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nick2184 · 05-31-2004, 01:24 PM

I have to replace floor pans, supports, rockers, and corners. What should i do with the cab to make it easiest to work on? Lay it on it's back, firewall, leave it on the frame, or take it off and block it up higher? Any advice about anything welcome.

BobM · 05-31-2004, 04:20 PM

Mounted mine on a steel frame which I fabricated out of angle iron. Also have the frame on four inch metal casters for easy movement around the shop. The top of the steel frame is about 30 inches off the floor for reasonably good access to the underside of the cab.

*Gee_Emm* · 05-31-2004, 06:44 PM

Do one repair at a time, don't cut everything out at once. Also tack some bracing in to keep the cab true when it is needed ie. if you cut the floor out.

*dtlilly* · 05-31-2004, 08:05 PM

The guy doing my repair kept it mounted to the frame to prevent twisting and warpage. If you don't control movement, the doors and fenders will never line up again, and the cab will be scrap.

benscool1 · 05-31-2004, 08:08 PM

Yeah, I definitely suggest you brace it. I didn't, and now my cab is probably junk.

nick2184 · 05-31-2004, 08:49 PM

What would be the best way to attack the cab floor and support work that will need to be done. start with floor pans, then supports, then rockers, and then corners?

benscool1 · 05-31-2004, 10:15 PM

I agree, but when you do the mounts how will you know where to weld them in on the new floor pans?

*Gee_Emm* · 05-31-2004, 10:28 PM

At the end of the body support mounts there are flanges where they bolt to the pillars, you just have to center them. It will make sense when you go to do it.

benscool1 · 05-31-2004, 10:32 PM

I hope it does then because it doesn't now, lol. But I have to replace every single body panel as well. My cab was so rusted, when I removed the front end the cab settled and now the doors don't shut right. Do you think its even worth trying to fix w/patch panels?

*dtlilly* · 05-31-2004, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benscool1

......My cab was so rusted, when I removed the front end the cab settled and now the doors don't shut right. Do you think its even worth trying to fix w/patch panels?

Personally, I'd keep the vin plate and scrap the rest. Cabs are still available for a good price in the south or south west, and they will only need minimal repair.

benscool1 · 05-31-2004, 11:33 PM

I know they're readily available, the only thing is that I have no way to get to the south or southwest to get one. Sorry to nick2184, didn't mean to hijack your post.

05-31-2004, 01:24 PM	#1
nick2184 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: IL Posts: 48	Cab Repair I have to replace floor pans, supports, rockers, and corners. What should i do with the cab to make it easiest to work on? Lay it on it's back, firewall, leave it on the frame, or take it off and block it up higher? Any advice about anything welcome.

05-31-2004, 08:08 PM	#5
benscool1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Williamsfield, IL Posts: 781	Yeah, I definitely suggest you brace it. I didn't, and now my cab is probably junk. __________________ Ben 84 C10 Silverado 14 Silverado Z71

05-31-2004, 10:15 PM	#7
benscool1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Williamsfield, IL Posts: 781	I agree, but when you do the mounts how will you know where to weld them in on the new floor pans? __________________ Ben 84 C10 Silverado 14 Silverado Z71

05-31-2004, 10:32 PM	#9
benscool1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Williamsfield, IL Posts: 781	I hope it does then because it doesn't now, lol. But I have to replace every single body panel as well. My cab was so rusted, when I removed the front end the cab settled and now the doors don't shut right. Do you think its even worth trying to fix w/patch panels? __________________ Ben 84 C10 Silverado 14 Silverado Z71

05-31-2004, 11:33 PM	#11
benscool1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Williamsfield, IL Posts: 781	I know they're readily available, the only thing is that I have no way to get to the south or southwest to get one. Sorry to nick2184, didn't mean to hijack your post. __________________ Ben 84 C10 Silverado 14 Silverado Z71

05-31-2004, 04:20 PM	#2
BobM Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Posts: 73	Mounted mine on a steel frame which I fabricated out of angle iron. Also have the frame on four inch metal casters for easy movement around the shop. The top of the steel frame is about 30 inches off the floor for reasonably good access to the underside of the cab.

05-31-2004, 06:44 PM	#3
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	Do one repair at a time, don't cut everything out at once. Also tack some bracing in to keep the cab true when it is needed ie. if you cut the floor out.

05-31-2004, 08:05 PM	#4
dtlilly Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field Posts: 5,597	The guy doing my repair kept it mounted to the frame to prevent twisting and warpage. If you don't control movement, the doors and fenders will never line up again, and the cab will be scrap.

05-31-2004, 08:49 PM	#6
nick2184 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: IL Posts: 48	What would be the best way to attack the cab floor and support work that will need to be done. start with floor pans, then supports, then rockers, and then corners?

05-31-2004, 10:28 PM	#8
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 4,002	At the end of the body support mounts there are flanges where they bolt to the pillars, you just have to center them. It will make sense when you go to do it.



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