47-55.1 1948 5 window with 125" wheelbase

[Jedema]

Well, I have a 1948 Chevy 5 window... and in my usual vigor bought an S10 frame for it. I knew that since it was a short bed S10 I'd have to move the rear axle back. Well, what I didn't take into account was that the truck I have has a 125" wheelbase.

It became very apparent when I pushed the frame up to the old girl... 116" is a bit different than 125"..

So, I'm looking for creative solutions. Has anybody seen any build threads that deal with this particular issue? I could probably move the wheels back further, I could shorten the bed... I could scrap the whole frame and get an extended wheelbase frame LOL..

Just looking for the best way to deal with that.

Thanks

[Jedema]

I should also say That I like the look of the truck as it is... ideally I’d leave the old girl as unadulterated as possible... however that might not be an option...

[mongocanfly]

Unless you have frame issues the factory frame will be fine...it can be upgraded as you go...or find a short bed for it and use the s10

[mr48chev]

There is no requirement that you have to put a frame from a worn out junk S10 under one of these trucks even though the guys down at the spit and whittle club think that is the only way to do it.

If you like the long bed I'd either sell that S 10 frame and pick up an extended cab frame although the extended cab wheelbase is 122.9 so you still have to find 2-1/2 inches in wheelbase with it. Still maybe someone on here within a couple hour drive has and extended cab donor and wants to run the short bed box and fenders on his AD and is more than willing to swap.

Or just bag he S-10 Idea sell the frame and go another direction on the front suspension. Plenty of MII kits or a Jag XJ front end is stout and the perfect width.

This is on Brandon Thompson's truck here on the board. The great thing about Jag is there is no sheet metal cutting or trimming any place. The steering might be a challenge with some exhaust setups but other than that it is pretty slick.


This is on someone's GMC frame that I snagged for my inspiration file


This is my Jag crossmember when I was doing a wms to wms comparison with an AD axle.


That's just one idea that might work.

[Matt_50]

What's the plan for It? Weekend driver, daily?

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

check code504.com they have frame lengthening and reducing kits available. might be the right piece to extend your s10 frame out.

[joedoh]

do you want a longbed AD truck? its easy enough to shorten a long bed and aprons, or find a shortbed and aprons.

Originally Posted by Matt_50

What's the plan for It? Weekend driver, daily?

this is the question.

followed by: do you have the room to take two trucks apart, I mean really apart? do you have the tools, welders grinders saws files compressor air tools? do you have the wherewithal or at least the perseverance to see this project through?

what is your budget? are you going with an s10 because of a cost savings? most of the ways people can save money with an s10 swap, they dont. I have done 6, and I use every part of the "buffalo" that I can, brake system, fuel tank and fuel system, hvac system, wiring, engine, trans, steering column, pedals and mounts. I build my own mounts and reuse the S10 bushings. it works out really well for me. but most guys will buy an s10 frame, then buy a pedal setup, a brake setup, find a motor and trans from something else, a bare wiring harness. their money doesnt exactly linger in their wallets doing it this way. guys will suggest MII and those are fine, but keep in mind that you will need everything else still, rear axle, springs, brake system, fuel system, drivetrain, literally all a MII gives you is a front suspension, and you still have to weld (or bolt) it in before you even have that.

so answer the questions. what are your goals? what is your shop capable of room and tools and skill wise? what money can you spend?

lots of guys have strong opinions about using the stock frame, the trucks I start with are barely worth crushing and dont have matching parts anyway, so I have never had one with a stock frame worth a damn. I am not building show trucks, I am building easy drivers that can go 1000 miles on the highway in safety and comfort, with fuel injection and cruise control and air conditioning and a quiet ride. I stick to my guidelines without a lot of "while I am in there" shining of lock washers. The guys who buy the trucks I build are looking for something they can drive every day, in any weather, and can leave outside or even haul a load of mulch with. I spend up on safety and details, I dont on options besides wheels.

there are guys that are happier with less, banging around on a stock seat covered with a mexi blanket with no wipers nor even a heater. there are guys that want much more, LS LM LQ swaps with turbos and vintage air setups and baseball glove leather interiors. but here is the thing I have learned, these guys who like less or like more, most havent finished anything in 20 years and wont in another 20. they will collect parts like its a saturday hobby but work on the truck like its a prison sentence.

[Jesse Z]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

There is no requirement that you have to put a frame from a worn out junk S10 under one of these trucks

Yes, it is now the law.

[Matt_50]

Well said joedoh.

Tell us the current condition of the truck too.

[Jedema]

Very good questions. What I want is something that I’m comfortable taking down the highway during the summer. Daily summer vehicle.

I already had the S10 frame. Well, I bought the S10 frame already stripped. $250 for it. Had an LS that I wanted to throw in it as well.

The up front costs on IFS along with part replacement sort of forced me into this route. There isn’t really a budget set for this truck other than to not take too many large chunks of cash at once LOL. It’s a slow go that I want to work on with my kids.

[Jedema]

As far as the condition of the 48... it’s together, it’s got rust in all of the usual places. I really want to keep it looking like it does currently. And yes. I do like the long bed look. I just don’t see that many of them like that around here. The frame on the existing truck isn't actually all that bad. Somebody did a bit of hacking at it in the engine bay, but that can be fixed. No major rust, no major modifications. Boxing it in and it should be ok. I have the 4.8 LS right now. it has a baby cam in it, but I doubt that I will ever want to make it more than that. I just want it to go down the road well and be comfortable enough (and safe enough) that my family wants to ride in it... (I had a 72 CJ5 with a 350 sbc... nobody wanted to ride in that so I sold it.)

I’ll check out Code504 and see if they have anything, otherwise OG frame it is because I was lucky to find a pre-stripped S10 frame. Even if I were to take the whole thing to the scrap yard, that won't be so bad. I sold the engine and transmission from the S10 frame already so that offset most of what I had into it. Finding an already stripped extended S10 frame will be more difficult... and then the incidental costs of all the other stuff. Ugh. Upfront cost savings, sure... but I am really seeing the advantages to a reset lol.

I'm just working out of my two stall garage. I have tons of tools, but in this game, there is always that other tool to make the job easier.

JoeDoh, you are absolutely correct. I want to do this in stages. The first stage is getting it on the road. After that, well we shall see. As I mentioned in my previous post, I don't have a max budget, its more of a keep me busy project LOL.

[dsraven]

if using the s10 frame and it is too short, look behind the frame drop around where your foot would sit if there were a cab on it. there is a spot where the front meets the back and guys cut the welds and slip one side into or out of the other. maybe you can just "remake" the rear half with rectangular tubing so it is long enough for the longbox? keep your eye out for a longer s10 that you can get the rear part or the whole frame from? meanwhile you can still fab up the mounts etc and be ready.
how about a wrecker that would possibly sell the rear section of the frame, dissassembled properly, without the diff, springs, fuel tank etc etc. those parts are the money for the wrecker anyway. they would likely just be scrapping the frames in the crusher when the money parts are sold. might be worth a phone call at least so you know.

[Jedema]

Guys, I honestly really appreciate this information. I've seen so many threads where people were getting bashed and whatnot. I really love the difference of opinions because it gives me something to consider as I ponder how to un-screw this pooch LOL. The more I think about it the more I lean towards an IFS. It honestly was the way I wanted to go from the beginning, but the S10 frame was a quick and easy up front purchase... However, as pointed out, it was just a frame and power train. No pedals, no anything else so the cost savings wouldn't have been there.

Keep the ideas coming! Either way, I'm spending money so I would love to hear them all.

Now, let me mention the thought process behind this. I want to do this in stages.

1 get it going down the road full patina.
2 get it going down the road better and maybe paint
3 Diesel. I'd love to throw a baby diesel in there someday down the road.

[dsraven]

check the pedals from a trailblazer or envoy. I can get a pic for you if interested. there is a big panel that bolts to the firewall and houses the pedals on the inside, along with the accel pedal and drive by wire stuff, then on the outside there is a brake booster and master cylinder. the panel is recessed outward into the engine bay slightly so maybe a bit more room for the feet. if you got the whole floor and partial firewall you would have an instant floor with a bump for the trans and also a console, cable operated shifter and park brake in the middle the steering column is for a rack and pinion behind the axle so that may not work unless that is your plan. could be modified though.
if going diesel at some point make sure to have a good stout front end and a modifiable spring set.
just a thought. there are lots of those trailblazers kicking around so would possibly be cheap. the engine is offset to the pass side slightly so factor that in if proceeding down that road. there are a few guys doing trailblazer frame swaps but track width is too wide for the AD trucks I think.

[mr48chev]

Joedoe made the most valid point on the plusses and minuses using an S-10 frame under these trucks I have seen and he is one of the champions of the S-10 swap.

Guys usually start wanting to do an S-10 swap because they hear that they are the cheap way to go.

They are somewhat cheap if you do like grandma did the thanksgiving turkey and use every usable piece as he does and render down the bones to get the last bit of broth.

They are not cheap if you pay a premium for an S-10 that you drive home. Then pay 1500 $$ plus for a code 504 swap kit then spend 500 rebuilding the worn out front suspension and or bagging it as many guys do along with taking out the rear suspension replacing the axle and putting in a 4 link and bags. I have and Joe has see guys with right around 4000 bucks in an S-10 frame swap. That is just the fame swap to have a roller without an engine or trans.

I'd sit back and study my options and come up with a plan that works for the budget I have available and makes that safe comfortable truck when you are done.

[Jedema]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Joedoe made the most valid point on the plusses and minuses using an S-10 frame under these trucks I have seen and he is one of the champions of the S-10 swap.

Guys usually start wanting to do an S-10 swap because they hear that they are the cheap way to go.

They are somewhat cheap if you do like grandma did the thanksgiving turkey and use every usable piece as he does and render down the bones to get the last bit of broth.

They are not cheap if you pay a premium for an S-10 that you drive home. Then pay 1500 $$ plus for a code 504 swap kit then spend 500 rebuilding the worn out front suspension and or bagging it as many guys do along with taking out the rear suspension replacing the axle and putting in a 4 link and bags. I have and Joe has see guys with right around 4000 bucks in an S-10 frame swap. That is just the fame swap to have a roller without an engine or trans.

I'd sit back and study my options and come up with a plan that works for the budget I have available and makes that safe comfortable truck when you are done.

Absolutely. that is why I'm digging these views. I originally bit on the S10 frame because it was already stripped down, straight, and came with the engine and trans for $250. Yes, the suspension is toast in the front. I already don't have a lot of the accessories that help with this process. Pedals and such.

I sold the Engine and Trans for $100 to get them out of my garage. So I'm into the frame for $150 currently. Not horrible to start with, but as Joe says, I don't have the other stuff for it so that is going to quickly offset the cheap starting point.

So, for $150 I don't feel like I'm going to be losing anything too far by starting over lol.

[dsraven]

here are some pics of that pedal assy and the rest of the brake system that connects. maybe somebody can get some use out of it.

[dsraven]

steering column also bolts to that set up, if anybody is interested.

[dsraven]

jag setup looks pretty sweet. no need to mess around with fitting and finishing on the frame swap either. looks like a rear mount rack. out of the way for exhaust? nothing like using the stock frame. could install a nice irs in the rear or just go with a solid axle out back. maybe a ford 8.8 from an explorer with irs, never seen one of those under a truck yet. anybody else?

[mr48chev]

I'd say if you started over you could sell the rolling S-10 frame for what you paid for it with engine and trans.

If Industrial Chassis hadn't flaked out and decided that they didn't want to deal with mail order stuff their Dakota based crossmember would have been the perfect setup. Well under 1000 total for a front end with rack and pinion that you could put 12 inch brakes on after buying his crossmember and the Dakota pieces. I've got all the Dakota front end pieces out here off a 92 that I bought but poked around too long on the crossmember.