New Compressor arrived today

[franken]

Well, my opinion is the up down air line design is no bueno and prefer a horizontal top in back and forth design. This means air has to be in the air tank, get trapped at the end by a dryer or go out in the air. That's exactly 2 places to purge water. Each horizontal run in my garage is 20' so I also have room to grow the system.
You need to blow off a little air from the bottom after running the compressor to get rid of condensation in the tank. This is universal.
An up down system means you need to blast those valves out everytime the compressor is used and you're done using it for the day and the air has cooled (or tomorow). I promise some black water will shoot out if you ever forget. Nasty.
Poor design.
For a 2 car garage you don't need a bunch of drops so it makes sense to do as I have and have a manifold at the end with multiple outlets. It's the same argument as above. If you have a horizontal overhead system with vertical drops, you have to purge each drop of water after the air has cooled each time the compressor runs.

[roll_the_dice]

I am open to this...that's why I ask questions...I will have an auto drain on the bottom of the tank...just easy to have it do it for me.

Do you have a picture of your set up?

[franken]

No pics. I don't have a pic hosting site account and they're too big to post. You can PM an email address and I can send the dinosaur way tho.
I have a custom (not fancy or expensive) true 3/4" flex line from the tank to the ceiling. That means the ID of the fittings is 3/4". Then 20' pipe with a minimal drop with a union. The same back and forth until I drop into the last horizontal end with another union where I have the filter, dryer, regulator and multiple air outlets. Simple cheap effective.
Auto-drains tend to clog so you have to check; same as manually cracking a ball valve. Barf. I run a L of the bottom of the tank out to the edge, then valve, then reverse back a bit and down. Ok, I'm cheap and lazy.
You just need to crack the valve to drain the water at the bottom of the tank. I used to superstitiously drain the air from the tank but eventually realized that wasn't needed. Sort of like using flare wrenches on bleeder screws. Lol

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by franken

No pics. I don't have a pic hosting site account and they're too big to post. You can PM an email address and I can send the dinosaur way tho.
I have a custom (not fancy or expensive) true 3/4" flex line from the tank to the ceiling. That means the ID of the fittings is 3/4". Then 20' pipe with a minimal drop with a union. The same back and forth until I drop into the last horizontal end with another union where I have the filter, dryer, regulator and multiple air outlets. Simple cheap effective.
Auto-drains tend to clog so you have to check; same as manually cracking a ball valve. Barf. I run a L of the bottom of the tank out to the edge, then valve, then reverse back a bit and down. Ok, I'm cheap and lazy.
You just need to crack the valve to drain the water at the bottom of the tank. I used to superstitiously drain the air from the tank but eventually realized that wasn't needed. Sort of like using flare wrenches on bleeder screws. Lol

Thanks, PM sent

[franken]

Pics emailed
BTW, here's a link to SB and apparently my compressor is their bead and butter size. http://www.saylor-beall.com Mine is as shown down to the red tag and stickers, but obviously mine's many years old.

https://www.compressorworld.com/5-hp...BoCfc4QAvD_BwE

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by franken

Pics emailed
BTW, here's a link to SB and apparently my compressor is their bead and butter size. http://www.saylor-beall.com Mine is as shown down to the red tag and stickers, but obviously mine's many years old.

https://www.compressorworld.com/5-hp...BoCfc4QAvD_BwE

Thanks for the pics Kevin! I might just put an aftercooler on my compressor and be done with it. I also found a used refrigerated air dryer fairly cheap...hmmm

I really liked the SB compressors, but was just out of my price range.

[roll_the_dice]

I am thinking of doing something similar to this (found it at garage journal here)... 50 feet of 3/4" coiled copper. I will feed it at the top...have a T at the bottom with a drip/drain leg then off to the tools and shed out back. The coil will take up much less room than 50+ feet of copper along the walls...and I could mount a fan to blow on the coil if I so desired. Thoughts?

[roll_the_dice]

So I have been debating and researching, even looking for a "cheap" used refrigerated air dryer. Aftercoolers go between the compressor and tank. What is being suggested here is the copper pipe whether it be run vertical with many drains or horizontal with one drain seems to be the consensus. Here is the question I have...instead of running copper pipe on the wall as the cooler...why couldn't I mount a aftercooler (condensor/radiator) after the tank and before my plumbing with a drain? Wouldn't that give the same effect with minimal space taken?

[B. W.]

I have seen guys do what you have on the wall ( coiled copper) but put it in a pony fridge. I have no first hand knowledge of how well that works but it would be fairly cheap.

I'm plumbing a home compressor now & like your coil idea. I have a pony fridge not being used, I might try it.

BTW, nice compressor. I had a shop with 2 15 hp champions & commercial dryers, we could't kill em! They were USA made back then, I hope they still are.

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I have seen guys do what you have on the wall ( coiled copper) but put it in a pony fridge. I have no first hand knowledge of how well that works but it would be fairly cheap.

I'm plumbing a home compressor now & like your coil idea. I have a pony fridge not being used, I might try it.

BTW, nice compressor. I had a shop with 2 15 hp champions & commercial dryers, we could't kill em! They were USA made back then, I hope they still are.

Thanks, I love this compressor so far. I haven't plumbed mine yet...just been too busy. I need to get it done so I can get it plumbed in the backyard in my shed where my blast cabinet is.

[roll_the_dice]

I am finally getting around to buying an auto tank drain. I want to buy one and power it through my magnetic started so it only runs when the compressor is running. I know enough electrical to follow directions...so does anyone know how to wire the drain valve to the magnetic starter? This is a 230v system so I will be buying a 230v auto drain. I can provide pictures of my magnetic starter if necessary.

Would I connect the auto drain to the same connections at the magnetic starter that the motor is connected to? I only want the drain to run when the motor is running. Thanks

[mongocanfly]

i wouldnt think youd want to have the drain wired to the motor circuit...
if the motor is running the drain would be open all the time....it only takes a few seconds to drain mine...and iuonly do it once every now and then...even with our humididity..
i would by a timer and have it wired seperate...you could have it open whenever you wanted...0nce a day ,once a week,every other day and so forth...it could run on 110...no need for it to be on 220...
it might be im not understanding what your wanting to do though...

[franken]

As mongo says, the tanks drain only needs to be open for a few seconds to blow out water. Water will condense in the tank long after the compressor use has stopped. The tank drain needs to be cycled after the air has cooled, and before the compressor is used.

[roll_the_dice]

Thanks guys...I am going to go with a champion auto drain...

On another note, I think I am going to use the rapidair system. The outlet of my compressor is 1/2". Do you think I should use the 1/2" or 3/4" rapidair system? Either way, it will be reduced to 3/8" at the tool if it matter. Thanks

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

I am thinking of doing something similar to this (found it at garage journal here)... 50 feet of 3/4" coiled copper. I will feed it at the top...have a T at the bottom with a drip/drain leg then off to the tools and shed out back. The coil will take up much less room than 50+ feet of copper along the walls...and I could mount a fan to blow on the coil if I so desired. Thoughts?

I made something similar but used a 10 gallon cooler. I can either use just cold water or add Ice to it. Works well and it was left over old homebrew equipment. Its portable too so I can use it outside to sandblast.