55.2-59 327 opinions/suggestions

[smoking59]

I am replacing my 350 in my 59. Found a good deal on a short block 327 bored .30 over with votec heads and a RV cam. Will this be a good fit, HP ect. and will my 700r4 bolt up? What size carb would be a good choice?

TIA

[Ironworking]

Originally Posted by smoking59

I am replacing my 350 in my 59. Found a good deal on a short block 327 bored .30 over with votec heads and a RV cam. Will this be a good fit and will my 700r4 bolt up? What size carb would be a good choice?

TIA

It should bolt up. 350, 327 & 283 all had the same bolt pattens, unless i have gotten too old to remember. Personally, i would not purchase anything except stock engines. A couple of my friends an i had this discussion the other day. Ever notice how long a stock engine will last compared to a re-built engine? Stock comes in at 300K miles. Rebuilt may make 100K at best.

[59chev]

283, 305, 327, and 350 are all the same externally. the 700r4 should will bolt right up. I have a 700r4 mocked up behind my 327. The only thing you may need is a flexplate that fits a 2 piece rear main seal engine depending if your 350 was a one piece or 2 piece rear main.

[smoking59]

your points are well taken!

[mr48chev]

I've had two 327's one was in a 67 C-10 one was in a 57 Chevy panel and had an Engle cam, 12.5 Jahns pistons and 202 heads and came with a Corvette 2-4 intake and wcfb carbs. That bugger was one strong running truck when i got it all sorted out.

Neither one of the two ever got any gas mileage and I don't think either one would get 10 out on the road at the 55 mph speed limit we had then.

The only reason I can see for building a 327 over a 350 now outside of having the correct engine for a stock restoration is the potential Bubba factor points over a 350 in the same truck. You would be looking at maybe a 25% higher cost for same brand same quality parts for the 327.

An already freshly redone 327 short block or long block isn't going to cost any more than any other small block because the added expense pieces are inside. That being pistons and bearings that they charge more for simply because they don't make and sell anywhere near as many as they do for the 350. Too many guys get caught up in the "mystique" of the 327 and pay too much of a premium though.

As others said, as long as it has the correct vibration damper the only issue is getting the correct flex plate and maybe the correct accessory brackets as 350 brackets won't fit on the correct 327 heads as they don't have pads or holes for mounting the alternator, AC or power steering depending on what you have on your truck now.

[smoking59]

Well that is what I wanted to hear. I have been straddling the fence on whether to take the plunge on the 327. I have been looking at engines everywhere that is how I ran across the 327. While I have you on the horn your opinion on ATK and Power Torque engines? Or what do you suggest as an not so stock (more hp) replacement?

[mr48chev]

I'm going to assume that the guy wants a premium for the 327 simply because it is a 327 then and leave it at that.
It look like a number of outfits including Summit sell the ATK rebuilt long blocks.

Unless there is something wrong with it that causes it to not be rebuildable I'd check on having the 350 you have redone. Labor costs might not be as high in Ky as some parts of the country. You are under 100 miles from Louisville and there should be some top rate shops there. I'd think that in that part of the country there a lot of shops that can build a strong running small block for a friendly price.

The other option might be a GM crate motor from the source that gives the best deal and that might include going though Amazon if you have prime. The going rate on their 290 hp 350 seems to be 2695 right now and that is probably their most popular crate 350 for street rods and early rigs.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by smoking59

Found a good deal on a short block 327 bored .30 over with votec heads and a RV cam.

i might be more skeptical than the next guy, but unless I saw the build sheet from a reputable shop I would probably just let it go. too many guys put together a motor in their garage, even if they tank it and bore it, I still dont trust it.

its like paint. guys are really talented with paint when they have all the shops resources to do the work, less so in their own garages. when I hear a guy say he doesnt want to pay for a paint job, his neighbor offered to do it in his garage, I just smile. same way with motor work. how cheap will it have to be to find out later he didnt replace the oil pump because it was an extra 37 dollars and your "fresh motor" has a rod knock?

I am just spitballing. do what you like.

[smoking59]

Thanks to you and Mr. 48, really good advice, especially about the garage build.