Steering arm removal

[sweetk30]

best i ever got was pure luck otherwise i had better luck pulling the hub/rotor and backing plate and hammer the side of the arm with a 4lb mini hammer .

[Richard]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

best i ever got was pure luck otherwise i had better luck pulling the hub/rotor and backing plate and hammer the side of the arm with a 4lb mini hammer .

I have removed quite few stock and raised arms and this is what I found works best. A BFH on the arm right next to the studs. Had one axle with a block under the arm and the studs sheared off flush with the top of the knuckle, luckily right in my driveway (purchased truck this way, would not recommend). That was fun getting those pieces out! BTW my favorite penetrating oil is now WD40 rust release formula. I have had great success with it. Even exhaust bolts seem to come loose easily after spraying/soaking for several days in a row.

[mygmctruck1]

well I just had to remove mine on 68 K1500 . I tried the socket trick no luck , soaked the cone washers with every thing I had . Took some advice off the site and used a screw driver and drove the washer in a circle back and forth to loosen it up. took a bit but that's what worked for me.
That was one part of the equation , the arm was still stuck on the threads ( rust ! ) I had to drive a screw driver into the joint to start separating the arm from the knuckle , then move up to a wider wedge ,etc . got it off but in the process , ruined 2 of the thin metal shims. There are 6 total.

Not sure why 6 but there has to be a reason , each shim is thicker than paper but thinner than a file folder. Just how important are they ?

Anyone know about these things ?

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by mygmctruck1

well I just had to remove mine on 68 K1500 . I tried the socket trick no luck , soaked the cone washers with every thing I had . Took some advice off the site and used a screw driver and drove the washer in a circle back and forth to loosen it up. took a bit but that's what worked for me.
That was one part of the equation , the arm was still stuck on the threads ( rust ! ) I had to drive a screw driver into the joint to start separating the arm from the knuckle , then move up to a wider wedge ,etc . got it off but in the process , ruined 2 of the thin metal shims. There are 6 total.

Not sure why 6 but there has to be a reason , each shim is thicker than paper but thinner than a file folder. Just how important are they ?

Anyone know about these things ?

They are very important. That is how you preload the bearings. Check out the 4WD section of the factory manual. Not sure what it says for your year, but the manual for the 60-66 trucks shows two ways to set the preload, depending on if you have the knuckle apart or not, as I recall. Anyway, if you read that part it all makes sense.
Fortunately you can still get the shims at Torque King 4x4. Great people to know for those of us with an old truck addiction.
Good luck with the project,
Tom

[mygmctruck1]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

They are very important. That is how you preload the bearings. Check out the 4WD section of the factory manual. Not sure what it says for your year, but the manual for the 60-66 trucks shows two ways to set the preload, depending on if you have the knuckle apart or not, as I recall. Anyway, if you read that part it all makes sense.
Fortunately you can still get the shims at Torque King 4x4. Great people to know for those of us with an old truck addiction.
Good luck with the project,
Tom

Thanks , who would have thought .