Best Attachment points to remove a 292?

[Bushman66]

OK, i spent about 40 minutes puzzling over where to attach the leveler bolts for the hoist to get the 292 out of the engine compartment. I plan to remove the grill and core support, and remove the bell housing with the engine and leave the transmission in the truck supported by a transmission jack.

I have one of those crank levelers but no idea where to attach the 4 points (or 2 as an option). I was thinking about removing the 4 corner head bolts, and attaching there using longer grade 8 bolts?

The accessory holes on the front passenger side of the head and the exhaust/intake bolt hole on the back drivers side is an option, but those are only 3/8" bolts. Seems borderline sketchy to lift with 2 bolts, with an engine this heavy.

Thoughts?

[SkinnyG]

I pulled the 235 and SM420 out using one of the intake/exhaust manifold bolts around cylinder #5 and a coil mounting bolt on the passenger side. It was perfectly balanced coming out of the frame.

You don't really need the leveler. They are handy when pulling a motor with trans, so you can change the balance point to get the trans in/out.

You don't really need 4 points. Just eyeball where you think the center of balance is going to be. You'll know pretty quick if you got it wrong.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The accessory holes on the front passenger side of the head and the exhaust/intake bolt hole on the back drivers side is an option, but those are only 3/8" bolts. Seems borderline sketchy to lift with 2 bolts, with an engine this heavy.

Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
I have pulled hundreds of them with 3/8 bolts like you said. You don't really need to pull the bell housing. If you leave it in it will hold the trans. You can just put a stand under it to keep the back end from dropping.
George

[rws1012]

I pulled the 250 and 3 sp. trans out of my 66 truck with front clip off. I went and bought 2 new head bolts 1/2 inch longer than the originals. Pulled the back right and front left head bolts Used the longer bolts with a leveler. Came right out without any problem. Did it by myself. good luck. Keep your toes out of the way. LOL!!!

[Bushman66]

OK, thanks guys. I'll probably do the 3/8 grade 8 bolts on the exhaust side and on an accessory hole on the passenger side and leave the bell housing in. Looking closer at it, that is the mounting point for the transmission so that will make it easier for sure, rather than messing with the transmission jack under the truck as I move it around.

[Bushman66]

Update: Got everything removed today (grille and front radiator core support) and removed the 6 bell housing bolts and starter. Everything disconnected. Should be good to go for a (reasonably) straight pull forward. Hopefully it won't be a problem to align the input shaft with the (new) clutch disc/pressure plate and pilot bushing when I get ready to install the 350. I've found it's usually hit or miss, it goes right in, or you spend hours fiddling with it.

[SkinnyG]

Most newer clutch kits come with an alignment tool that mimics the input shaft with splines. Failing that, there are "universal" kits that are an interesting challenge to line everything up with.

[Bushman66]

Used an exhaust hole and the accessory hole on the passenger front of the head with a chain. Worked like a champ, not counting the cheapass Harbor Freight Chinese steel cherry picker beam bending like a cheap taco...had to cut off the bent portion with a sawzall and redrill the locating pin hole.