The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1947 - 1959 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-21-2019, 05:49 PM   #1
joedoh
Senior Member
 
joedoh's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Doodah Kansas
Posts: 7,774
Re: Seat frame removal. How is it connected?

bare floor... as in flat floor? mongos help will get the bottom of the seat frame out, but the riser will still be spot welded to the floor. if thats what you are after there ya go.

to get the riser out you can use a spot weld remover on the flange that is bent and welded to the floor. what I normally do though is use a long bimetal sawzall blade and cut it off flush, or close to flush, and anything that isnt flush I pound flat, job done. I start the cut in the front corners and pull back to the rear brace, then across the front, then down at the rear brace. the sliders bolt to the rear brace with two nuts, and then you can just slide it all out. dont take out the rear brace if you can avoid it, its a nice stiffener and doesnt get in the way of new seat sliders.
__________________
the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation


if there is a problem, I can have it.

new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393
joedoh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2019, 09:56 AM   #2
gigamanx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Hershey, PA
Posts: 1,005
Re: Seat frame removal. How is it connected?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
bare floor... as in flat floor? mongos help will get the bottom of the seat frame out, but the riser will still be spot welded to the floor. if thats what you are after there ya go.

to get the riser out you can use a spot weld remover on the flange that is bent and welded to the floor. what I normally do though is use a long bimetal sawzall blade and cut it off flush, or close to flush, and anything that isnt flush I pound flat, job done. I start the cut in the front corners and pull back to the rear brace, then across the front, then down at the rear brace. the sliders bolt to the rear brace with two nuts, and then you can just slide it all out. dont take out the rear brace if you can avoid it, its a nice stiffener and doesnt get in the way of new seat sliders.
I think you guys have the right idea after pondering it last night...The circled item is what I'm trying to remove so I can start working on new seat mounts for my F150 donor seat.



This is with a flat floor and I seem to see a lot of pictures of those. Maybe people are replacing their floor panels and I thought it was easier.



I'm afraid of trying to drill out spot welds and drilling through the floor since my floor is pretty solid. May try the sawzall suggestion or get a cut off wheel in there
__________________
Current Build Thread 1930 Ford Model A Modern Twist: Ford Model A Rat Rod With a Modern Twist

Build Thread Phase 1 "The Swap": 1949 3100 with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!

Build Thread Phase 2 "The Drop": Beginner Build with Ambition gets Air Ride
gigamanx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2025 67-72chevytrucks.com