Need advice deciding to go ahead and lower the rear further

[Slowguy]

I used all the advice on here. For the front, I did drop spindles, cups in the lower control arms, and it looks like it’ll be really low. In the rear I did c notch, and lowering blocks. It looks like it’ll be fine but not as low as the front. I’m wondering now if I should go ahead and do these instead: http://pbfab.com/63-72-c10-bolt-in-level-3-step-notch

What I’m wondering is if I do that larger notch, will this necessitate changing the carrier bearing cross member? I haven’t ordered a custom driveshaft yet (which I will do soon) but I’m trying to decide just in case I want it lower in the near future with the larger notch (that might make my newly ordered driveshaft worthless)?

I’m not worried about raising the bed floor, I can just run around without a floor while I’m working on that anyway.

I actually was hoping to get enough done to make the trek down to waxahatchie in September but I think now I’d really be pushing it to get that to happen. I’m thinking a plane ticket will have to be my ride this year

[Slowguy]

no one?

[LuckyScott]

While I am not an expert, I think you should go with the bigger notch as you may want to go lower and too much clearance is better than not enough.
I don't think you have to move the crossmember for the center bearing, I think you just need to get a correct length driveshaft. You can always shorten a driveshaft later if needed.
By the way, Inland empire driveline sells a slider shaft that allows you to go lower without cutting the shaft. It has a slider that allows it to change length.
I don't work for them, but I have used the shaft on my lowered 72 suburban and it works great.

[cornerstone]

[Ironangel]

What he said!^^^ Need Pics!

[Slowguy]

Ok. I took the time to get a few. Here you are:

Rear all the way down:



Front driver down:


Front Driver at about 80 psi



Front pass down



front pass 80 psi

[Slowguy]

haha, whoops, that was worthless. I thought this was my post about the front upper control arms, yay or nay.

anyway, here is rear at about 60 psi. Hard to tell anything really without the cab and bed on, but cab is at the metal guy now. I should have it soon to set.

Next I want to set the accuair cvt on a piece of wood, and get it all calibrated before I get the cab back and mount it permanently. I'd like to see where "it" thinks the best calibrations are since it does it all automatically. Just have to install the level sensors.

[Madkidd007]

Keep in mind you have two main limiting factors no matter what you do. Front crossmember will lay before frame lays, also the trailing are crossmember will hit before laying frame. My thought would be measure how much gap from the frame to the axle tube, then get a drop block a 1/4” less than that. Now if you’re going with really large rubber and you want it on the ground, you probably will be needing to go with the big notch.

[bozly]

Just throwing out my experience. I went 5.5/7 drop and my rear end was shoving my driveshaft into the carrier bearing and causing it to squeal and 0 play in the trans yoke. I called a local driveshaft shop and clarified how they wanted me to measure for mine to be cut down. They shortened, replaced my carrier bearing, balanced, replaced all joints, and painted it black for $300.

What I am trying to say is that driveshaft should not be a concern. It is an easy fix that wont break the bank.

The other stuff seems to be covered as well.

[Madkidd007]

Or is it a 1 piece driveshaft and you’re worried about it hitting the top of the crossmember?

[Slowguy]

I don’t have the driveshaft yet. I think I’ll get a completely custom one made once I’ve decided I’m done with everything else. I’m guessing two piece with a carrier bearing is the way to go but I’m sure the driveshaft place should be able to tell me on the application for my truck. Right now I’m debating notching larger in the rear and possibly aftermarket upper ca’s in the front. Just don’t know for sure what I need or should do. My concern right now up front is either shimming out the upper ca’s to correct for camber -or- go with an aftermarket longer upper ca. And if I do get an aftermarket upper ca set for lowered trucks, do they adjust the arm to give a better caster position. Because, if that’s the case, I’m worried it may be too much considering I did the caster mod I found on this forum.

For the rear, I’m seriously considering do the bigger notch but if I then have to get different trailing arms, trailing arm crossmember or carrier crossmember, then I don’t think I want to deal with that right now.

But I guess my main question is; if I go with the larger rear frame notch, can I keep everything else stock, get my custom driveshaft made (either two piece or one piece), and raise the bed floor. If so, then I think I should probably just bite the bullet and do it.

[Slowguy]

Oh, and one other quick concern (you can’t really see it in my pic) is that I used a large blazer tank for rear fuel. It butts up to the cross support barely seen in the picture above by the bag of zip ties. I’m wondering if the larger notch will necessitate the removal or otherwise modification of the mounting of the tank I’ve already spent so much time on?